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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Killer pics in here. Thanks for posting this. I like the vintage shots. Pete came away from the attempt with nothing but respect & praise for Wings Of Steel. I know Ammon had played on the lower pitches this year too. He told me it was hard, sequential hooking and he took some long-ish(50 'falls), so if Ammon says it's rad and Pete bailed as well, then it must be kinda stout.
Who's gonna bag the second?
Levy
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Nice images! Maybe change the name from 'Wings of Steel' to 'Holy Shit' or 'When it Doubt, Run it Out' or 'Depends' because I would need to wear adult diapers if I ever got on the climb.
EDIT: I'll second BrentA's impression of the Intifada trip report. SOme really cool stuff. That Jim Beyer is one wrascally wrabbit.
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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Great site MadBolter, really good pictures that speak for themselves, can't wait for the PTPP's report.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Las Vizzle, on the rizzle
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Thoroughly enjoyed Jenson's TR for Intifada. Kudos gentleman. As one who has attempted a Beyer's second ascent myself I can agree with his heavy chisel hand. I have also found absurdly difficult aid as well.
Eagerly await ROF and SOD tr's.
Cheers,
Brent
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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Nice pics and narration. Now Pete, get on the stick and write something up will ya?
The fact that this route has not seen a second ascent says a lot. What was that saying about "walking in my mocaisons before dissin me", something like that.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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love the TR and photo's ..
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ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Richard and Mark... I remember you both from very early days climbing at Big Rock.. It was Toby an I, one of my climbing partners back in the day, who got to know you and Mark during a time of peace and good times - "let it bleed" ;) in EB's and Scats... It is confusing and strange to try and understand the motives of a tribe of climbers in protest o'er what was thought as your "transgressions" - kind of reminds me of the pomp and happinstance of the first ascent of the "dawn wall". Anyways, climb on...
cheers,
wil
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Levy-- That's a pretty big hook placement there... Definitely not a WoS placement. Not that there aren't *any* that size on the route, the norm, however, is much smaller.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Just out of curiousity, why so many ropes in the photo that shows the rack used for the Sea Of Dreams?
Cool photos and trip report by the way! 39 days that is long freakin time to be on a wall. Most time spent for me was 11 days and i was so over it at that point, I couldn't imagine over a month.
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john hansen
climber
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Was Beyer known for "enhancing " hook placements? Im not trying to dis him .. its actually just bringing Harding,s bat hooking to the extreme. I heard this Beyer dude was always on some A6 aid climb on the fisher towers or suffering on some wall on Baffin Island for two monthes ay a time. I just always heard his routes were so rad that they hardly ever got second ascents . Bolts,, rivets,,, copper heads and mashies,, sky hooks ,,,levitation?
I see know that he was going to the next logical step, moving across blank faces with the absulute minimum disturbance of the rock. Although he may have just bashed the walls into submision with his piton hammer.
I Think I will start a thread about that cat.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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The number of ropes for our Sea rack is a result of the fact that Mark and I learned at the Quarry to double-rope all our fixing and cleans. I know it sounds chicken, but that tactic has saved my life once already, so I'll stick with it because the hassle over the years is worth it to gain the years I otherwise might not have. You'll see on some Intifada pics that we have a Gibbs ascender sliding up a second rope. Once it's on, there's nothing to think about, and it provides a constant second or third connection to the rope(s), making back-knotting unnecessarily redundant.
Because we're so danged slow, we haul a ton of crap--multiple bags. We are an armada majestically (like a super tanker) making our way across the Sea!
Because of our weight, we had to spread our armada across multiple anchors on the Sea when we reached such classics as the RURP belay and the expanding anchor.
So, for us, fixing, hauling, and cleaning take a lot of rope. Donations anybody???
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| Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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