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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 12, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
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I got some much needed rest in the valley for a few days and it was time for round 2 on El Cap. OUr plan was to fix 2 pitches on the first afternoon, climb the Muir to the top of mammoth terraces the next, come down the fixed lines and haul the day after that. I ran our plan by Tom and he thought that sounded really ambitious. Apparently most people choose to bypass these pitches and either do freeblast or just jug the lines. We ignore the good intended advice of the people at the bridge and set off to do the Muir from the bottom.
We fix the first 2 and come down psyched to get going on this stellar route. The next day we almost make our goal but fall short by a few pitches. No wories we swing over and rap the fixed lines. We will come back the next day and haul to the top of 8 and blast from there.
some of the climbing on day 2 not many photos this day :(
sweet hardware!!
We manage to haul and get 2 pitches past Mammoth for a total of 4 pitches and a lot of hauling. We are happy about our effort.
leading to mammoth nice growth on this pitch
pitch above mammoth
The next day we wake up and get after it our goal is to do at least 4 pitches, we end up doing 6, sweet we are ahead of schedule. We bivied above camp4 where some nose climbers were bivied. They had some really neato lazer thingys and gave us a cool show that night!! Thanks Guys
Eric on the 10+ or C1+++ flare thanx for leading that one buddy
Photo Tom Evans
photo Tom Evans
some cool foliage anyone know what they are?
ledge shot
The next day starts off super casual which would be the theme for this route, no alarm in the morning, wake up when we wake up and start to climb. We fired on all cylinders and managed another 6this day! We are in the heart of the route now, the amazing corners!! So, So sweet!!!! By the way we ran into Rob Miller this day who was doing some cleaning of the route after his amazing free effort.
We settle in for the night at the "ledge" on pitch 26. Half of this ledge seems to be held together with webbing and a couple of old pins!
check out the block held together with slings, fun!
We wake up at 10 am and start climbing by 11. The pitches above this ledge are the best on the route amazingly perfect, thin corners.
photo Tom Evans
The last pitch, "I don't know what to do!"
We somehow manage to climb all the way to the top this day and bivied there.
The next morning we assess our rations and find we have 4 gallons of water and enough food for another couple of days. I run into a member of the Timmy O'neal party and donate our extra water to them.
The east ledges feel like dejavu and go really smooth. The rest of the day goes like this:pizza, beer, Elcap meadow more beer. We spend a few more days in the valley hangin out. Then back home to the Eastside and back to work. El Cap, see you in the spring Mescalito perhaps...........
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Oct 12, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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Suuuuuuper cool! Thanks again!
Michael
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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Oct 12, 2007 - 09:46pm PT
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You make me want to climb a wall. Great post!
-Dirka
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Oct 12, 2007 - 10:29pm PT
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sweet pix and tr.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oct 13, 2007 - 12:26pm PT
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Nice pictures, nice send.
Climbing El Cap with a friend.
On who you depend.
Water left at the end.
Thanks for the TR
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Oct 13, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
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Is that plant not a variety of Echevaria? They are common garden plants here in New Mexico. Very hardy and drought resistant. Congratulations again on a fine pair of climbs!
Michael
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Oct 13, 2007 - 04:03pm PT
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Nice TR. Thanks- a shower of climbing pics during this recent drought.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
Eastern Sierra
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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Ed, those are beautiful, thanks for the post.
Steve
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Domingo
Trad climber
Ann Arbor, MI
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Oct 13, 2007 - 06:39pm PT
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That looks like a damn beautiful route.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 13, 2007 - 07:10pm PT
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hey there... say, this is great.. thanks for the share.. my computer downloads very slow.. so it take me awhile to check out all these wonderful trips... i always love looking up at el cap... ever since i was little, it was so regal and special, standing as if a guard of something very special-- of course, YOSEMITE
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 14, 2007 - 01:42am PT
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Michael, Debbie says Echevaria needs a warmer climate than California... it's more like your part of the world than the Sierra... she's got some in her garden here but probably frets a lot about them when in the winter.
Nice thread GoMZ (Steve)
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Oct 14, 2007 - 02:07am PT
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Ed, thanks for the clarification! I don't know that much about plants and am always grateful to learn more. The plant you linked to was beautiful, great photography. I find it amazing that sort of succulent would grow up on a cliff. Thanks again.
Michael
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gomer-pyle
Big Wall climber
I am everywhere
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sweet bump...
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Thanks for the awesome Tr and pics it makes me want to start climbing again after a 6 week hiatus.......Thank You.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Yo.. really liked your on the route shots... I did the route with Mr. Tech in 89 and found it to be a beautiful line with great cracks and wonderful pitches... of course TT lead most of the route and managed to haul me up too... great time! Thanks for the report!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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very...cool...stuff.
good job!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Another good report with killer pix.
Thank you brother, you make us all miss the Captain.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Great tr, man. Keep taking pictures this summer.
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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