Free climbing beta request for Sheer Lunacy - Zion

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cultureshock

Trad climber

Wall Climber Wannabe

Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2009 - 01:20pm PT

I am looking for some information about the free climbing on Sheer Lunacy. Sounds like a fun alternative if Moonlight is busy. The route supposedly checks in at 12c/13b depending on the variation.

Evidently Brittany Griffith and Kate Rutherford were on it recently.
Has else anyone been on route?

The only info I could find was a free climbing topo on MP.com
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/zion_national_park/moonlight_buttress/106295402

The photos from this gallery make the route look stellar.

Thanks,
Luke

mikeyschaefer

climber

Yosemite

May 8, 2009 - 03:32pm PT

I climbed the route a couple days after i shot the photos of it. It is a super sweet route, better than I expected.

The first 12b pitch aint so bad, pretty standard thin crack lybacking, most people bring triples of purple and blue tcu. You should put a 3 camalot in the last part of the roof on this pitch to keep your rope from getting jammed. I've heard it happens if you aren't mindful of that.

The upper crux is great, I went the easier 12c way to the right. Real airy stepping off the belay. good varied climbing with good gear. Can be exciting making the traverse back left to the corner but there is a sinker Red C3 part way out the traverse. Takes a small stopper once back in the main corner, pretty critical piece, #4 BD i believe. There is another crux in the shallow corner. And be aware the bolt is a little suspect (and hard to clip if you are vertically challenge like me). Probably should be replaced. It wouldn't be hard to do from the top. It's one rope from the top down to that pitch. Pretty easy to find the bomber anchors on top.

The 5.13 way looked real grim. Maybe only been done once or so.

Definitely a great alternative to moonlight.

cultureshock

Trad climber

Wall Climber Wannabe

Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2009 - 04:20pm PT

Awesome!! Thanks.

Your photos make the line look so good.

Is there any good linking beta or must have gear for the easier pitches?

Do you know if or how long the route stays in the shade? Would it be feasible to do in a few weeks or was it already getting hot when you did it?

Are there any other bolts that need to be replaced?

Thanks,
Luke

mikeyschaefer

climber

Yosemite

May 8, 2009 - 04:45pm PT

from the top of pitch 1 in the topo you referenced you can continue to go up the corner. Don't step right to the tree but continue on another 25ft or so. There is a two bolt anchor up there. Then continue up for another pitch to the huge traverse ledge. The climbing is easier but not as good as doing the two standard pitches to the right.

The topo says double for #2 and #3. I only brought singles. And only a new #4 camalot, no 3.5. you have to run it out a little bit but its not so bad.

I didn't notice any other loose bolts but i wasn't really looking for them. The only reason i noticed the one on the 12c was because i was using it for a directional while jugging.

no exactly sure of the sun shade times, but i bet it would be hot in the sun soon. The climbing goes fast so it shouldn't be a problem to start later in the day. I don't think i started climbing till around 10 and was done plenty before dark

Captain...or Skully

Social climber

North of the Owyhees

May 8, 2009 - 04:52pm PT

"Easier 12C".....ARRGggGHhh. Indeed.
Sounds a lot like A1, to a feeble old goat, as I.
Right on!

climber

I drink your milkshake!

May 9, 2009 - 08:41pm PT

Just to add some normal person beta for any normal folks clued in here:

This is a great route and if you are one of those typical 5.10 trad leaders you will be free climbing all over this thing. Basically two aid pitches. If you can climb some 5.11 you probably won't aid more than 50 feet.