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Crag
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
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Please excuse the double posting I thought that some might miss reading the TR with it buried in an old thread.
A 24 year climbing odyssey finally becomes complete!
Below is a Trip Report of sorts. I hope that you will enjoy reading it and also understand the context in which it was written.
Valley 1st time & only one day: Tuolumne Meadows Yosemite NP Fairview Dome Regular Route 5.9
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The view from the top of Fairview Dome was absolutely spectacular, beyond my expectations. Turning and looking back towards the meadow and then spinning around 180 degrees and looking at “DAFF Dome” and beyond had me dizzy.
How could I have stayed away from such a place for so long and call myself a climber? I felt inadequate which reinforced my great admiration for the first accent team Mr. Reed & the young master Mr. Pratt, 1958. I have often been amazed at the pure creative vision that the modern climbing forefathers possessed when looking upwards to see what was possible. Even then most of their adventures were into the unknown. Constantly creating new levels of what was possible, not only with their meager equipment but with their mental and physical strengths.
I had purposefully decided not to lead any portions of the climb. The rock climbing was to be secondary, the movement of the stone was to take a back seat to the feast that was unfolding before my eyes, even though my new found partner – friend, encouraged me to take the lead once a level of comfort was reached on both our parts.
I decide not to, adhering to a promise I had made to my family. Some had thoughts of flying back east without their father. Also, not knowing when I could ever get back I wanted to adsorb as much as possible including the smallest details. A blast of herbal sage odder wafted into my nose was profound enough to stop me dead in my tracks. Somewhere higher up on the dome as the climbing begins to ease off you find ledges with plants sprouting out of the cracks, little purple flowers and yes, sage. I was ready to grill a piece of salmon I was so inspired.
I have no regrets either, assuming the “Belay Bob” role was fine. First time in Yosemite, first real alpine rock route - I figured the cautious approach was best. Saving me from the guttural pains of anxiety and fear of climbing failure that usually accompany me when climbing a new route was Mr. Karl Baba. We have been communicating with each other for years via the many different forms over the internet. Although I doubted he had remembered any of our transactions I think my odd behavior when first spying the decent will be something he will remember.
The 2nd/3rd class walk off had me laughing loudly like a little boy. I could not comprehend what I was looking at, again absolutely spectacular. A long flowing downhill apron of motionless granite – where is a skateboard when you need one? I was fascinated with the decent procedure much akin to the accent of looking for knobs and friction points.
I pondered the glacial and tectonic forces that shaped this landscape and I was lost in my comprehension of the magnitude of it all. Karl suggested I stop and take my time to revel in the joy of my confusion. Although there was a bit of scary moment when I attempted to cross through a section that was a bit gritty, bad visions of trundling down the descent entered my mind; I gingerly and quickly made a traverse away from the little ball bearings and back to the knobs.
The presence of snow amongst the granite spires and domes along with the Velvia brilliance of the blue skis contrasted against the foreground of the plush green meadow below is forever etched into my mind. Although there have not been many, it was the best summit reward I’ve ever experienced.
No happy summit dance or posturing for the camera just a rich deep reward of the panoramic view. Oddly enough the 2 or 3 parties that were below us never caught up not even on the summit where we spent a solid 30 – 45 minutes admiring the 360 degree view. I didn’t want to go down. I wanted to be magically transported to the next climb and so on and so on. I purposefully forced myself to start the descent, the longer I waited the harder it was to leave. Plus there was growing desire to share my day with my loved ones.
I proudly look at the scabs on the back of my right hand as the jamming on the Regular Route 5.9 was meant for me. The knobs where almost placed perfectly to help me get out of every tricky spot except for one little foot slip mid way on the 3rd pitch, (fixed gear #6 BD Stopper – green), I felt comfortable on the entire route. I got slightly off route once just before the first over hang but found perfectly placed knobs and a little crimp to find my way back to the route proper. My new friend wasn’t in the habit of placing much pro on the route except when the climbing warranted it or there was a need for a directional, kind of like soloing with rope drag. I was reminded on more than one occasion to belay with a lot of slack.
Stemming from my own research on the internet I hadn’t given this route much thought. I had picked shorter routes with varying levels of difficulties both in Tuolumne and the Valley. The 108 degree temps made the decision easier to venture up to the Meadow but it was Karl’s intuitions that lead us to this route. I had expressed a desire to be in a big wide open space. Climbing one of the top 50 Routes in North America (Steck/Roper) was secondary; actually it hadn’t even entered my mind.
The dampness of the 1st pitch was not a real factor except maybe at the crux but with enough high stepping on to knobs and scrumming the right side of my body against the left facing corner system I found a rhythm develop in my climbing which served me well.
At first the route is a little deceiving especially to a Yosemite Nubian such as me. It doesn’t look as hard at first glance. The first pitch is a ramp of sorts but the smoothness of the rock and the somewhat featureless face quickly puts one in their proper place. Technique is what is required not just strength. Royal Robbins text book like hand jamming with the right hand along with the right foot, high stepping a carefully located knob with the left foot and palming the left hand was a repeated technique in the first few pitches. Many hands free stance could be found with enough body friction against the corners.
With each foot jam and pull on a knob I felt the ground beginning to lose it’s pull on me and a sense of freedom enter my little realm. I just couldn’t help to pause at every given opportunity to turn and look down or out from my secure perch. The only bit of discomfort I felt was a mild headache which was quickly diagnosed as “Erin Roc Crank Knob too Tight” headache. Even then the grin could not be wiped from my face.
The climbing started early enough to be the first car in the pullout and the first team on the route. The temperature was brisk but the quick approach warmed us enough to shed a layer or two. Snow was still present at the base of the north facing climb. It does not receive a direct beating from the sun like the south facing routes do.
My kids would take joy in knowing I got to play in the snow mid July. I only wished they had come with me but they had other plans for the day. A tour through the Ahwahnee, the shops and Ansel Adams museum was their schedule for their day without dad. Plus the level of cute boys at the Lodge pool had increased requiring further inspection. Luckily for me my daughter’s French is weak.
Cheers,
Crag
PS:
thanx to DMT for a little editing help and to KB for a wonderful experience and memories I'll not soon forget.
PSS:
thx for the advice on the images.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Aug 27, 2005 - 02:07am PT
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Cool Beans!!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Aug 27, 2005 - 02:36am PT
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Awesome TR - some of those photos are classic, and I'm glad you got up a stellar route - that was totally the place to be for your 1st time. :)
You both look genuinely happy the whole time, which I love to see in photos.
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BKW
Mountain climber
Central Texas
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Aug 27, 2005 - 10:47am PT
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Congrats on you ascent of a steller route Craig.
And Props to Carl for making it happen
Looks like you had great weather.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 27, 2005 - 11:47am PT
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BKW-
I have about 59 slides that look pretty much like that..holler if you ever want to see them.
Rob
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Crag
Trad climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2005 - 08:13am PT
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BKW,
The evening before while at Washburn Point I looked north and saw clouds which I thought would prove ominous for the following day. Karl and I had been in touch a couple of times discussing where to climb and the heat in the Valley made it an easy decision, (108 degrees). I did feel very lucky that the weather was as nice as it was.
Once on the summit I turned around and looked at the Dome Across From Fairview (DAFF) and was amazed at the view the stretched out to the north from its position.
The smile effect was a constant.
Cheers,
Crag
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