Pumping Cracks with Dale

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 103 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Jan 8, 2008 - 10:30am PT
I have that catalog here on my desk Steve.The intro from Yvon has him quoting Chiloe.

SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 8, 2008 - 10:45am PT
Tomcat
Can you upload/display it as Steve G did with his
article? (please, please) . . . :-)
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
Walleye- I would have to dig deep for the backside Gucci!

I posted that up elsewhere, but I have it all scanned so here ya go...But first a word from our sponsor!









Sure wish that my knees liked talus running as much as my noggin' do! Had to let go of the dryland skiing thing.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
Jan 8, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
Here is the "Yosemite hopeful-Dale Bard" image that Raydog mentioned. It is from Mountain 33 (March 1974.) [No photo credit given.]

The accompanying text says:
"Notable repeats include an outstanding series by Dale Bard who climbed Basket Case (third, all nuts) with Tim Harrison; Hot Line (second) with (Vern) Clevenger; Cream (fourth, all nuts) with Clevenger and Hourglass Left Side (fourth, all nuts) with Harrison and Werner Braun."

The reason I could grab this image so easily from a stack of 125+ Mountain magazines is it was inspirational to me in my youth and I remember it well. Somewhere I have a photo of myself lying in a Camp 4 fire pit in my white milkman pants and Chouinard Rugby Shirt after returning from a failed whack-n-dangle. The photo has the hand-written caption, "Yosemite hopeless.


edit: By the way, for those who do not have the privilege of owning one or having seen one, Dale is wearing he famous Dachstein sweater in this picture.
Tomcat

Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
Jan 8, 2008 - 12:13pm PT
Steve,did you get what you wanted?Be happy to scan my issue,but most of the binding is still intact and laying it flat might ruin it.
yo

climber
The Eye of the Snail
Jan 8, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
"Relax a little and it's right there..."

Simple and not so simple.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
I don't think the Chouinard folks had any idea that we would be cherishing their catalogs so many years later! Mine did in fact revert to unbound leaves for the cause. Never meant to last!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jan 8, 2008 - 08:27pm PT
RE:
" Here is the "Yosemite hopeful-Dale Bard" image that Raydog mentioned."

OMG dude - that is so awesome.

thank you

re:
"The reason I could grab this image so easily from a stack of 125+ Mountain magazines is it was inspirational to me in my youth and I remember it well."

yes!
amazing

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 8, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
http://www.climbaz.com/chouinard72/chouinard.html

I have my copy... and perhaps the next one too (with a color glossy of Ama Dablam on the cover)..

...and a 1985 one with Bachar on the cover soloing something in tub socks and Fires
WBraun

climber
Jan 8, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
Hey plastic man

That Dachstein sweater in the picture above Dale washed one night.

Then he put it in the drier on high heat and forgot about it.

He brings it into our room and shows me his sweater.

I never laugh so hard, the thing shrunk so small it could fit a Barbie doll.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Jan 8, 2008 - 08:38pm PT
I NEVER went to the crags w/ out leather side panels speedystitched on my EB's after that pic came out.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
Werner- Dale must have been crushed, that is too damn funny! I always lusted after one of those but being from Tucson.....
WBraun

climber
Jan 8, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
Yes Steve, it was true. He was crushed, he loved that sweater.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jan 9, 2008 - 12:50am PT
Is that Y.C. on Outer Limits?
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Jan 9, 2008 - 01:59am PT
Rockermike & and others interested in the W I D E

Young Strong Local in the middle of the summer......
http://fishproducts.com/movies/1096.mov

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 9, 2008 - 03:15am PT
Tom,

> Is that Y.C. on Outer Limits?


Yes, on p2. The infamous shot with the jumars on his left hip....
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 9, 2008 - 03:21am PT
Tom- yes

Sooze. 'course he fell, he faced the wrong way!

Werner, I have one of those sweaters within 20' of me at this moment. I never put it in the dryer but still it seems to have shrunk in the last 30 yrs
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jan 9, 2008 - 04:45am PT
hey there... say, this was very interesting, guys...... the "rock-crack-holds" and such... great shared stuff... thanks... gives me an idea all the more of what all you climbers do... i think the crack climbing is really intriquing..
SteveW

Trad climber
Denver, CO
Jan 9, 2008 - 08:41am PT
Steve G--thanks for loading that up. Mucho apreciated.
Tomcat--Steve G loaded it up-no need for you to try to
scan it, but I appreciate your checking!
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Jan 9, 2008 - 09:20am PT
Great Thread, thanks!

As an eager adolescent cragster I soaked up every word and image and dog eared all these catalog and magazine classics on the BART train to school, or at my mountain shop job after. Running Talus continues to inspire, (I have always considered it somewhat of my "third sport"), as does everything I read from Doug Robinson back then.

Soon after the mountain mag came out with the "hopeful pic", I met Dale and Werner at Short Circuit. Biggest breakthrough moment I ever had in climbing technique was a gift of instruction from Dale, who after watching this little 8th grader gamely lie-backing his way 2/3s up the splitter, said, "come here kid", and thoroughly schooled me in the art of the handjam.

I still shudder to remember leading the first pitch of Reeds and Bishops Terrace prior to this with only liebacking and gastoning in my skill set.

Peter
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