Gary Lee, RIP

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Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 30, 2008 - 07:57am PT
A friend called us yesterday and the sad news hit me like a rock I never saw coming.


From Associated Press:

Falling rock kills climber on Oregon's Mount Hood

HOOD RIVER, Ore. (AP) — A 55-year-old physician who had scaled Mount Hood died after being hit by falling rock on his way down, authorities said.

Mountaineers planned to start climbing Monday afternoon to retrieve the victim's body. The man, part of a climbing party, had descended to about 9,000 feet on the 11,239-foot peak when the accident happened Sunday.

The victim was identified as Dr. Gary Lee, a cancer specialist who had practiced in Eugene since 1984. His body was spotted Sunday evening by helicopter crews from the Oregon National Guard.

Lee, an experienced climber, was with his son, Devon
[Devin], when a rock dislodged from the ice above and hit him, the Hood River County sheriff's office said in a statement. He fell about 1,000 feet before coming to rest in an area of rock and ice above Eliot Glacier, the sheriff's office said.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 09:08am PT
Smugglers Notch, Vermont, 1979:

Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
Jul 30, 2008 - 09:09am PT
RIP and condolences to family and friends.
cowpoke

climber
Jul 30, 2008 - 09:16am PT
I'm very sorry to hear of the loss of your friend, Larry.
Double D

climber
Jul 30, 2008 - 10:39am PT
Sorry for your loss and my condolances to all family and friends.
nita

climber
chica from chico, I don't claim to be a daisy
Jul 30, 2008 - 11:18am PT
Chiloe, I saw that story on the web news yesterday, wondered if anyone here knew him.....so sad ..to find out he was your friend. ;-(

heartfelt sympathies to his family and friends.

May the love of those around you help you through the days ahead.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
Gary Lee was my long-ago partner and since then a good friend. From the opposite coast, I've followed his adventures and growing family over the years. I was deeply saddened to hear this news yesterday, that he died on a climb with his son.

After a while I went upstairs and scanned a bunch of ancient slides, from our climbs together on Pokomoonshine, Smugglers Notch, Cannon, Cathedral, Mt. Washington and Acadia. Back when Gary drove a Rabbit and had even worse fashion sense than I did, our 4-year-old daughter found him very charismatic. She'd shout "Gary Lee!" with delight when he pulled into our driveway. Suddenly the old slides seemed precious, like something to hang on to.

Gary was just a great guy. I doubt you'll find anyone who knew him who thought otherwise. I know he saved many lives.

L

climber
Dancing beneath a Full Moon on the Edge of Forever
Jul 30, 2008 - 02:12pm PT
Larry,

I'm so sorry to hear about the death of your friend and climbing partner. Much too soon to lose such a wonderful man...I hope you'll post some more of those slides.

My deepest sympathy to his family and friends.



Laura
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 04:54pm PT
from the Oregonian today:


Son recounts father's death on Mount Hood's Cooper Spur
Rescuers say not wearing a helmet was just one of a series of mistakes made by the climber


Wednesday, July 30, 2008
HELEN JUNG
The Oregonian Staff

Devin Lee, concentrated as he descended a Mount Hood snowfield Sunday afternoon: Drop a couple feet, plant the ice ax, drop another couple feet.

His technique -- honed over four years of climbing with his father, Dr. Gary Lee -- was the only thing Devin would let himself think about.

Just seconds earlier, he had seen his father struck by a watermelon-size boulder that came hurtling down the mountain. The 55-year-old cancer specialist tumbled down a steep gully and slid out of view.

As Devin descended, he came across the bicycle cap his father had been wearing. The Stanford University junior put it on and kept searching, he recalled Tuesday. But it would be several hours before rescue crews would locate the Eugene oncologist, who had been killed by blunt force trauma to the head.

Two days after the accident, a Portland Mountain Rescue veteran questioned the men's decision to climb without helmets.

All climbers on any Mount Hood route should wear helmets, said Steve Rollins, one of the rescue team members. "There is too much loose rock," he said.

Rollins also criticized the decision to descend via the dangerous Cooper Spur route, which is more technically difficult than the mountain's popular southside routes.

