Glacier point apron ??

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Francis

climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 7, 2003 - 01:39am PT

Hello, climbing in the valley this weekend and would like to try out some new routes in the 5.8-10 range. I have never climbed at Glacier point apron and thought this might be a classic spot to explore. I just read a forum about Glacier pt from Nov.2002 about the safety at this area.

I guess I would like some recommendations as to current safety there and classic routes.

Point beyond to Angel's approach looks good.

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Oct 7, 2003 - 10:41pm PT

The far West and East of the Apron are more dangerous than the center area. All large faces in Yosemite are prone to rockfall and Apron Center is probably a bit worse than others, but not as bad as many fear.

Point Beyond to Angel's is a good route. The bolts on the last pitch are hard to find 1/4 inchers and the anchor on Lucifer's is a nasty 1/4 incher tied, but not equalized, to a couple fixed nuts buried in sand. Fat Baba didn't pull the anchor rapping from there but your results may vary.

Don't go above Lucifer's unless you want to face potential death bravely.

You can read my epic on the face above Lucifer's at

http://member.newsguy.com/~climbing/LucifersLedgeSolo.html

Peace

karl

Rich the Brit

Trad climber

San Ramon, CA

Oct 8, 2003 - 01:23am PT

Harry Daley - best 2 pitch 5.8 in valley. better than bishop's. rap off to first belay and climb via Chouniard variation.

The Grack - only 5.6 but incredible fun. If you have time left over don't ingnore it because of lowly grade.

vernon

Trad climber

san francisco, ca

Oct 8, 2003 - 10:07am PT

cool story Karl

Francis

climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2003 - 01:17pm PT

Thanks for the information;
and that is a good story Karl, thank you for sharing.

davidji

climber

Oct 8, 2003 - 08:02pm PT

Good story Karl! Thanks.

David Nelson

climber

San Francisco

Oct 9, 2003 - 06:06pm PT

I would second the recommendation for the Grack. It is by far my favorite 5.6-7 in the Valley. Don't let the low rating sell it short: for pure enjoyment in Valley climbing, you can't beat it.

I would have to defer to others re: safety. Last time I checked (May, 2003) the Mountain Shop was advising people to stay away due to rockfall and I did not find anyone else climbing there. Too bad, as 30 years ago it was a very hopping place.

10b4me

Trad climber

Bishop(hopefully)

Oct 10, 2003 - 01:58pm PT

I also recommend the Grack. I agree with others. Harry Daley is one of the best 5.8's in the Valley.

Melissa

Big Wall climber

oakland, ca

Oct 10, 2003 - 02:19pm PT

Choinard Crack too! (Right beside Harry Daley.) These purty cracks are probably a much mellower experience than the holy sheet slabs over yonder.

Francis

climber

San Francisco

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2003 - 03:58pm PT

Thanks for all the info
i cannot wait to get my hands on some granite...
I feel like a kid in a candy store

will be in Yosemite in a couple of hours!

Day one plan: Reeds pinnicle
Day two: the apron ( or cookie cliffs, or Rainbow wall)

NeverSurfaced

Trad climber

Sputnik

Oct 11, 2003 - 10:41am PT

Great story Karl. It's interesting how miserable little forced bivis like that can force us to reflect and help us piece together the puzzle that is our lives. Had a similar story when I got a hold of some of the ‘evil weed’ and decided to light up for the first time in years. Ended up crying & blubbering like a fool for an hour+ thinking about family and all the little blessings that usually get swept under the rug. Felt great!