Discussion Topic |
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 30, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
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Nagasaki, at the Fin.
Drumstick Direct, Turkey Tail.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 30, 2007 - 07:54pm PT
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Valley:
Twilight Zone
1096
Steppin' Out (over rated in the guide)
Childhoods End
Gold Dust / Duster
Good Book
Waverly Wafer (no way that is 10c!!)
Cromagnon Capers
Josh:
Imaginary Voyage
Perpetual Motion
Rubicon
Desert Song (first pitch)
Squatters Right
Semi Tough
Panther Crack
Cedrics Deep Sea Fish Market
Boortemus
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:00pm PT
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Lord Caffeine
first pitch of Speed of Life
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:09pm PT
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I haven't been on it yet, but I hear Cramming is pretty good.
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Duke-
Trad climber
SF, aka: Dirkastan
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
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Fracture @ the Loaf. It just aches to be climbed.
-Dirka
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
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Cramming
Catchy
Vanishing Point
Ying Yang (Actually, this one terrifies me.)
Ten Years After
Independence Center
Serenity Crack
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:41pm PT
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Last time I did Waverly I had my left hand in the crack and my right hand on the arete and slapped my way up it..... moderate 12b
Ladyhands edit: if you are diminutive that upper crack probably feels pretty solid.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:43pm PT
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Sorry...still hard. Maybe not as hard. But hard. :-(
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 30, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
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The Wave at IC; Gunsmoke at Maverick -- two of the best leads I've done.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 30, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
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Second on Vanishing Point and p1 Yin Yang. Little Wing. I just posted a pic of the Fracture on another thread:
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 30, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
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Brutal cupped hands at the top of Five and Dime for me. Had some lovely gobies. What a great route and a fine 10d.
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stella
climber
cali
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Aug 30, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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Tahoe:
The Thing
New Moon
Karl's Gym
Quest For Glory
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Melvin Mills
Trad climber
Albuquerque NM
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:00pm PT
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I second the Wave
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
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Catchy
the Fracture
Aja:
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
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Compared to some real contenders, The fracture Although a beautiful climb is a little soft compared to some of the others, yes the crux might be .10d but the rest is a lot mellower. The .10d on serenity has to be one of the easiest and that 1st pitch of " whaatever" it is on the cookie is another give me.
Real .10d is harder then .11a........
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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I second that Mark. Like real 5.9 can be harder than 10b.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
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and 5.9+...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:24pm PT
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10d is defentilty a contenscious grade.
But Waverly? Vedauwoo .10b-lite, really.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:25pm PT
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And Indian Creek 11+. ;-)
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
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well, you said it mark. The crux of the fracture is .10d. Just one move though. I'd be tempted to say the same is true of Catchy.
There are some real ass kicker ten deez though.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:48pm PT
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Man, I thought Waverly Wafer was so easy. Not even 10c. But I have small hands and did it when I was strong and on a roll. Probably would feel 11 now.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 30, 2007 - 11:52pm PT
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Oh melissa, like Fk this st on catwall?
hyark!
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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I like the NH "5.10+" genre: Recluse is one. Many, many many others.
Last weekend I sikked a friend on 2 pitches @ Fairview Dome, the 1st two of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Reid has them at .9 & .10b. Head on up there and tell me what you think.
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ct
climber
CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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Days of Heaven, Rock of Ages, RMNP.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:21am PT
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I thought Little Wing was hard, and it got to my head when making the first, in-your-face moves off of that thin, exposed ledge.
Five and Dime has always had my number, same as Copper Penny over there. The times I've been there I've left that crag feeling worked and defeated, but never demoralized.
One day at the Cookie some guy told me that Hardd was a .10d, so I gave it a shot. No dice.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:33am PT
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if you're looking for demoralized, try .10b at Arch. har!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2007 - 08:45am PT
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Slobmonster:
I like the NH "5.10+" genre
Here's one from Cathedral a few weeks back, Abracadabra, with wootles leading it clean though not easy. Where he's at the crack overhangs and bottoms out into a shallow, rounded flare.
