New Route at Lover's Leap - Sinbad Herbert Direct

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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2003 - 03:25pm PT

A few weeks ago Petch Pietrolungo put up an incredible extension to Sinbad Herbert at the Lower Buttress of Lover's Leap. The extension with the original route is an incredible 190-foot 5.10c pitch.

Route description:
Climb Sinbad Herbert (5.10 overhanging hand crack and stemming corner) and clip the anchor with a long sling. Move left up a few feet and then back right onto the arete to a bolt (it's about 20 feet on 5.7 to the first bolt so you might want a nut or small cam for protection). From there you follow bolts up the right side of the arete and eventually angle right on the face clippin a total of 8 bolts to the anchor. There is a 5.10b/c thin face crux and another 5.10b face move and otherwise its sustained 5.9 dike climbing.

You could do this route in two pitches but part of what makes this route so cool is that you are doing a steep and sustained 190 foot pitch. because the pitch is so long bring a lot of runners to manage rope drag.

The route has bolts right at the hard moves and then there are 10-15 foot stretches between bolts on the easier ground.

The climb is still "fresh" and a few of the holds are dirty but over time i this will probably be a 4 or 5 star classic.

There is a second pitch that is 5.6 R that is not reccomended. Much better to rap off with two 60m ropes. With one 70m rope you MIGHT be able to rap down to the first anchor but i'm not sure.

Rack: 8 draws and at least 3 long runners plus rack for the first part of sinbad herbert (1-2 ea 1-3.5").

seakri

Trad climber

Sierra Crest

Jul 17, 2009 - 03:43pm PT

Anybody done the full extension lately? My partner and I jumped on it yesterday. It had a bunch of lichen on it which made it fun. I think the supertopo guide lists the upper face pitch @ .10d. We linked the whole thing and had a blast.

My question: The upper crux felt way harder than 10d. Now I am not super strong, but I should be able to crank through 10d. The move was stopper for both of us. Knowledgable people post up, let me know if I am a weak wanker!

mucci

Trad climber

The pitch of Bagalaar above you

Jul 17, 2009 - 05:03pm PT

My partner wanted to lead the SH, he was a 6'4 150lb 17 yr old kid. We called him the great white albino all summer long. He styled it but I notice the crux gave him pause. I am 5'8 and when I got to the crux (thin dykes way far apart) It took me 10 min to bust the HARD friction moves just to unclip.

It felt like real 10d

Bada$$ route indeed, a little loose after the hand crack before the headwall.

Go do Prociutto in the Hogwild area, 10b slab. Hard but well protected.
Mucci

cmclean

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Jul 17, 2009 - 05:47pm PT

We did it last Sunday. I agree that the crux is quite hard--at least 5.10d and maybe feels harder simply because the rest of the route is just fun and interesting. Pretty low commitment though since you have a bolt at your chest for the crux move. I thought the climb was a fun way to get up the Lower Buttress without waiting in line for Surrealistic Pillar.

seakri

Trad climber

Sierra Crest

Jul 17, 2009 - 06:04pm PT

Thanks Guys!

Yep, true 10d. Super fun route!

Hardman Knott

Gym climber

Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca

Jul 17, 2009 - 06:31pm PT

seakri wrote:

My question: The upper crux felt way harder than 10d. Now I am not super strong, but I should be able to crank through 10d.
The move was stopper for both of us. Knowledgable people post up, let me know if I am a weak wanker!

It's probably 10d like East Corner is 10d
(knott).

Welcome to a typical Petch sandbag...

Salamanizer

Trad climber

Vacaville Ca,

Jul 17, 2009 - 08:42pm PT

It's not that Petchs routes are sandbagged...

...rather, everything else is just soft.

Petch

Gym climber

Lover's Leap

Jul 18, 2009 - 10:34am PT

For the Leap I think its soft.
Routes that are harder: Hemmoroids in flight 10c, Black Opal 10c, Third stone from the sun 10c, Wallflower 10c, Purple Haze 10d, Roofer Madness 10c.

10c is the hardest rating at the leap!