But Gary Lee, who had summited Mount Hood more than 40 times, knew the mountain "from all angles . . . and at all times of the year," said his wife, Dr. Stephanie Harris. And considering the size and speed of the boulder that struck Lee, his family doubted a helmet would have helped.

"That same question was in my head," Harris said. "On that particular day, he made that choice and felt that it wasn't necessary. . . . The reality in this particular instance? Chances are it wouldn't have made any difference."


A life of climbing

Climbing -- as well as hiking and skiing -- was a passion Gary Lee shared with his family. While Lee and Harris were dating in medical school, he introduced the Southern California girl to his beloved Mount Hood. She grew fearful at 8,000 feet, she recalled, and they turned around. But she went again -- although that time they got lost with two other students, overnighted on the mountain and came out a different route than planned.

Lee kept climbing, taking on peaks in the Himalayas and the Andes, his wife said, reserving about three weeks each year to climb. She always felt an undercurrent of fear, knowing the risks associated with mountain climbing.

As much as his practice meant to Lee, Harris said, so did his family, including his parents, Dr. Gilbert Prentiss Lee and Patricia Brownell Lee of Portland, and two brothers, Dr. Gilbert Brownell Lee of Portland and Granville Lee of Clackamas.

Helping his 21-year-old daughter, Alison, and his son develop their own independence was a priority, she said. Alison, an avid cross-country skier and a senior at Harvey Mudd College, persuaded him to pick up skate-skiing, which the father and daughter often did together. And when Devin was 16, Lee and his son started going on climbs together.

The treks were outings for the father and son to talk and through which Lee hoped to help instill "a warrior spirit" in his son. And about a year ago, Devin recalled, his father complimented him, telling him, "I can definitely see you grow up to be a warrior."


Boulder strikes

On Sunday, as the two descended, they found Mount Hood more exposed than they expected, Devin recalled. But when they had made it to the snowfield they felt they had reached relative safety. They unroped and put on their crampons.

But after proceeding a short while, Devin saw the boulder topple his father. Lee, his son recalled, did not utter a sound.

"I shouted after him," he said, watching as his father "was ragdolling down" the snowfield. Devin then descended after him, shouting out to anyone who might hear.

"All I could hear was my echo," he said.

But soon two hikers who had walked up a ridge past the top of the Cooper Spur trail heard Devin below them. Lonnie Feather and Bill Weismann made their way to Devin and called for help on their cell phones.

They stayed with Devin until evening, calling Harris, and taking him to his grandparents' Portland home.

"There is no way that I can possibly tell or express my gratitude to all of the climbers and rescue people," Harris said. "I don't even know how."

The accident is still setting in for the family. Devin has worn Lee's cap ever since the accident except for letting Alison wear it briefly.

"It's a little small for me," Devin acknowledged. "It doesn't matter."


A dangerous route

It is impossible to know whether a helmet would have saved Gary Lee. But rescuers also challenged the decision to descend Mount Hood's Cooper Spur route instead of the more popular and less challenging south route from Timberline Lodge.

"We were talking about it during the recovery," Rollins said. "No way would we go down Cooper Spur this time of year. It is way too dangerous, way past its prime."

Rollins also urged climbers to wear helmets, as well as pursue safer routes. The recovery put the lives of 12 climbers in jeopardy, he said, and was at the outer edge of the envelope for safe rescues and recoveries.

But Lee -- a world-class rower and avid skier, cyclist and swimmer -- always seemed able to do anything, his son said.

"He's living life like everyone wants to," he said, "but no one knows how."
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 30, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
hey there chiloe.. i am very sorry to hear the loss of your dear friend, and a family's beloved man.... my prayers for them all, as they take this hard trail....

considering what happened, it is perhaps well that his son was there--there will never be a question in his mind, as to what happened, or if "someone was there in time, etc" ....

and, it was his last moments to love his dad...

thank you for sharing you heart and all the notes... god bless...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jul 30, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
Bummer.
Hang in there Larry.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
Hang in there Larry.

Well I've got the easy job, I know.

Patrick, Nita, eKat, DD, Eric, Laura, Neebee, Roy -- thanks for kind thoughts and words.

It's like Gary's still there same as ever in my mind, or in all these photos. Just not out there in the world.

Brunosafari

Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
Jul 30, 2008 - 08:05pm PT

I'm broken hearted for you Chilo, Devin and survivors.