Melvin Mills:
I second the Wave
My first lead at Indian Creek. I thought that one was Cosmic.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Aug 31, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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Little Wing, 5 & Dime, Vanishing Point,
Harvest, Interceptor (City of Rocks)
Left Torpedo Tube (Vedauwoo)
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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 10:53am PT
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Chiloe -- I had forgot about that one. Abracadabra is an SOB.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:05am PT
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Yeah, I thought so. Too shallow to jam and too rounded to layback. The feet weren't any good either, and I wasn't impressed with the pro. Lucky thing wootles had the sharp end.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:10am PT
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My favorites on Whitehorse, the megaclassic Ethereal and the fingercrack on Sleeping Beauty.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Aug 31, 2007 - 11:40am PT
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Chiloe: Where on Cathedral is Abracadabra?
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:01pm PT
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cramming seemed to be the hardest climb that wasn't a bad size that I've ever been on. the fact that I was expecting it to feel "5.10" whatever that means did not help.
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ChrisW
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:06pm PT
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Cramming was the hardest 5.10c crack i have ever done. Can't say i actually "Free" climbed it.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:30pm PT
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Serenity
Rt Side Folly
Ten Years After
East Corner at the Leap
Torpedo and Loose Lips at Paradise Forks
1st pitch of Moritorium
Lizard Marmalade Direct at Mt. Lemmon
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:38pm PT
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Chiloe: Where on Cathedral is Abracadabra?
In my photo, the first pitch of Intimidation is that corner just to our left. They start the same place.
Hey, it's not 5.10+ (just a stout 5.9), but have you done that linkup of 2nd pitch Antline to the Bicycle Route hand crack? Quite something!
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:49pm PT
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Nope haven't done that yet but do remember Tomcat talking about the Bicycle route. Will have to add that to the evergrowing list!
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kuan
Sport climber
CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 12:55pm PT
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The only one I've gotten the courage to hop on is OZ in Tuolumne, and it is beautiful! (3rd pitch is a crack)
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Marshall
climber
bay area
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:29pm PT
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more pictoral evidence needed.
finger lickin:
waverly
rubicon at jtree
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 01:45pm PT
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Both the first and second pitch of Moritourium are classic and I think they are real 10d's. Second pitch, lots of stemming if I remember to a sloping top out, yikes.
I love the fracture, but it is like the serenity crux, punch through a move or two and it's over, no classic long term suffering like some of the others.
On the short but sweet 10d's- The first real pitch on south by southwest on lower spire. Totally intimidating exposure, a couple of thin moves to a thank god jug where you can chalk up on overhanging rock with hundreds of feet of air under your feet. One of the best.
Tom
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 31, 2007 - 02:19pm PT
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I'd second the nominations for "10 Years After". Great climb! The cruxes are kinda problem solving, with sh#t for feet, and definitely .10d, rather than super steep technical jamming. Great climb in a cool area. Good stuff!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 31, 2007 - 02:28pm PT
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4th pitch of Cap'm Pissgums in the stronghold. Burly.
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Aug 31, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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The Prow at Paradise Forks. This felt to me like one of those 10+'s that is harder than 11-. Great route! Come to think of it, all the Flagstaff Trad climbing seems stout! You guys and Gals around there don't give up the 5.11 grade very easy! I like it!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Aug 31, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
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I always considered the Prow .11-!
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Aug 31, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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Jaybro, I swear the guide had it listed as 10+, maybe not. I know we were expecting 10+ when we climbed it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Well, I belayed Paul Davidson on the FA of the Prow and remember it as being 5.11- for his hand size and solid 5.11 for my larger mits. AZ is notorious for stiff ratings but that one ain't 5.10.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oh yeah, NO_, I was agreeing with you, (and, Steve G) and not the book!
Once upon a time Horn's Mother, Boardwalk and Bellcrack, in Vedauwoo were all rated .10+, now that's a tough room!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2007 - 11:51am PT
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I always found it funny that Catchy is rated .10d while around the corner you have Waverly at .10c.
How about Lean Years? Facey moves to a thin crack, Great (but grassy now).
PS, Great shots, Marshall!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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10D crack is often technique-y,
While 10C crack is more often than not just plain old burly.
