Regular Route on HD free soloed.

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FeelioBabar

climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2008 - 05:11pm PT
guess who?
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:19pm PT
Sh#t - BURT soloed it 25 years ago.

STFU




Juan
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:22pm PT
If this went down, my money would be on young Alex.
FeelioBabar

climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
PROUD!
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
Badass!!
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
Wow!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
Holy Toledo!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:42pm PT
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
Alex Who?
noshoesnoshirt

climber
hither and yon
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:40pm PT
Alex Trebek
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:44pm PT
wow
total balls
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Alex Honnold. Total badass.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:06pm PT
That is a super proud send to say the least, but, uh, I've never heard of Alex Trebek (but then I'm not in the game). Young eh, how young? I'm just curios.

Congrats Alex.
Marshall

climber
bay area
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:23pm PT

incredible.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/newswire-honnold-solo-half-dome

we did it in 14 hrs, pulled on gear like madmen, and thought we were heros.
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
up Yonder (the edge of Treason)
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
Dude, they're effin' with you. Alex Trebek is the host of the game show "Jeopardy".
And a Canadian.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
Dang. Nice one!
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
Patrick - are you ready for this? 23 years old. Maybe 24 now, but I believe 23. Yikes!
S.Leeper

Sport climber
Austin, Texas
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
When do you think he will free solo freerider?
GDavis

Trad climber
SoCal
Sep 9, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
there's no way thats possible. It is IMpossible.


but I know he did it.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Sep 9, 2008 - 08:21pm PT
Alex Trebek knows the questions before the answers...
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Sep 9, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
I'm blown away. What an incredible accomplishment.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 9, 2008 - 08:38pm PT
"Alex Trebek knows the questions before the answers..."

That sounds like a Wernerism, only backwards.

Trebek is also a Canadian. Along with Celine Dion, Paul Anka and others. Be nice, or we'll send more.

Edit: Don't watch TV at all. Too busy posting. What's "Jeopardy"?
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Sep 9, 2008 - 08:46pm PT

you don't watch Jeopardy™ much do you, Anders?

I've said it before and I'll say it again, We will keep Alex, Neil Young, Dan Ackroid, and maybe even Michael J. Fox, as long as you keep us Bryan adams and Shania Twain, free, forever! Oh and we want William Gibson back, too.
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Sep 9, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
That's amazing. Thanks for the link.
Curt

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
That's one bad-ass boulder problem.

Curt

JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:20pm PT
Yawn
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:21pm PT

Interview link:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08x/wfeature-solo-honnold
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:25pm PT
whoah...duuude....
stellar send!!!
itso

climber
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:34pm PT
Awesome Alex!!!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
What are his political views?

Juan
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:35pm PT
STFU, Juan - a public service announcement
JSmith

climber
Squamish
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
Absolutely huge. One of the most inspiring climbers of our time!
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
Sep 9, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
sick!


begs the question:
after the dude does freerider with just a chalk bag-
how long before he free solos both HD and el cap in the same day?
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 9, 2008 - 11:35pm PT
unbelievable! sickness...
Dudeman

Trad climber
Hansen, Idaho
Sep 9, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
Way Proud!!!
Individuals like this lend perspective to the human race. They are actually doing something different in life and not just wasting space and oxygen on this planet. I mean have you looked around lately to see what’s going down? Pretty pathetic we are.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 9, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
Pretty freakin' out there.

Just one question... I'm guessing he did it beforehand to suss it out before launching up it? Seems like that's what he did on Moonlight.

That guy is shaking the foundations of what's possible.
salad

climber
Escondido
Sep 9, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
haha! could you imagine?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 9, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
You gotta believe El Cap is right there in his mind. Just has to figure out what route and get 'er done.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:06am PT
Really incredible I might say!...
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:13am PT
Flat out amazing. Curious how many times he'd done the route before.

jL
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:19am PT
We should be very careful about everything we think is impossible because as our vision expands, our capabilities expand with it and more impossible happens all the time.

Awesome. Is there any doubt that (not that it would be a smart thing) that El Cap will be free soloed someday? We used to thing even freeing the thing was very unlikely.