I'm on the east side of the Cascades ~2hours from Eugene, but my home is open to you if you if you find yourself in Oregon. Also I have two sons in Eugene who are at your service, I'm sure.

Bruce Adams 541-350-3139
Gary

climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Jul 30, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
That's tough, Chiloe.

RIP to a fellow climber.
goatboy smellz

climber
colorado
Jul 30, 2008 - 08:44pm PT
It’s always rough losing a good friend Larry...keep going through the photos, they will help you remember the good times and lift your spirit.
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Jul 31, 2008 - 12:17am PT
Oh, damn but I'm sorry to hear this. I didn't know Gary, but he sounds like a great guy and a good friend to have had. All my best to you Larry and especially Devin and the rest of the family.

I don't know Steve Rollins either, but I think he should keep his opinion to himself. Helmets don't do much against watermelons, and descending the Cooper Spur is pretty common if your car is parked on that side of the mountain. Who's going to bring two cars and do a 60 mile car shuttle just to descend the south side? People get killed on that route too. It's just bad luck, wrong place at the wrong time, and that "he brung it on himself" stance is just a wee bit callous, hurtful, and not necessarily accurate.

edit: I just saw some recent pictures of the route, it does look pretty ugly right now. I think it was fall all back in the day when I did it with BVB and we had snow the whole way, but the top is some ugly looking choss right now. Sounds like they went up the Sunshine Route, which is the other moderate outing on that side of the mountain, and descended the Cooper Spur. Who wouldn't want to traverse the peak?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
A few very ordinary climbing photos. Had to smile, looking through these.

Frankenstein Cliffs, 1979:



Last Chance, Pokomoonshine, 1980:



Otter Cliffs, Acadia, 1981:

Alpine Raven

Mountain climber
Eugene, OR
Jul 31, 2008 - 06:14pm PT
Larry,

I'm saddened for the loss of your friend, Gary Lee. There are alot of tears being shed here in Eugene for him. There is a lot of disbelief that someone with Gary's considerable gift of caring and loving for people is now gone. Gary was the oncologist for a friend of mine who just had a lumpectomy two weeks ago. She called in tears Monday morning to tell me. Thanks for uploading the news reports and especially the photos. I'll pass them on. Mt. Hood is a beautiful volcano, and she takes her toll. Boulders can come down anywhere on that peak. We climb and we take our chances in doing something we love.

Larry, I also wanted to say that Gary's wife, Stephanie, is one my daughter's Nordic Ski coaches at South Eugene High. I've had a chance to meet her a few times. Another fine soul she is. I'll mention the forum to her.

Take care,
David
Jules with a capital J

Social climber
Eugene,OR
Jul 31, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
Hi Larry,
My name is Julie, I live in Eugene. I work at the hospital that Gary has worked at since 84. I have worked with him since 87.
I am at a loss for words in these past few days to describe the grief I am feeling. First shock, denial, sadness, anger...you name it, its open and too real.
Gary was my friend and colleague. We shared a love of the outdoors, sports, and oncology medicine. We shared stories, adventures, and family life over the years we have known eachother.
I can't believe that he is gone.. it seems unreal.
I didn't get to say goodbye, or even Hey Gary thank you so much for all you gave to me,all of us over these many years!!

He was always encouraging me to live life to the fullest.
He was smart, dry witted, and gentle.
He cared for his patients with a gentle, knowledgable quiet wisdom.
You are very fortunate to have such a great friend.
I joined this forum primarily to say thank you for posting this blog.. and especially these awesome photos, at first I just didn't recognize him, but woooooo, its really Gary. I don't know why, but I recognized his hands.. in the photo where he is looking at an instrument..
Thank you so much, if you have more Id love to see them- I have been sharing them with other staff here on the floor..
This is a very difficult time for everyone here, and seeing your notes, photos and comments help me so much, again thank you,

Sincerely,
Julie Mitchell
When I climb Mt Whitney again in a few weeks Gary will be with me every step of the way!!
Geno

Trad climber
Reston, VA
Aug 2, 2008 - 06:19am PT
Chiloe,

I am very sorry to hear the news about your friend. Good friends and climbing partners are few in life. Take care. Gene
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