Don't ax me to esplain that; just a personal impression...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Yup, second pitch of Horn's mom (.10c, I think), not a hard move on it, but burl, burl, all the way.
".10d's are there to make or break egos," Doug Cairns.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ain't Meatgrinder 10C?
Burl, burl...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Burl, Burl,
toil and trouble
Tendons strain
and handjams fumble
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Stem & protect!
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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the prow's totally .11-....great route, though.
Torpedo and Loose Lips are sweet, both .10d
The Fox @ RR...classic line.
Our Father- last pitch
Red Zinger @ RR- link the pitches or do 'em separate, both pitches are incredible.
Rubicon is .10c, not .10d....but no less classic!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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3rd pitch, left side of Slab Happy Pinnacle: 10D hands under a bombay flare.
One of my fave obscure valley thrutches, ...oh, how delicious.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Quivering Quill at Turkey Rocks. The Diving Board in Eldo. The second pitch (handcrack) of Wunch's Dihedral. All true 10d's that are often mis-labelled 11.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i've done so many 10d cracks i can't even remember half of 'em. but i'm pretty sure finger lickin' would rise to the top as my all-time hands-down desert island 10d crack. that sucker has it all. waverly wafer would be my second choice...but of course it's only 10c, and so, sadly, does not make the cut.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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The Diving Board in Eldo.
That used to be one of my favorites. Early one morning I climbed it as a way of psyching up or calming down before a big oral defense in grad school. Felt like a gunfighter, walking into the exam room with cut hands and a smile.
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Steve G, that must have been somthin to see the first ascent of the Prow @ PF done with all chocks! Hardcore!
Anyone know how long it took for a second ascent of the Prow and was it with chocks, only?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I think that it got repeated fairly quickly after we did it. I will see Paul soon, so I'll report back if this thread persists. Basalt takes some very solid hex placements and that route was well protected from the start. We used to have that place all to ourselves with not a bolt or chalk mark to be found. The Cwm is a fantastic place also with It's a Beautiful Day (5.8), best handcrack at that grade ever, and Tralfamador (5.9+). For 10d-ish try Canary Crack.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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No one has yet mentioned Axis aka Blotto at Arch. Really cool jammin up a striking flake, then some interesting face funk traverse to a just barely adequate rap anchor.
Classic,
Peter
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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beegee @ (pinnacle peak)
prow @ (PF) (but my hands are girlish small-3.5" ala 2nd of Dream Weaver kills me)
odyssey @ (reef) rated 11-, but our party of 3 gave 10+ and thought the 1" section "5.10" was stiffer and certainly would have been harder without the few foot holds.
waverly (cookie) might not be that hard- I could grab the arete
catchy- (cookie)
abra's 3rd pitch (stronghold)
pissgum's 4th pitch (stronghold)
canary crack @ (cwm) might be - I just remember my super trundle at base of that one- killt a 50' pine tree.
jay- does direct start of Jump Back Jack @ GM make 10+?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The fourth pitch of Cap'm Pissgums was fully 5.11 when I first did it. Fig and I did the second ascent on a rack of nuts alone! After clipping a fixed bong in the depths of the Captain's angry eye, I climbed up and down repeatedly trying to get anything to protect the yawning inevitable out left. After wearing through the seat of my pants and getting nothing but a sideways 8 1/2 stopper and a crappy #8 hex in the overhanging flared crack, I went for it, all the way around the corner! The fixed bong guaranteed no escape from the gloomy hole below so the jaunt was pretty exciting. We even got the first free ascent (with a top rope) off to the right of the original three bolt ladder.
The first ascent party (Dave Baker and Mark Axen) busted their asses to get within spitting distance of the summit, all free, only to be forced to drill three aid bolts to top out. The route was named What A Burn for quite a while until Mark Axen raised up the Zap comics hero. Cap'm Pissgums and his Pervert Pirates is required local reading. LOL
Direct start to Jump Back Jack is 10+ for sure.
Abracadaver's third should still be 5.11a especially if you run the second and third together for the best challenge.
