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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
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but wait
If you are trying to explain the climbing procedures thought the king swing section to an average climber who has never seen the wall but want to understand the technique, how would you explain it?
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Saltydog
climber
NC
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Mar 26, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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you go first.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Mar 26, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
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you get a rope.. secure it to the bolts... lower off to the white bands or so.. run east.. then run harder to the west... Grab a corner at the top of your penji... done!
Next
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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Mar 26, 2009 - 04:12pm PT
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With some trepidation...
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 26, 2009 - 04:41pm PT
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you have to run really hard and leap the gap in the middle, then run again and grab the slopers.
perhaps the funnest thing I have done on the Captain.
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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Mar 26, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
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Didn't Nanook post a movie of the thing here?
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 26, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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Start here
then, get to here.
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Mar 26, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
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Nice shot Walleye! Did you take the shot or the swing. Where was it taken from?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 26, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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So...is there like a pool going for how long Boot Flake will be there?
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scuffy b
climber
4 to 8
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Mar 26, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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Everyone knows it wont last past about 1985.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 26, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
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Whoa...that's coming right up!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Mar 26, 2009 - 10:03pm PT
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Something like this guy....
Or this guy... (you don't have to do the flip like he did!!! LOL)
Not like this guy....
And maybe not this guy either...
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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Tons of photos and no explanation so there I go again;
I need to know the followings on the photo first;
1- *Location of Boot Flake
*Location of pitch 16 anchor
*Location of pitch 17 anchor
*Location of Eagle Ledge
2- The standard lowering process before pendulum and please try to explain it to someone who has not seen the wall but need to understand it without looking at a photo.
Thanks
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Mar 27, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Oooh, I can't wait for this...
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 27, 2009 - 01:41am PT
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Majid
It's a waste of time. Nothing needs to described with words or fotos.
The king swing reveals itself when you arrive.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 27, 2009 - 02:08am PT
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for once I think I agree with Werner. :)
what's really going on Majid?
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2009 - 02:33am PT
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ok werner
I talk about it later
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Mar 27, 2009 - 04:28am PT
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(still have to double log-on. damn)
I'll make the question more interesting. What is the recommended sequence if you are soloing? Like, do you haul to the top of boot flake, then lower and swing with two lines (haul and lead) or what. (I used to hear about a midway anchor that made the swing easier; I guess its gone now?) I can imagine it could get tricky to think through the perfect approach. Or for me its usually, I figure out the correct approach only after trying a couple of wrong approaches. An hour or two shot right there. ha
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Mar 27, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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Years ago, Rock and Ice had an article--the one where "Beta" came into common parlance (from "Betamax" the video format)--by Bob Yoho about how to climb the crux boulder pitch on Astroman. It was a play by play with photo sequence.
Pretty controversial at the time...
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