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fistfullofdynamite
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 26, 2005 - 08:18pm PT
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Does anyone know of this massive wall in the Sequoia National Forest right before Lake Hamilton? I've done a search for it and can't find any info except a couple little blurbs about it. I discovered it when I was there a long time ago and have always wanted to check it out. I've heard it has three or four routes on it going at 5.9-5.10a. Any help?
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dirtbag
climber
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May 26, 2005 - 08:59pm PT
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Check out R.J. Secor's book "The High Sierra: Peaks, Passes and Trails." There is beta in there.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 26, 2005 - 09:09pm PT
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summitpost.org
?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 26, 2005 - 09:15pm PT
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Also covered in the '93 Sequoia/Kings Canyon guide by Moser, Vernon, and Hickey (out of print but pretty easy to find in climbing stores, unlike their Needles guide). Four routes covered, 3 aid, 1 free (South Arete aka Rowell route), with a topo for the Rowell route (10/11/11+ depending on variations and if you believe the topo or not).
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2005 - 02:00pm PT
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fistfullofdynamite, have you been known as 'el cid' in past lives? fifteen years ago I drooled over angel wings with el cid.
i can scan the relevant topo sections from the 93 guidebook, though my only experience using the guidebook has led me to have a great respect/fear for ratings in sequoia/kings
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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May 27, 2005 - 02:58pm PT
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at least a day to hike in...well worth it i'm sure!!!
the topos and descriptions for these types of areas in Vernon, Moser, and Hickey's Sequoia/Kings Canyon Guide are not very descriptive so plan on an adventure!!!
supposed to be the next best thing to El Cap...probably better due to lack of accessability...therefore lack of crowds!!!
ENJOY!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 27, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
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Anggels Wings looks amazing!
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2005 - 03:58pm PT
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Camping Beta:
Pass the normal mule packing camp, cross the river @ ~13 miles, and DON'T STOP at the normal backpacker camp just past the river.
On the 1st night of a 5 day trip a bear climbed the tree and reached down off the branch to cut our hanging food. We rushed him when he was scavenging booty, he held his ground, we admitted our bluff, skulked off, and slept fitfully. Next morning when looking for our stuff, I scared the bear out of a bush and chased him up the river valley, and found tons of other people's stuff in the bushes. The bear had it wired (that was back in 1991, but don't imagine much has changed except maybe the specific bear).
We decided to continue to Black Kaweah - a sweet 3rd class summit scramble by the way- en route passing Hamilton Lake & Angel Wings, Precipice Lake. We had only a 4oz can of tomato paste (punctured with bear tooth), 1/2 bag of spaghetti, and untouched bag of reese's pieces. Everything else was gone. So we seasoned our bland spaghetti with moss and lichens. And we liked it.
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fistfullofdynamite
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2005 - 06:19pm PT
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Thanks a lot! I am getting that the only good beta is to get a book. I am not 'el cid' but I have been thinking about Angels Wings for YEARS. I know the approach is pretty cake but long. It might be worth a recon and some reading up.
Thanks again, keep me updated on any info or experiences and stay cool.
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2005 - 06:23pm PT
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what are the ethics of posting a scanned image of out-of-print guide book? doesn't seem like authors are losing money, but welcome to viewpoints of folks on the list before I post up
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fistfullofdynamite
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2005 - 07:12pm PT
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Post it dude, no one will say anything. Following the rules is no way to go through life;)
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2005 - 07:48pm PT
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sorry to let you down for the long weekend dude. the sequoia/kings book is holding it's spot next to my toilet at home, and alas I am at work with the scanner. it'll have to be next week
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 27, 2005 - 08:00pm PT
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In the Climbing California's High Sierra book by Moynier and Fiddler there is a really cool picture of someone freeing "The Black Roof" 5.11+ on The South Arete Direct of Angel Wings. The picture was taken by Dave Nettle. It doesn't say who the climber is but from reading the trip story it might be Jim Nowak. Looks like a fun route.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 27, 2005 - 09:30pm PT
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Go here: http://www.ecjoe-vertical-logistics.com/
click on "Some Mo' Classics" and read the trip report about 2/3 down the page... there is a topo too... "Just a Rock in the Park" V-VI, 5.10 A3+
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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May 28, 2005 - 12:47pm PT
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"At nearly 2,000 feet, this is the biggest rock wall in Sequoia National Park. Approach 18 miles from Crescent Meadow near Giant Forest on the High Sierra Trail to Hamilton Lake."
~ Moser, Vernon, & Hickey
The only topo in the book is a variation of the South Arete (Rowelle Route) IV 5.10 called South Arete Direct IV 5.11.
I can e-mail you a scan of the pages if you don't want to buy the whole book, but its a great book as far as "getting a start" goes, but it sure ain't no SUPERTOPO!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 28, 2005 - 01:31pm PT
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Long hike in, but pretty flat. Watch it at "Bear Paw Meadow," the regular campsite. Bears will pillage your sh#t, even if it's hung in trees.
Angel Wings rock is not the greatest, but that area has a lot of potential. For ambitious folk, do a recon, then return with enough stuff to last two weeks and tic off some stuff.
JL
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 29, 2005 - 01:15am PT
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Other good adventure trips of lesser or greater magnitude would be Castle Rock Spire (amazing views from Moro Rock) and some time in my life I have to do Tehipite Dome. Bigger than Angel Wings, longer hike (and an easier climb doing the existing 5.9 route).
I'm not sure of climbability, but the rock wall that rises out of the back of Precipice Lake (above Hamilton Lake) is just stellar. I took a bazillion photos that just look lame. And near the middle of the 4th class scramble to Black Kaweah summit, you top out a talus slope to a razor ridge, looking straight down 1000+ feet at a 12,000' lake. Can't imagine a more inaccessible wall in Sequoia/Kings: 22 miles hiking with cross-country, talus scrambling (by the time you get to that lake), perhaps swimming/rafting across lake to actual base of wall.
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fistfullofdynamite
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2005 - 01:41pm PT
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Climberweenie,
If you want killer climbing with a not so hard approach you have to do Temple Crag and either Sun Ribbon Arete or Venusian Blind. Both are cruisers at 5.7-5.8 but great exposure, great mountains, great lakes, great camping, a must do for any serious climber.
Thanks for the info on Angels Wings, it just looks so aesthetic!
Did a little bouldering up in your neck of the woods this weekend, ever go to Putah Creek? Beautiful area, some solid problems.
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 31, 2005 - 02:14pm PT
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not familiar with Putah or other stuff you mentioned, will research. I'll scan the Angel Wings stuff today.
I was checking out Charlito Dome (Artesian Route) until I saw the pitch '5.9 no pro' and I said to myself, this has the look of an E.C. Joe special (checked the back of the guide, sure enough).
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fistfullofdynamite
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2005 - 02:44pm PT
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Both topos are on this site under high sierra climbing, check 'em out.
Charlito Dome? Where is it?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!