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rick d
Social climber
tucson, az
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Steve-
the third time I did the 3rd pitch of Abra -Scott DeCapio lead it with 4 pieces and thought 10c. I thought, harder, but not that much harder. 3 times I've been suckered into the 2nd pitch, and 3 times suffered in slings looking at the thin crack. Stringing the 2nd and 3rd would be super manly - could be worse with OW after the thin crack. Mike I guess had no issues with the FA except the bolts according to DB!
Pissgums is stiff, but it is a good size (2") for my hands. I was cocked in chimneying and jambing it and was solid (with Bill Lefevre in 1992). No where near as hard as the start and we finished by pulling on bolts (vs the free var).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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No prob on that Axis anchor Peter.
I punched in a 3/8" bolt next to those mungified pins about 20 years ago.
Werner said, at the time: "why, huh?"
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flyingkiwi1
Trad climber
Seattle WA
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Sloe Children at Index is to 10d as Miles Davis is to jazz.
fk
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ditto that, even though the crux is a chimney/stemming problem.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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The guy I was following on that went right side in to make it more difficult. He neglected to mention that to me. I went right side in too, monkey see, monkey do. Ugh.
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bob
climber
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Second pitch of Shambles in T Meadows. Second pitch of CW Hicks Granite Mountain
A few at the Waterfall in Sedona that I can't remember the names of but they were super! Wait, was it Big Dubes Big Boobs, Black and Tan, and one other that.......shoot, can't recall. Grandma's Challenge at Eldo. 10c, but manoman that thing felt a wee tad more difficult.
Bob J.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Final Exam?
It sure looks pretty, but what hike for that pitch!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Not in Southern California
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Blotto yes, what a great and classic 10d crack. Do not (I repeat Do Not) attempt pitch 2, which nearly took my life in 1977. It is a (or was, I should say) super dirty and loose sandbag. Stick with the first pitch.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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How about the ".10d" pitch on Don Juan Wall. What a beaut...and burly too.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Scuffy mentioned 'interceptor' and 'harvest' at the city which i second. although isn't interceptor .11a?
El Matador at the tower seemed hard, but i think i started the stem to early, also mr. clean....(yeah i yammed the last 20')
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/9338/dsc01659zv2.jpg
jah man anyone??
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Interceptor was called .11 when I first did it.
are Mr Clean and El mat .10d, now? hee-hee!
guess it's time to put Horn's mother back on that list, then. har!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2007 - 02:25pm PT
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I think Catchy Corner is pretty good for .10d :p
Arm's Race in the Meadows. I hear it's worthy ...
And WOW, that pic of the Tower...what, did that thing suck the gear off your rack?
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Sep 10, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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(checked in newest book w/ frank on the cover) 'mr. clean' is .11a, but the matador is called .10d, which i thought was alot harder than 'direct southwest' .11b (best pitch on the tower??), and harder than 'back to montana' .10d.
what about the 'danse macabre'? anyone climbed it?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 10, 2007 - 12:53am PT
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Pat, The 'Danse' is definitely stout! Led it in 80/81 and had to 'Take a biscuit,'-archaic brit slang for hanging on a nut.
Direct Southwest really might be the best pitch on the tower, inmho!
El Mat 10d? now there's some humor.
"Topo said 5.11, seemed like A-1 to me," Frank P Sanders (not specifically about that route.)
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Sep 10, 2007 - 01:40am PT
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i want to check out the 'danse', one on the list that i havn't gotten on. hoping to get over there soon...
'captian nemo' .10d in veduawoo seemed pretty hard; although the swinging whipper is one not to be missed! (a bugaloo attempt)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Sep 10, 2007 - 02:43am PT
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I heard a lot of loud excitment from you guys over there when I was falling off Max factor around the corner!
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Sep 10, 2007 - 03:00am PT
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I have to put my vote in again for Ten Years After, in the Falls Amphitheater. Beautiful climb! Just climbs incredibly nice.
Gold Rush is pretty sweet too! I enjoyed watching Karl style the hell outta that thing this weekend doing most of the climb using stemming, touching the crack very little. He styled the crux using stemming moves.
It was a good weekend all around with plenty of awesome cracks climbed!
Cheers!
