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Messages 101 - 120 of total 174 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ChrisW

Trad climber
boulder, co
Mar 5, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
I think people get confused between "offwith" and "squeeze". If u can get any part of your body in the crack, it's a squeeze. Otherwise, it's a offwith. If you are chicken winging, it's definetly a squeeze. At least that's what Pat Ament told me when i was younger.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 5, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
Definitions are guidelines. By that definition a finger crack is a squeeze.
Disagree about the chicken wing thing too. There are places you can chickwing where you can't get your trunk in. It's not a squeeze till all parts are enveloped.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 5, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
Tormentor, Queen Rock






Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
Great shots, Tom! Illustrates Jaybro's points from the post above (with which I agree, by the way).
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Mar 5, 2007 - 03:40pm PT
Nice sequence TK, really shows the varying stages of physical agony needed to surmount the climb.
scuffy b

climber
The town that Nature forgot to hate
Mar 5, 2007 - 03:55pm PT
Turning around is always so much fun!
Oh damn, I got what I wanted...
3rd guess?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 5, 2007 - 05:12pm PT
Pinnacle Dihedral


Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 5, 2007 - 05:25pm PT
That is so cool!! can't beat the full (1/2?) pirouette!
I'm gonna have to raise me some dental floss!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Mar 5, 2007 - 05:42pm PT
That's a purty fancy word you got there Jay...

He did start left side in, so I guess it was, in fact, a full...

Montana is waiting for you Jay ;)
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Mar 5, 2007 - 05:51pm PT
lemon_boy

climber
Mar 5, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
yo cuckwalla,

can you be a bit more specific? i have climbed quite a bit throughout the canyon.
headintheclouds

climber
Mar 5, 2007 - 11:16pm PT
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Mar 6, 2007 - 10:51am PT
Lemon_boy The route is probably 2-2.5 miles past the cabin on the west/right hand wall. Past the PROW area and you park at the bottom of a drainage and hike up the drainage. There are no other climbs up there except for this one. A guy that has been doing some developing out there, Kent Pease, showed it to me. He also did the FA. Next time I’m out there I’ll take a picture of it.
Cheers,
Jesse
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 6, 2007 - 11:04am PT
my left shoulder is feeling better and started flexing while I was looking at these pictures... the call of the wide?
lemon_boy

climber
Mar 6, 2007 - 11:44am PT
cuckawalla,

yeah, i've climbed with the sender quite a bit out there. i think you are talking about a route called 'amplitude'. i have a picture of it, i will email it to you at your address listed on this website. it starts off through a short bit of slight looseness, then quickly transitions into a perfect #4 camalot splitter, then out a big splitter roof that is 4.5 to 5 camalot (but it is wierd and wavy inside, more like a granite crack, which makes it harder to shuffle through), then it goes up into a squeeze. sorry about the long sentence.

just to the left is a splitter finger to thin hands crack that goes big hands to fists through the left side of the roof and ends up at the same anchors.
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Mar 6, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
Thats the Route. Sender is always down there in the summer, most times by himself.
Drop me a line if you are ever going down there.
Jesse.
deerpit

climber
Mar 6, 2007 - 12:15pm PT
Cool pics everybody. Thanks! I just got registered onto the site yesterday, so maybe I'll try and figure out how to post some photos of my own. I might have a couple of pics of some fatties (cracks that is) laying around. Hey Lemon Boy - I'm guessing your someone I've roped up for the wide ones a good bit?

dean
lemon_boy

climber
Mar 7, 2007 - 04:14pm PT
here's a shot of satan's personal trainer getting ready to do the triple alternating levitation gig to get through the roof of 'amplitude'. he's warming up on the 4 camalot splitter leading into it. on one of his attempts he took an enormous upside down fall and smashed into the wall below the roof.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Mar 7, 2007 - 04:36pm PT
You got a nice shot there, lemon_boy.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Mar 7, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
"smashed", love it. is the one to the left good too?
Messages 101 - 120 of total 174 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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