Goin for the Muir

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no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2005 - 09:25pm PT
I'm one in a party of three going for the Muir Wall on June 13th- 19th (weather and crowds permitting). There will also be two friends of mine from Germany going for Tripple Direct just ahead of us. Does anybody half plans for the same section of wall for the same dates? Any beta or links to a recent trip report for the Muir would be appreciated. Thanks!
Todd

climber
IDAHO
Jun 5, 2005 - 11:15pm PT
We (2) are looking at the Muir. Plan is to start around the 11th. There are a couple of old TR's out there that I am sure you have seen. Not much else that I can pass on. Enjoy!!
Todd
golsen

Social climber
kennewick, wa
Jun 6, 2005 - 01:20am PT
Mike - cool link. Thanks!

PS - Sounds like it was a success, I mean you are still married?
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Jun 6, 2005 - 10:14am PT
Wow Mike,

That was is the coolest trip report I have ever seen. I think it is great you shared El Cap with Moria. You just better hope every time you plan a wall climb she is not waiting at the door with her gear.(ha ha just kidding) Got any more stuff like that of other routes?

deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Jun 6, 2005 - 05:43pm PT
Hi Mike

Nice presentation on your piece. Makes me want to go out and buy one!

(where can I find a Muir Wall, please?)

no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2005 - 07:24pm PT
Mike, thanks for the reply. I have read your TR before and it's great, took many notes from it! Sounds like you've got a good woman. I've been married for 9 years and just got my wife to do Touchstone in Zion 2 monthes ago. The deal was, that we had to do it in a day. She did awsome! It's no Muir Wall, but a start anyway. I'm still working on getting her to bivy with me! Wish me luck! HaHaHa!
Todd, We should be two days behind you. Good luck! We'll see you there!
Todd

climber
IDAHO
Jun 6, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
no one-
Sounds great. Good luck to you also! Just don't pass us too fast!!!
Curious about your game plan? Blast off, fix or like ST says and climb to Heart- Fix and Haul the next day???
Todd
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2005 - 12:00am PT
Thanks again Mike!
Todd, our approach is going to be the ST approach. We hope to start on monday the 13th. Blast, fix, haul, and shout alot of encouragement your way. See you there Bro!
Steve
Todd

climber
IDAHO
Jun 7, 2005 - 11:04am PT
Right on Steve!
Same plan here.
Let the suffering begin!!!
Todd
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2005 - 06:50pm PT
Hey Todd,
I'm sure you've heard, the fixed lines are gone! Hope this doesn't screw with your plans to much!
See Ya! Steve
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 7, 2005 - 07:08pm PT
You'll have to suss out the situation when you get there. A few days ago there was a haul-bag about 4-5 pitches up with a rope or two fixed above (but not below to the ground. I didn't see anybody and heard that the bag had been there for a few days.

Kinda weird. If I was a guessing man, I'd guess that the party hauled the bag to the base of the big traverse, and then climbed over and maybe penjied over to the fixed lines from Heart.

Then, of course, those lines came down. I don't know whose bag it was, if it's still there, or how they plan to get it.

Just some info

Peace

karl
Todd

climber
IDAHO
Jun 7, 2005 - 07:34pm PT
Yeah Steve, I have been following the latest events. We are ready to fix from Heart, but haven't really decided what will be best. Ready for whatever I guess.

Karl, thanks for the info. Does seem kinda weird.

Todd
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2005 - 10:41pm PT
Thanks for the info Karl!
Todd, we are thinking of just doing it in a push! Ammon told me that he has hauled the lower pitches (moby dick start) and that it wasn't that bad; as far as he can remember. He said to make the first haul a long one to the ledge and to becareful not to knock off stuff on the craggers below! I don't know we'll see!
See Ya! Steve
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 7, 2005 - 10:50pm PT
I've hauled it a few times. The hauling isn't bad at all. (although it get's a bit worse, if I remember correctly, just before Heart)

I climb Moby Dick Center, cause it's more fun, but haul the left side. Rarely a cragger there.



Ammon

Big Wall climber
Lake Arrowhead
Jun 8, 2005 - 01:38am PT

Hey Steve,

Either you misunderstood me or I communicated poorly, most likely the later.

Don't haul to the ledge (second pitch of Moby Dick). Wait until you have done the pendi's and then haul from the third pitch.

Good luck and have fun. Hope to see you out there.

Cheers-
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
Jun 8, 2005 - 06:04am PT
Last week my friend and I bailed out of Muir after doing the first few pitches. Too old, fat and lazy and with the naïve idea that El Cap 10-20 years ago, some plastic and a trip up WF LeaningT would be enough training. Not so - we very too slow.
But we did haul from the 2nd pitch ledge of Moby D. Somewhat awkward due to those strangely low belay bolts. Bivouaced before the first traverse and rapelled off to go cragging.
Will have to get better and return on my 60 years birthday in stead.

Best of luck and fun to you guys.

Michael
yo

climber
NOT Fresno
Jun 8, 2005 - 10:20am PT
Since we're settling all ethical and stylistic dilemmas on Supertaco now, you should know that no ascent of the Muir counts unless you get in the Left Dick. If you need inspiration, find the old pic of Chouinard wedged up in that flare in his chukka boots with like eighty feet of rope out. Onward!


Awesome TR, Mike. I THOUGHT that's how they got the ropes up there...

And Michael from Denmark, take heart--my dad did El Cap in his sixties. You can, too.


T-minus 9 hours to da Valley. See ya out there, boys and girls!
Gunkie

climber
Jun 8, 2005 - 11:01am PT
Anyway, Mori is always so cool about that stuff; always good with letting me have some "guy time" up there. Never, ever breathes a word of complaint. I'm still in awe.

Mike,

No kids yet, huh?

I'm able to get two weeks in the valley only because (1) I plan it way out beyind any social engagements on the family calendar,(2) I line the kids up with fun summer camps [horseback riding, swimming, poking snakes with sticks,...etc], (3) use lots of frequent flyer/credit card points for these trips, and (4) I pay my dues with huge amounts of babysitting during the year, during work days [I really hope my boss doesn't read this forum].

And I get lots of complaints. It makes leaving on long trips that much easier. And one of my kids doesn't really doesn't look like me, at all.
no_one

Big Wall climber
Hurricane, Utah
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2005 - 05:33pm PT
Ammon, sorry bro, it was my fault. I went back and read you Email and you did say to haul after the second pitch. Thanks again Karl, and Michael I'm cheering for Ya! Hit it on your 60th!!
See Ya! Steve
BoKu

Sport climber
Douglas Flat, CA
Jun 8, 2005 - 05:55pm PT
"...about a thousand SLCDs..."

Nice rack, dude!

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