Peace

Karl
WBraun

climber
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:47am PT
He is breathing air far above the normal scale ......
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:51am PT

Oh my. Boggles the mind. I mean f#ck! This guys has ice in the blood, and his mental focus has got to be positively ironclad. A superlative level of mental control that I can't even imagine.

I'm no doubt the ninny of the group, but my god when I think of someone trying to solo El Cap I get a knot in my stomach and anxiety washes over me like a pale of cold water.

If you are a friend of Alex's, and he tells you that tomorrow morning he's going to give Free Rider a go w/o a rope - could you stand in the meadow to watch? Shudder.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 10, 2008 - 01:35am PT
Did I mention that I'd soloed the regular route on HD, too? Both up and down? With several hundred not-so-close friends for company? There's a picture here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Half_Dome

Oh, you meant the Regular Northwest Face. My bad.
Brian Kimball

Sport climber
Westminster, CO.
Sep 10, 2008 - 03:33am PT
WOW-impressive! I mean when you really think about it...the chances that he would DIE soloing Moonlight or Half Dome are REALLY, REALLY, REALLY, HIGH! I mean just one slip is all it takes and his life is OVER...WOW! The chances of falling off Free Rider would be even higher. I personally belayed him while he feel twice at the boulder crux.
I have said it before and I will say it again "there is a insecure cross over/dyno move to a loose-chossy bread loaf that is most definately going to come ripping off one day and anyone that attempts to solo this route needs his head examined". SO to anwser the gentelmans question "would I hang in the meadow with loved ones and telescopes to cheer my friend on for a solo asscent of El Cap." HELL NO!
Alex is a WORLD CLASS CLIMBER-and a hell of a guy too boot! Why he finds it nessissary to put his life at such high risk like this on such long hard routes...I will never know! I do know this-it would be a tradgic loss to the world and climbing community to have a guy like Alex who climbs 5.14 fall to his death on some 23 pitch 5.12- like Half Dome or some 8 pitch 5.12+ like moonlight
Do I think that Alex's free solos are COOL, AWESOME AND AMAZING...well YEAH!
The question is how cool would it be if he fell???
Most of you seem to care more about seeing El Cap. get free soloed than you do about the life of Alex Honnald.
Nice send Alex...just remember bro...your NOT wearing a BASE RIG-no second chances!
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Sep 10, 2008 - 03:44am PT
That's a check, Brian. Thanks
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 10, 2008 - 07:45am PT
Brian's got a totally rational, reasonable point and it's totally fair to state it.

However, historically, for some karmic or 'divine' reason, the hard-ass soloists seem to die or get hurt in some other way, the exception being Derek and he ate it on 5.9, so go figure.

Sometimes the visionaries have to do their crazy thing. If they die, it on to the next epic, so don't hold on to them too tight.

Funny to see a picture of the guy. World class athlete with nerves of steel doing stuff that would make any Olympian sh#t themselves and puke from fear.....and he looks like the neighborhood friendly video game nut that couldn't lift the spare tire to change a flat!



peace

Karl
AbeFrohman

Trad climber
new york, NY
Sep 10, 2008 - 09:18am PT
sick sick sick, but only a matter of time before he's a grease stain.
(nothing wrong with soloing, not starting a dont solo blablabla thread, im just sayin'.)
More Air

Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
Sep 10, 2008 - 09:55am PT
Free soloing that last slab pitch...
Michael Kennedy

Social climber
Carbondale, Colorado
Sep 10, 2008 - 10:10am PT
More details here:

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/honnold_free-solos_half_domes_nw_face/

and here:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08f/newswire-honnold-solo-half-dome
guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Sep 10, 2008 - 10:16am PT
WOW...Pretty cool, these kids today can sure crank.
howlostami

Trad climber
Southern Tier, NY
Sep 10, 2008 - 10:49am PT
That's some awesome inspiration to get out there and live.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2008 - 11:24am PT
Honedbold strikes again! If you're solid and you know it, hike the Dome! Truly amazing climbing.
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Sep 10, 2008 - 11:39am PT
what Brian said
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:07pm PT
I don't think anyone wants to push anyone else to solo El Cap. Just commentary on the next logical step in the progression of the "impossible." I'd much rather it never saw a free solo ascent than to see someone die trying it.

