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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 20, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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last year, about this time, Caughtinside and I zipped over Tioga Pass and climbed a route on Temple Crag.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=643502&msg=644209#msg644209
We had so much fun that we decided to go back. This time we crashed near Mono Lake:
And sped into Bishop to snag a permit.
Hiking in, nice & hot, even bumped into a young lady I know from Berkeley:
Set up camp at the BEACH:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EbT29fE2sE
Did a little smack-talking:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jq8oFPFd9LA
I discovered that the eggs I had schlepped were not hard-boiled --I had thought they were-- so I tested the culinary limits of a Jetboil:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS3iyq07J2k
And watched the sun set:
Woke up bright an early and jumped onto the snowy approach:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGLs6EN2FxY
And finally roped up for P1 of the Sun Ribbon Arete.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vUMDYAoK6w
etcetera
Made several vain attempts at lasso-ing the horn for the
requisite Tyrolean traverse:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SZBjID5Nafc
Saw some other folks over on Venusian Blind:
Chopped some gratuitous tat:
Caught some, umm, "weather."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xec1DDmZAeM
And then it started hailing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbfKbZy1iVM
Dave jumped onto the crux pitch. Pretty soft for 5.10 and a VERY short bit of it, at that. He found some wet lichen covered footholds and almost lost a Link cam to the booty gods... but I retrieved it.
Things cleared up and we proceeded to plod along the sharp arete that makes up the top several pitches of Sun Ribbon.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZHkLxGY1_w
Dave kept his good cheer for some more gendarme-wrestling:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nLAUWRuvH0
And we topped out. Finally. The Sun Ribbon finished very close to the summit of Temple Crag, and having tagged the summit the year previous we decided to forego the formality this time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoJbbtGQsek
Back at camp, 12 hours tent-to-tent, we were feeling pretty knackered. The LAST time, an ascent of Venusian took ~4 hours, whereas the Sun Ribbon clocked in at 9 hours roped. Altitude plus weather plus no lunch equals slow.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WM_1xDDlMvM
Fin.
(note: we did not run into Flouride, but heard about her helmet. Glad you're OK girl!)
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 20, 2009 - 07:54pm PT
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How sweet it is!
thanks,
Zander
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 20, 2009 - 08:02pm PT
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Very cool!
good job. You guys are a pretty good team. Funny too!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 20, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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Oh, those beers are tasty too! Had about 18 the other weekend.....
EDIT: Yo Fatty, just so people don't think I'm suicidal, that was 18 over TWO days....just keepin' the record straight.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 20, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Nice stuff Slob!! You really got a ton of vids, and a couple nice shots!
I just checked my camera, I've got a vid of you on the tyrolean and a couple other neat gendarme shots, I'll try to get them to you manana.
Fun trip!!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 20, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
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Nice. One of my top five favorite routes - so good!
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Jul 20, 2009 - 09:46pm PT
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Technology has really changed this game. Love those film clips, in particular the look on the face of the hat when he says it's going to clear up.
We did the Sun Ribbon twenty five years ago this week. We didn't even have a camera.
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 02:30am PT
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btw we both agreed that Venusian Blind had far more enjoyable, sustained-ish climbing, with far less loose BS.
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Les
Trad climber
Bahston
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Jul 21, 2009 - 07:39am PT
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Sweet TR! It was about 4 years ago I climbed this route. Loved every minute of it. Will be out there again in less than two weeks to give Venusian Blind a go.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Jul 21, 2009 - 10:36am PT
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Good stuff !
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 21, 2009 - 10:53am PT
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Nice summit shots!!!
Cool TR
Keep it up
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TYeary
climber
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Jul 21, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Very cool. Brings back great memories of that route. I always thought how cool is it that the opening pitch and scramble to the notch above belie the great climbing found higher on route. Truly a Sierra classic. Thanks,
Tony
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 11:43am PT
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Great job guys. Cool to see what I missed out on.
You were way smart camping where you did. The early AM hike over from 3rd Lake wasn't worth the nice shady campsite. If I do it again, I'm camping where you guys ended up.
Were the skeeters as bad over there as they were at 3rd?
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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Mosquitoes were not bad at all where we camped (NB I am from New Hampshire, so my bug meter is not attenuated to California), except for a short bit right after sunset.
And you're right: the early AM approach is much nicer without the talus maze.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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We had about 1 hour of bad skeeters in the evening both nights, but for the most part it was a lot less buggy up at the beach than down by 3rd lake.
Drawback is you have to hoof it a bit to get water. But the sand was great, we spent a lot of time barefoot out there.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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Great job guys. Cool to see what I missed out on.
You were way smart camping where you did. The early AM hike over from 3rd Lake wasn't worth the nice shady campsite. If I do it again, I'm camping where you guys ended up.
Were the skeeters as bad over there as they were at 3rd?
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 12:01pm PT
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Good stuff!
Thanks for the comparison to Venusian, I enjoyed SRA and your words might encourage me to try Venusian. Maybe after I get up the cahoneys and skills for Dark Star.
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Swami Jr.
Trad climber
Bath, NY
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Jul 22, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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Beautiful gents. Well done and kudos for the inspiration.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Jul 22, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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Sweet!!Nice Send fellas! Looks like a fun trip. I'll have to get to a computer with sound to listen to those videos. Wow that's a lot of tat. So you liked camping up at the beach eh, I suppose that would get you acclimatized pretty quickly. Slob yeah skeeders got nothing on black flies.
AHHH I wanna get to the mountains soo badly, kinda jealous over here.
NutJob, Dark Star isn't that bad it's like e butt middle cathedral with east butt of Whitney to finish with, bring lots of food and water. Not as good however as the aformentioned aretes.
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