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bob
climber
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Sep 10, 2007 - 10:54am PT
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What's the one to the left of the start of the RNWFHalfdome? Looks like a very nice climb and as I recall is 10d. Maybe Bridwell route?
Bob J.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sep 10, 2007 - 05:02pm PT
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That would be Final Exam, 10D fist.
Not that I'd know, but someday...
(mentioned up thread I think)
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Sep 10, 2007 - 06:41pm PT
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Have to agree with you Mark: "Cramming" at 5.10d is a heck of a lot harder than "Vanishing Point" at 5.10d. But I think "boundary climbs" - those that define the upper end of the 5.10 grade - are always tougher than 5.11a's at the bottom of the 5.11 spectrum after 5.11 has been firmly established.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 10, 2007 - 07:50pm PT
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"Gold Rush is pretty sweet too! I enjoyed watching Karl style the hell outta that thing this weekend doing most of the climb using stemming, touching the crack very little. He styled the crux using stemming moves. "
Unfortunatly, that was the much easier "Gold Dust" but thanks! The Top rope always brings out the best in me
Peace
karl
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Sep 10, 2007 - 08:01pm PT
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Thanks for that clarification, Karl.
I'd already formed the impression that you enjoy stemming around
and past cruxes, but stemming Gold Rush seemed a little bit
too magical.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
Bozeman
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:21pm PT
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how about the first pitch of the 'saber' the old kor route, 'spank the monkey'.
that ones kinda stout??
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
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The old guidebooks have El Matador at 10d.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nicely sculpted!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Nobody has mentioned Lucky Streaks! While a one move wonder no doubt still a great route. The Oz traverse I believe is rated .10d as well.
And The Prow at Paradise Forks might have been .10+ in the very first guide but the current guide (that was first published in the early 90's I believe) calls it .11- and its still not a gimmie at that rating.
Torpedo I believe is .10+ at the Forks. Short but fun.
Loving the crack pictures ITT!!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 27, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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I am really surprised to not see the right side of the folly. was this climb wiped out by rock fall? It was one of the classic 10d in my book.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 28, 2008 - 12:44am PT
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Uhhh...marty, it's mentioned in the first and third messages - and I didn't even read beyond the 3rd.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jan 28, 2008 - 01:25am PT
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Plz excuse my ignorance but...
with all the rock fall, did 'Mr. Natural' on the apron get nuked ?
Not the hardest, what maybe .10b/c ?
But what a beauty!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Jan 28, 2008 - 10:29am PT
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Greg, you are correct, my miss. I actually forgot it was called the good book as well.
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adventureboy
Trad climber
Bellingham,wa
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Jan 28, 2008 - 11:04am PT
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Sentry box in squish eh.... maybe a real man 10d i guess as it qualifies only barely at 12a.
Index though Dr Sniff 10d classic make or break unprotected layback
Sloe Children 10d makes the "Tube" seem tame
Zoom 10d keep your sh#t together
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coward
Trad climber
Boulder, Wyoming
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Jan 28, 2008 - 12:25pm PT
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Crack of Fear at Lumpy Ridge: that second pitch must be every bit of 10d!
Also, Javelin in Cracked Canyon.
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Salathiel
Trad climber
South Beach, FL
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:25pm PT
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What about Mr. Natural? That has to be one of my all time favorite cracks EVA! Especially those rusty trusty bolts at the end.
I liked lazy Bum, but it's a little too short.
my .02
blur
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:32pm PT
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Mr. Natural is still the same. I did it last summer, no rockfall damage. Not .10d though, more 5.9 to a move or two of .10c. One of the best fingercracks I've ever done, and easily the best in the .10 range. If you approach on Apron Jam, might want at least two pieces (or more) in the 4 camalot range. We had one. It was puckering.
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'sup
Trad climber
da ditch
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Jan 28, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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Waverly Wafer 10d/11a? I thought a climb was rated by its hardest move. Seemed like 5.9 hands to a rest in a pod, a rattly finger lock to sustained 10c thin hands.
When Jim, Barry, and Bev put this up in 1970 what did THEY rate it?
"what is this?"
"this is now, now"
"what happened to then?"
"missed it"
"when?"
"just now"
"when will THEN be NOW?"