As with Bachar and Croft before him, from his interview he seems to have a pretty good head on his shoulders and he's able to decide for himeself. Think it was Croft who said in some climbing movie or another that if you're soloing for anyone but yourself, then you've had a horrible joke played on you.

Reports say Honnold had done the Half Dome route five times before, with two free ascents (one two days before the solo).
James

climber
Leavenworthless
Sep 10, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
Alex climbed the route in 2 hours 50 minutes taking the Higbee Hedral, the 5.10 traverse around the Robbins traverse, and the fourth zig-zag. He ran the 5.7 to the top on Saturday morning seeing close to a hundred people on the summit, none of whom took notice of the fact that he'd soloed the Regular Route on Half Dome. No gold medal for Alex, though on the cables down a dozen people noted he was super tough for hiking barefoot.

Soloing's dangerous. I hope that Honnold never falls.
Andy Puhvel

climber
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:10pm PT
The next level Alex! The diciest one yet. I freed all three of Alex's big solos this year, and none of them are even close to as scary as Half Dome. Hard 5.11 dime edge slab 2000 feet off the ground, holds sometimes crumble, hands are almost non-existent at times. This is probably the all around craziest and most insecure free-solo of all time. Rad Alex...the universe in the palm of your hands.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
anyone giving odds on how long before jh posts up that it's a physical impossibility?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Sep 10, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
Fully above awesome.


And what Brian said--my stomach shrinks and explodes just thinking about an El Cap solo. I don't want to encourage that in any way. BTW, I believe the bread loaf is already gone, so the Teflon Corner is the most "reasonable" approach.
bldr

Trad climber
roseville
Sep 10, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
I certainly commend alex for all his achievements but I appreciate Brian's comments the most. Certainly something for all of us to consider as we both revere and encourage those among us.

Sometimes I find it sad that I enjoy seeing these posts largely because I enjoy hearing my old friend is still among the living.

As always congratulation to Alex.

-J
randomtask

climber
North fork, CA
Sep 10, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
I don't think it should count-the NPS fired Half Dome a long time ago, didn't they?
-JR
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
Sep 10, 2008 - 07:16pm PT
It's old news anyway - I've already solo'd Half Dome.
Snake Dike. Twice. Once by moonlight. :)
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Sep 10, 2008 - 08:34pm PT
How high is the BAR now? Amazing.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Sep 10, 2008 - 09:21pm PT
Cheers to Alex! And to Andy too. No small feet for a working dad. Well done!
mikeyschaefer

climber
Yosemite
Sep 10, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
Just a note about the supposed grade of .12a given to the route. Its only 12a to a 5.14 climber. To everyone else it is probably somewhere around the 12b/c grade. I doubt Honnold can tell the difference anymore. In my opinion it is of very similar difficulty to Moonlight which regularly is said to be 12d.

Way to go Honnold!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Sep 10, 2008 - 10:58pm PT
Holy cow!
Loomis

climber
o(>_
Sep 10, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
The reggae route is a boulder problem now, Cool!

the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Sep 11, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
Climbing History. So much cooler than any other thread.
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Sep 11, 2008 - 01:05pm PT
that celebration beer must have tasted good!

i drank one in cheer of your accomplishment and mine even tasted better than the average can.

well done youth.
michaellane

climber
Spokane, WA
Sep 11, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
>>>
I've said it before and I'll say it again, We will keep Alex, Neil Young, Dan Ackroid, and maybe even Michael J. Fox, as long as you keep us Bryan adams and Shania Twain, free, forever! Oh and we want William Gibson back, too.
>>>

Who gets Shatner?

He free-soloed The Nose.

--ML





EDIT: Congrats, Alex. Mind-blowing accomplishment.
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Sep 11, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
OK, great Alex, now knock that sh#t off before you give us a bad name.

Nobody decks as long as I'm alive.

That's The Law.

Three paws down.
Always keep at least three paws down for maximum immortallity.

wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Sep 11, 2008 - 09:44pm PT
Cheers
and
safe climbing
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Sep 11, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
"Just a note about the supposed grade of .12a given to the route. Its only 12a to a 5.14 climber. To everyone else it is probably somewhere around the 12b/c grade. I doubt Honnold can tell the difference anymore. In my opinion it is of very similar difficulty to Moonlight which regularly is said to be 12d.

