Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2008 - 12:34am PT
|
not to interrupt the political discussions, but I am looking for beta on The Open Book (5.9) -- pictures, suggestions etc. This would be a tough lead for me but I am entertaining the idea of trying it if i am not convinced otherwise :)
Are there any points from which to retreat?
How is the gear?
thanks,
Steve
|
|
esoteric1
Trad climber
san dieco, ca
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 12:36am PT
|
you can retreat up at any point in the climb.
and the gear is all there, totaly solid as long as you bring something bigger than a number 3... as it made it kinda sketchy when I did it.
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 12:38am PT
|
I'm guessing you mean by leaving gear...
I was wondering about rap anchors or features that could readily be slung and rapped from.
|
|
esoteric1
Trad climber
san dieco, ca
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 12:42am PT
|
bail up! youve got it, i know you can rap the route but i cant remember if you need 2 ropes or not.
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 12:44am PT
|
Hey Chop;
The route is pretty straight forward lay backing & jamming. Solid 5.9 The Pro is good. Standard rack.
A must do route for any visitor.
|
|
tooth
Mountain climber
B.C.
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 12:50am PT
|
I felt like the crux was in the first 10 feet. Darren D. managed to jam the second pitch instead of lying it back, left one of my #4 metolius cams there, and the next spring, my other buddy bootied someone else's #4 out of the same crack! Just do it, you will love the thing!
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 01:03am PT
|
awesome. thanks for the encouragement. i'm quite sure I can send it, i am mostly concerned with there being sufficient gear. I have a few wide pieces and some hexes so hopefully i can sew it up.
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 01:20am PT
|
You'll pump it out no problem. Wish I was there. But I'm stuck in Wyoming till the spring.
Cheers, Dog
|
|
apogee
climber
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 01:54am PT
|
P2 5.8 liebacking placing blind hexes- now that's adventure!
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 01:58am PT
|
blind hexes are scary (read: character building)
|
|
Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples....
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 03:05am PT
|
Well, I have no idea if you can climb this or not but here are some pics to help build up the stoke! I found it to be stout 5.9 in a couple sections but very safe.
The money, Open Book, 5.9...
The first ten feet are certainly heads up! Not too hard (I wouldn't call it the crux) but a very interesting start none the less. The first ten feet...
This is still the first pitch, after the awkward start and the big flake right above my partner is called the Elephants Ear. After we climbed the Open Book we met a older man in the parking lot who said that back when he climbed with Yvon (name dropper he was!) they would climb the whole first pitch as a lieback up to the top of the Ear. He said it made it easier.
Here is the money on the second pitch. Perfect hands...
Those are the good pictures. Great climb overall, hope you send it proud!
-n
|
|
WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 03:10am PT
|
The initial overhang is the crux as far as I'm concerned. I've led it over thirty times because I love The Mechanics. The push up to the Elephant's Ear is a bit of a strain but nothing to worry about. Give yourself a bit of a rest before you do the last ten or twelve feet to the cave on the second pitch; it steepens up. Great route and good pro all the way.
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 03:13am PT
|
wow thank you so much. i have felt pretty stagnant on 7s and 8s but I have been cautious about going harder due to being relatively new to placing gear. I have been told my gear is pretty solid so I figure its time to kick it up a notch- and this is a pretty awesome climb. If i get there and feel a gut check, there's no shame in training till its the right time.
Many thanks for the beta though. Ill post a TR down the line, one way or the other.
|
|
Russ S.
climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 03:54am PT
|
Wow, OB - my first 5.9, back in 1978. It's a classic, go for it!
|
|
Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Gunks, NY
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 04:12am PT
|
haha i wasnt even alive then!
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 05:45am PT
|
(Pitty) It was a great adventure. You could dirt bag real cheap. I once camped on top of Suicide most of the summer. If you did that now you would end up in jail. Hell we even had a bit of stash growing in the valley. Times were good.
|
|
rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 06:22am PT
|
Liebacking that second pitch isn't a very good idea, you'd be better off playing the wide jamming game.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 10:13am PT
|
Fun climb! My first 5.9 lead. I don't recall much laybacking- never layback when you can jam.
|
|
Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 10:57am PT
|
If you get past the overhanging boulder problem start you will be good to go. That is one fine route you are about to embark on.
Bring 2 #4's, you will be happy you did.
|
|
poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
|
|
|
Oct 21, 2008 - 11:10am PT
|
when you get to the flake straddle the thing it's all fair game haha
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!