"soon"
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2008 - 04:58pm PT
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Senator Garrison, the Right Side of the Folly is still alive, although the first [long] 5.9 pitch is in the rock-fall zone.
Durn good climbin' ...
And speaking of Mr. Natural, make it .10d by climbing one of my fav's, the approach pitch called Dr. Feelgood!
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bob
climber
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Jan 28, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
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2nd crack pitch of Shambles. Really good crack climbing though it has a two bolt face finish. VERY good.
Bob J.
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Salathiel
Trad climber
South Beach, FL
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Jan 29, 2008 - 10:23am PT
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I thought mr natural was harder than 10c, but it may be because my size 13's don't fit in the narrow crack, so I was forced to smear. I watched Arno Ilgner down lead it when we realized our single 60 meter wouldn't get us to the next rap station. That was a fun day. I actually fell twice on the 5.8 section leading into mr natural, then dialed the rest...I was being towed of course.
Blur
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 29, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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The Wafer is 10c, always has been.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Bump as good climbing tread. This topic stimulate me to climb since I red it- many stelar Yosemite cracks ( few 10d I climbed before 2007 )
I put the routes in order from easiest to hardest as they appeared to me ( very subjective but it interesting to see other climbers views too) :
1.Serenity Crack (p3)
2.Lucky Streaks (p3)
3.Catchy
4.English Breakfast - 10c, but harder than Catchy and Serenity
5. 1-st pitch of Moratorium
6. Gold Dust
7. Manana
8. Independence Center p3 -10d
9. Lazy Bum
10. Book of Revelations, p1
11.The Thief
12. Five & Dime
13. Waverly Wafer ( 10c, but this is my place in 10d list)
14. Memo From Lloyd [TM]
15. Axis aka Blotto at Arch
16. 2nd pitch of Moratorium
17 . Ten Years After
18. Cramming
19.Ying Yang ( never led, TR only)
20. Steppin' Out ( never led, TR only)
21.Good Book (p3)
22. Rostrum 10d pitch (p5)
23. Mark of the Art
24. Lord Caffeine[TM] - this one the more you climb the easier become
25. Finger Lickin' ( this is felt like 11b for me. tried 4 times and never redpointed)
Not many left from the list ( never tried) : Little Wing, Vanishing Point, 1096, Simian sex, Olga's trick, Speed of life p1 [TM] , Final Exam and last pitch on Astroman
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Jack Burns
climber
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Pente
Scarface
Andrea's Waffle Hotline
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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east corner at the leap is appealing
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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The Wafer is 10c, always has been.
yep steve. that's what i thought every time i led it. might feel a bit easier on the tr.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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In honor of the upcoming Woodson shindig:
Digit's Delight
The Bat Crack
Jaws (might be .11a)
Left Long's Crack
and of course, at The Needles there's Gorilla Warfare. That one's great!
-Nick
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jaws? it's like .10b at most....
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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East Corner at the leap is good, the crux felt harder than .10d to me, but that's not unusual!
Forks: Torpedo and Loose Lips hover in that .10d-11a range and are fun climbs. I think the prow is .11a, dunno if I've seen it rated .10d. I'll look in my old orange Cheap Way to Fly at home.
Anyone mention Lizard Marmalade Direct on Mt. Lemmon? It's a crack in that Mt. Lemmon sort of way..
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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I forgot all about Olgas......and Karl thanks for the correction. I coundnt figure out how I had to fist jam Goldrush all those years when you danced up with stems!
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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I'll compromise with ya, Jaybro: Jaws is 'Vedauwoo .10b'
The 10's in Vedauwoo are definitely humbling...
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Byran
climber
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Rites of Spring near Bishop is my favorite 10d I can think of. Not really hard for the grade, but a must-do for anyone seeking good 5.10 crack climbing.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Hey Medusa - You really think that Heart of Darkness rig is .10d? I think the Indian Creek crowd would laugh at that rating...
I'd call it 5.9+. I mean, how much harder is it than Invisibilty lessons?
Granted it depends on your hand size but the thing is easy for me. Heck, Shock Therapy up in the same area is .10c and it is much harder...
Cheerio
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