Way to go Honnold!"

Talked to the Doctor today, who on-sighted the crux "12" pitch. He said it was .12b slab.

shudder
jbar

Mountain climber
The Dirty South
Sep 11, 2008 - 10:13pm PT
Man, I solo 5.6 slab all the time and I never made Alpinist!

All I can say is BALLS man, BALLS! Makes my hands sweat thinking about it. Awesome job Alex. I respect anyone who can muster that level of focus and commitment.

MH - Don't forget Peter Croft. He was Cnanadian.

Am I missing something on the Elcap issue? Didn't Dunn, Croft, Bachar, Potter and others already solo it?
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 11, 2008 - 10:17pm PT
Anyone know when the El Cap Solo is set for. It would be so cool to watch, kind of like Evil Knievel.

JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Sep 11, 2008 - 10:19pm PT
Anyone know when the El Cap Solo is set for. It would be so cool to watch, kind of like Evil Knievel.

Where is the 12b slab pitch? Is that after thank god?


Juan

wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Sep 12, 2008 - 10:29pm PT
Cos

Trad climber
California
Sep 14, 2008 - 11:30pm PT
Absolutely incredible effort by Alex - congratulations and stay safe. Does anyone have a link to photos of the Higbee Hedral pitch? Thanks.
TC

Social climber
No matter where you go, there you are.
Sep 15, 2008 - 12:02am PT
Alex is working up to free soloing HD and El Cap in a day.
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Sep 15, 2008 - 01:49am PT
Can you get a hang glider from the top of El Cap to the base of Half Dome?



Yorock1

Boulder climber
El Portal, Ca.
Sep 18, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
no you cant land a glider @ the base of 1/2 stone
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Sep 18, 2008 - 01:07pm PT
I will never know the freedom nor the accomplishment of being able to freesolo something like that.

Alex, stay alive to climb more routes. Amazing!
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
Sep 18, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
holy cow!
one's huevos shrivel at the mere thought :)
amazing...
Michael Lecky

Mountain climber
Harvard, MA
Sep 19, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
I remember trying to climb 5.10 routes on Suicide, around 1970, and feeling that I was looking at absolute impossibility. This climb is completely beyond my imagination. It utterly dwarfs the accomplishments of China's "Flying Munchkin" child gymnasts. I saw that route, decades ago, back when I had hair, a pair of EB's, and a pair of white painter's pants. How in the name of god could anyone free-climb that?
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Sep 19, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
"Am I missing something on the Elcap issue? Didn't Dunn, Croft, Bachar, Potter and others already solo it?"

What you're missing is that those folks used aid and ropes in sections. EC has never been free soloed, sans rope.
Robinson

Trad climber
Chattanooga
Sep 19, 2008 - 04:00pm PT
One man mission to Mars without a rocket. Incomprehensible.....
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 19, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
It is stupefying to behold such outrageous confidence, skill, conditioning, and just plain mastery of the body and mind. It really doesn't seem within the realm of humanity! It is a blazing bright light of inspiration for our spirits, but the part of me that is tied to this mortal coil is fearful and a bit saddened, grieving in advance.

But I, like all others here, am merely projecting my hopes and dreams and fears onto you, Alex. I hope you're smart enough to live your life as free of all that baggage as your body is free of gear!
jbar

Mountain climber
The Dirty South
Sep 19, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
"What you're missing is that those folks used aid and ropes in sections. EC has never been free soloed, sans rope."

I'm not that familiar with Yosemite history but I thought I remembered something about Peter Croft being so put out he had pulled on an old sling during his El Cap solo that he went back and did it completely free. If none of this it true I wish people would stop using the term "free solo" so loosely. Aid and free are antonymous.

Back to the topic of HD free solo. I could only imagine having that much skill. Hanging near the top where the "harder" stuff starts and knowing the only way off is to keep going up. Whew. Kutzpa!
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 19, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
As I recall, the story about Croft was on the Rostrom and he didn't use the sling, he simply shifted the sling so that it was surrounding his hand on a hold and he reasoned if he slipped, he might be able to grab it that way. As you said, he went back and repeated the solo because of it.
GDavis

Trad climber
Sep 19, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
JBar

You, sir, need a history lesson!

