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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 7, 2009 - 02:53am PT
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anyone done it?
2x4s really the standard descent and pro?
sick dirt!
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andy@climbingmoab
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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I walked up to it once years ago, and high tailed it back to safety as soon as it became obvious what i was getting in to. Total horror show.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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With all the great rock around Hanksville why would anyone want to climb on THAT?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Been there, done that when I lived in Bicknell. Super sketch. Soloing on steep dirt, then soloing on steep hard dirt, then soloing on crumbling shale, then some actual rock. Then you get to downsolo everything. I didn't see any 2x4s or other evidence of raps, and it seems like you'd need giant cuts of 2x to rig anything across the chimneys.
If you want to go climbing, skip this pile. If you want something resembling an adventure, you'll probably get it on this. It has a mountaineering feel to it, like being on an alpine face with deteriorating snice over shale with spindrift raining down on you...except you're in a tshirt and it's 95 degrees and the snow/ice is dirt/mud.
I'd recommend putting some fungus on the rack. Then afterwards go climb at the Dylan Wall or add more fungus and wander around Goblin Valley.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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It sounds impossible, or insane, either way you win.
;)
thx for the insights
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i lived 45 minutes from that pile for close to nine years, and never, ever, EVER was inspired to climb it. my god, the horor. some great canyoneering in the vicinity though. lotsa dinosaur bones as well if that's your cup of tea.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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no bones for me... it was fricking 9F in Torrey.
Bvb, I meant to call you in Flag when we were there, but ended up a day behind sched and had to drop down to Prescitt.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Ahh, Torrey. The upscale/touristy burg of the Loa/Lyman/Bicknell/Teasdale/Torrey metropolitan area. Only place I've ever eaten rattlesnake.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Eighteen hundred feet high. Too bad this is not the highest point in Utah, or there would be a lot of frustrated peak baggers at the base, wandering, lost, gnashing their teeth at the unfairness of it all. As it is, this is a fantastic adventure, going where very few have gone.
The views from the top are incredible--you could be on a different planet.
I was off-route, in the photo above. The talus was wildly unstable and temporary.
The cliff band in the distance looked so inviting, we saw what appeared to be a mini-Titan. So Frosty and I spent most of the next day driving vague roads until we got to within walking distance. Close up it was indeed a mini-Titan in size, but even softer rock. Hmmmmm.
A couple of years later, I returned with Strappo and a monstrous rack of gear, including sharpened two-foot-long steel stakes.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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holy mackerel!
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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I have driven by it many times and it always got my attention... beautiful chunk of geology there!! I always figured it would be a real hump to get up it and from what you guys are saying I was wise to keep my distance and just enjoy looking at it!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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This looks like Temple of the Sun in CRNP. Anybody ever climb it?
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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There's a guidebook being put together for Wayne County, by Jared Spaulding. It'll have details of the Factory Butte routes:
http://fremontriverrock.jaredspaulding.com/
I think it'll cover Capitol Reef too.
Expect crowds on Factory Butte in the future!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Ah, Rubin and Ed. A Caineville Classic. I think the first time I saw it was at the Wayne Theater in Bicknell. Later in the 90's they used to screen it at the Luna Mesa Cafe on occasion. I think the last time I saw it was at the '98 Fall Ball. The Luna Mesa's owner has some good stories. He has one really good yarn concerning a very wasted River Phoenix going on about UFO's and aliens.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 18, 2013 - 02:41am PT
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so how many folks have done it?
footwear suggestions?
and yes, i did just order the guidebook.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2013 - 03:21am PT
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I'm guessing crampons.
holy mud bump! who would start a thread like this!
Crunch, how did the mini Titan adventure go?
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aguacaliente
climber
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Nov 18, 2013 - 03:22am PT
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You need to round up 20 Utah Boy Scout leaders as partners, and trundle that entire rig until it's flat. A rock might fall on somebody.
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thebravecowboy
Social climber
Colorado Plateau
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Nov 18, 2013 - 04:09am PT
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