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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 24, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
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Summer has been a rather large disappointment this year. Lots of cold and rain, friends not around, mom starting a new career, and dad working long hours at his job and on our house. Not much fun for a 7 year old, or anyone for that matter.
That is until...
Maxine's first climbing experience.
The plan was to just climb a pitch up the slabs on Whitehorse Ledge.
After a bunch of running around picking up some camping supplies, setting up a tent, and picking up a pair of kid size climbing shoes, we reach the parking at about 3PM and hoof it up to the base.
Still wearing her "approach" Crocs she took off up the slab laughing. "This is easy." I reined her in verbally while imagining how I would explain 3rd degree road rash to her mom.
Somehow I manged to misplace my camera. There was no way I was going to not capture this moment so I started running back down the trail retracing my steps. I ran all the way back to the car and found the camera sitting on the trunk. Not a great start but oh well we're only going up one pitch maybe two, so there's plenty of time. Camera in hand it was game on.
Lacing up on the Launch Pad.
The first pitch is a 5.nothing up to the base of a long right facing arch, the prominent feature of Standard Route. The pitch is not much more than a steep 200' stairway. I figure it's perfect to get her up off the ground and take in a little exposure.
She barely broke a sweat. I, on the other hand, sweat plenty trying to take the rope in fast enough.
I really figured this would be as high as we would go. I was kind of thinking this would be enough for her for one day and she would want to go back down. Nope. "Daddy, can we go higher?"
You bet.
Before we know it we're half way up the route with the crux pitch just ahead.
"We can go back down now if you like", I said.
"No, let's just keep going, can we?".
"The next pitch is a whole lot harder than everything below us".
"I don't care", in a 7 year old sassy determined tone.
"OK"
Finally I hear a "daddy, I'm scared". As I look she is dancing across the 5.7 thin face moves like she was playing in the yard. If that's what she calls 'scared' then I see a whole lot of trouble in my parenting future.
Incidentally, when I used to teach climbing I had full grown adult men literally cry out in terror on this very pitch.
Nothing left now but a long leg pumping slab to the top.
"Let's go on the left side, the right side looks boring and has too many trees. I want to be able to see the view".
I have a picture of my wife on our second date and her second time climbing, taken in this exact same spot and exact same pose.
(edited to add the said photo of wife)
and now both (04-26-09)
Her very first rock climb and she slayed it. Round trip from the car was under 4 hours. But she wasn't done...
Day two started with packing up the camping gear and heading out for a leisurely bit of sight seeing and dips in the river while we waited for our next route to go into the shade.
This climb, Refuse, is where I took my wife, Maxine's mom, on our very first date.
Just about here is where I heard her say again "daddy, I'm scared". Yet there was no slowing of the pace I was having to take in rope.
Now anyone who has climbed Refuse will tell you that while it's relatively easy, 5.6, this last little bit has a good bit of hair raising exposure, particularly for a beginner.
"Daddy, can we do some more?"
"Sorry, honey, I'm beat".
"Climber below"
edit: the two cliff shots shamelessly poached from neclimbs.com.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
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That's delightful!
Edit: I see visits to the climbing gym in your future. This winter, say.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:18pm PT
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Dang that's cool.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:20pm PT
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So glad you went back to get the camera. What an awesome TR - and great photos. You must have a huge grin still. :) Thanks for sharing!
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:36pm PT
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That rocked. Proud dad. Proud daughter.
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:43pm PT
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We loved it, especially dad and daughter's shoe shot. My daughters have grown, but it is still special when we get out together.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:44pm PT
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"Incidentally, when I used to teach climbing I had full grown adult men literally cry out in terror on this very pitch. " .... that raised a chuckle Jim, I remember that being an all to frequent occurrence ..
Lucky for Maxine, she gets her looks from her mother!
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2008 - 11:51pm PT
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Jerry,
I was just telling a friend today about the father and son team you sandbagged me with. If I remember correctly it took you all day to get them up the first pitch of Standard then you handed them off to me for their second day. I still curse you for that... but always laugh my ass off at the memory.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 24, 2008 - 11:54pm PT
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so very cool!
here's my partner Mike doing Refuse in 1979
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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Hey Ed,
Great photo!
We actually didn't do that pitch. It doesn't get done a whole lot anymore. The tree is no longer there and now you have to climb a bit of slimy 5.8 offwidth to get to the big ledge.
There's a great story about the demise of the tree in which I nearly met my own.
edit: 79 is probably right about the time I first climbed it. Boy, it hurts to be able to say that.
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Kupandamingi
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Aug 25, 2008 - 12:52am PT
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Screw climbing hard yourself, this is what its all about - as the father of a 2 year, I dream of the day!
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 12:56am PT
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Mega- cute!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 02:39am PT
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Adorable "mini" TR.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:41am PT
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That is SO special.
Wow! You've got to be the proudest daddy
around. With good reason.
Awesome!
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:50am PT
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Shameless exploitation of that little girl to sneak in a trip report, UGH! OR, was it shameless exploitation of a trip report in order to post pics of your kid having a good time?
You must be a very proud daddy, Jim.
She sure is cute.
See Anders, if you had included a cute kid...
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:39am PT
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Very cool TR.
Thanks.
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2008 - 09:55am PT
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I'm always very proud of her. She's a really great little human being. I'm no more proud of her now than usual but I was thoroughly impressed. I didn't expect her to get so into it and basically with no fear.
Other than a couple friend's birthday parties at the local gym she had never been climbing before.
Sorry for the terrible writing style. I put it together very late.
Thanks all!
Dirt, Exploitation?... You can expect to see her in the next Sterling ad... over my dead body.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:02am PT
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Fantastic. I hope to be there with my Izabella one day.
Did you have a 3rd person for belaying, or did you solo everything?
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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"Did you have a 3rd person for belaying, or did you solo everything?"
No 3rd. The slabs of Whitehorse are pretty much a solo whether you have a belayer or not. Though I probably would have preferred to outright solo everything for expedience sake I basically short fixed the spots where I could and kept the pitches short. I've soloed both routes many, many times and by many different variations but I wasn't going to chance the unspeakable.
I considered putting a hundred pounds of rocks in her pockets and teach her to use a GriGri.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:21am PT
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that's a great trip, Jim, she's all smiles too! Priceless!!!
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