:D

Come have some beers I will extrapolate.


-Armchair Alpinist Extreme
Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber
Nunya, America
Sep 19, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
One o' the Tall Stones,.........
Dirk

Trad climber
The Middle of the Pacific Ocean
Sep 20, 2008 - 12:02am PT
A note to all the climbers in the world who don't know HD... I know this is the wrong forum for this message--well, if you read the report on climbing.com they emphasize how moonlight is 12+ AND HD has "just one" pitch of 12a... but HOLY CRAP those last few pitches after the zig-zags--i cannot imagine it, 5.14 climber or not: you are pushing the boat out.

NICE WORK ALEX!
WBraun

climber
Sep 20, 2008 - 12:10am PT
I did almost the same thing on the Rostrum free solos at that transition face move between the cracks where the sling hung to fixed pin.

Only I clipped it with a sling to a piece of 1 inch webbing around my waist. for that move.

If you slipped there you're instant dust. That move is the scariest and hardest move on the whole route when you free solo it.
jbar

Mountain climber
The Dirty South
Sep 20, 2008 - 12:30am PT
I freely admit I am in need of a history lesson. And I learn much quicker when there is beer involved!

It must seem strange to the posters here but I am just starting to learn about most things climbing when it comes to the American climbng revelotion. I think there are no finer climbers in the world than us Americans. Some Canadians included. lol I was always a huge technical diver. I guess you could say I was sort of a Dean Potter figure in my field. I dove way beyond the typical limits. I also taught mixed gas in the service and for TDI when it started being used in the sports field. That lead me to living in Italy where I took to the mountians like a moth to a porch light. Read everything I could about the mountains and mountaineering. I can talk about Buhl, Walter Bonnati, the Leco spiders, and many of the great climbs of the Alps but I don't know squat about my home. I took a trip out to Yosemite this past year and I'm starting my education. Better late than never. eh?
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 20, 2008 - 03:01am PT
I think the critical question Alex needs to answer about his solo is..... did he walk Thank God Ledge?

Bruce
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Dec 23, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
Bump 'cause this is one of the most impressive accomplishments of the year!
Captain...or Skully

Trad climber
North of the Owyhees
Dec 31, 2008 - 12:18am PT
Free solo bump.
MisterE

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
Big cojones bump
altieboo

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Aug 22, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
Don't think that this has been posted yet.

Brand new video of Alex free soloing Half Dome.

http://vimeo.com/6102557
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Aug 22, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
Where were all the hot chicks when he topped out?
WBraun

climber
Aug 22, 2009 - 09:55pm PT
Classic

A checkered buttoned shirt, shorts, shoes and chalk bag.

Mr. casual.
dwell

climber
Pollock Pines
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
Why does watching this trouble me? Such a acheivement, such a demonstration of vision, discipline, bravery and effort comes across as trivial and meaningless. What an accent!
What a lame choice of audio captured here to represent a morning that could and should inspire poets. Best wishes Alex.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 22, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
Boy, for one of the proudest solos ever, that video (montage hell) portrayed none of the excitement of soloing 5.12 up so high because the person editing the footage was either too impatient or didn't trust the footage enough to settle on a shot long enough to grock onto what was really happening. It's the curse of much of this new climbing stuff - just way too hurried and no sense of visual diction - like writing a story with two and three word sentenses the whole time.

Que lastima . . .

JL
Jim Herrington

Mountain climber
New York, NY
Aug 22, 2009 - 11:28pm PT

I agree, I want to see a re-edit of the video, sans music. Nobody loves music as much as me, but Jesus, I can barely hear him talking... kind of defeats the purpose.

And... when what is happening in front of the camera is absolutely spellbinding, you really don't need to cut much...

But Alex's climb. That is so out there I can barely comprehend.

JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Aug 22, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
yeah, what the heck...I don't understand why any of these guys solo for the camera, but if they're going to...why don't we see more than Potter on the Enduro corner during the credits, or Honnold chalking up at a no hands looking over at Half dome. Why not a video of them doing Astroman, real time. It would only be like an hour and a half, and I would gladly sit through the 2hr.50min. version of this Half Dome one...and if it does get boring during the 5.6..there's always fast forward. I've never paid for a climbing video in my life...but I would support a real time, complete version of one of those...or Hans and Yugi on the Nose.

Alex is solid and inspiring. He's super supportive of all the rest of us lightweights too, and makes climbing seem fun instead of edgy and dangerous...but I still worry about him, and the people he might influence in certain ways.
fluffy

Trad climber
boulder
Aug 23, 2009 - 12:10am PT
incredible accomplishment

shitty video
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Aug 23, 2009 - 12:19am PT
He is so talented and solid, doing stuff that I can't even imagine. Very impressive individual.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Aug 23, 2009 - 12:31am PT
Warbler - It's knott the video, it's the editing...
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 23, 2009 - 04:04am PT
You would almost need to hauled to keep up with the speed these young ins climb at, or some kinda winch.

edit- Oh yeah, lame video.
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Aug 23, 2009 - 07:38am PT
He seems so casual...the video did too. Almost as though they complemented each other. Wonder what the story was with the filming.
I'm not sure anything less than watching the whole climb would be enough for me-
sheesh, what a mind boggle...!

DD
bob

climber
Aug 23, 2009 - 09:42am PT
Was that the all the way go for it send or was it a go back and do the comfy pitches for the camera. Hence, no 12 slab, just looking up at it? I'm not dissing and I don't know about this one, but don't some of those guys do that sort of thing? Send, then go back for comfort pics. Whoa would it be nice to consider the Zig-zags comfort pitches without a rope!!!!!!!!!!
Yikes. Amazing accomplishment. Not that people need pushing through video of that sort of thing.
Jakey, AZ needs you.
Bob J.
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Aug 23, 2009 - 09:48am PT
It was a repeat earlier this year...I think he re-soloed everything but the last pitch...I'm not positive though.
Brendan

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Aug 23, 2009 - 09:48am PT
agreed, this thing needs to be seen as a feature length movie. I would gladly sit through a 45 minute (or however much footage there actually is) version of this solo.

...amazing and inspiring beyond words.
wack-N-dangle

Gym climber
the ground up
Aug 23, 2009 - 10:42am PT
I can't fault it as an internet commercial. An amazing accomplishment to say the least. He deserves the food stamps he got for filming it too.

Anyone remember the video, maybe by National Geographic? It was very quiet. First the guy was training, slacklining and doing lock offs or one arms. Then during the climb, the camera was tightly focused on the guy who was soloing. I remember him reaching back over small roofs, hanging, chalking one hand at a time, and then mantling. At the end they panned out, and he was a couple or a few hundred feet off the deck. Anyway, it kind of blew my mind.

Much more art in both solos than I will ever know. Still, I remember more art in the older movie. Then again, maybe "These are the good ole days.". Climb safe out there.
Bad Climber

climber
Aug 23, 2009 - 11:28am PT
I'm with Largo. The editing drove me crazy on this. But the ascent--Alex is one with the gods! What a feeling that must be to walk up and zip to the top in a few hours--no hassles of belay, gear, just pure movement. I've only soloed a few easy things and didn't get much out of it other than the desire to not do it anymore, but I see the appeal.

This screams for a better director/editor.

BaD
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Aug 23, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
"yeah, what the heck...I don't understand why any of these guys solo for the camera. . . "

The now-uncommon misconception issuing from the previous quote is that the "reason" these guys are doing what they are doing is simple to document the climb on tape. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth.

A lot of recreational adventure sport enthusiasts don't quite understand that these guys are huge time adventure athletes, and the demand for media of them is also huge - from both sponsors and from us. People like Potter, Surfer Kelly Slater, the Moto-X guys, all the big air sketeboarders and Half pipe masters, alpine and half pipe skiers, etc. - they all have photographers and video doos following them all over because they're so often doing historic stuff.

We're not talking about weekend warriors "soul climbing" on 5.10 hand cracks, and wishing they were, or thinking they be should be, or that the sport is somehow less because they aren't, is IMO, not reflective of today's world.

JL
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