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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2006 - 12:38am PT
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I know I am violating some posts/hour rule, but this is the last thread I'll start tonight (but I might just add to some other threads bumping them to the top... sorry).
On Sunday we were worked from the previous two days of obscure climbing... we were lazing around in the morning. On our drive in through the Arch Rock entrance we spied Melissa and Jay having a nice breakfast... we circled around and parked with them. Great morning to be in this company. Jay brewed us a couple cups each of high-test coffee which got our mojo working. After we delayed enough Melissa and Jay went off to their climbs and we to ours.
This climb is close to other popular routes, but I don't think it ever gets done. There are two visual hints for your guesses. The first photo is at the base of pitch 1, with one of the belay ledges of the popular climb in the background:
The second picture is ablegable leading the first pitch, the route goes up to the tree, then continues in the same weakness to the upper vegetation. I know someone out there knows this climb... maybe even to have done it...
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 16, 2006 - 12:56am PT
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Commissioners Buttress...Illusion?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2006 - 01:11am PT
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nope
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 16, 2006 - 01:27am PT
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come on, that has to be on Commissioner Butt?!?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2006 - 02:06am PT
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what route on Commissioner Buttress? come on!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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May 16, 2006 - 02:35am PT
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The 5.7 route of course, no disrespect actually, there are only 3 listed climbs in my guidebook and one was guessed already. :)
Forgot the name and going to bed now.
Sleepy night night time, time to cuddle up with a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2006 - 02:46am PT
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OK, Munge the three climbs in Reid's listed over there: Illusion 5.10d R, CB 5.9 and...
Trip report: May 7, 2006
Ed Hartouni & ablegable
Commissioner Buttress
After Five
route description from Roper's Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley 1971 ("green guide") page 96
II, 5.7. TM Herbert and companion, 1968.
Several hundred feet right of the Nutcracker is a steep, broad break in the cliffs, containing an undue amount of bushes and dirt. At the extreme right side of this break, and just left of a very steep, clean buttress, lies an obvious chimney system. Although the lower section is dirty, the upper part contains some enjoyable climbing. On the 1st lead be sure to approach the belay tree from the left. Higher, follow chimneys to the top.
Now come on y'all, you've done After Seven and After Six, where's your sense of completeness?! This climb even has a topo in Reid's!
OK, well it takes a partner like ablegable to find a climb that is short, has a quick approach and is generally in a very busy area but is never done (almost never... anyone done it?).
Here is ablegable approaching the tree from the left, just like Roper says... except he tried it from the right first... no go that way, well, maybe some of you sport climbers out there could do it... and it's only 5.7!
Higher up on the thing we found an old piton... and the hummocks are still intact... you haven't lived if you've never climbed on hummocks!
Oh ya, Commissioner Buttress is just next door... and it looks great. Here's the third of a three person party approaching the first belay.
Another physical old school climb. Also loose, be careful out there! Anyone ask TM who the companion was? my guess is that he couldn't remember in '71, unless it's Roper himself... anyone care to speculate?
OK, I hope I don't see any of you out there on the obscure circuit!! it wouldn't be obscure anymore. But I have a sneaking suspicion that we'll be all alone.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 16, 2006 - 08:36am PT
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LOL,
hummock climbing...
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scuffy b
climber
Chalet Neva-Care
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May 16, 2006 - 11:04am PT
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The obvious white scar to the right is the 2nd pitch of
Elusion (Meyers got the spelling wrong). Squeeze behind the
edge of the flake which is really thin at the edge.
A squall came through when I was in there. Climbing in an
80 degree radiant oven with snow blowing horizontally
six inches in front of my face. We got snowed off (mid-May)
and did it the next week.
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susan peplow
climber
Winner of Diet Challenge!!!
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May 16, 2006 - 03:16pm PT
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"Oh ya, Commissioner Buttress is just next door... and it looks great"
Let me put your mind to rest.....IT'S NOT!
-Susan
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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May 16, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
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Ed,
Thanks for the TR. You guys are having way to much fun!
See ya,
Zander
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Pierre
Big Wall climber
Sweden
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May 16, 2006 - 04:43pm PT
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I have actually done this one (!) My first trip to the Valley - it was in 1990 and probably one of the first climbs I did in Yosemite, we had the green cover guidebook. I don't remember it being so chossy and grassy though...
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 17, 2006 - 02:26pm PT
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Ed-
Did someone yell down to you "Is that After Five" from the top of Pitch 2, Commissioner Buttress route that day? If so, that was me...our paths cross again. Thanks again for the rope.
-Mike
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Gene
climber
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May 17, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
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Has anyone else done any of the obscurities on the feature on the right in this photo from Ed’s trip report?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2006 - 03:06pm PT
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yep... I believe it after I answered "yes" to your question you said "cool"
we definitely have to get out and climb together... when you get back from your adventures.
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Gene
climber
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Oct 28, 2008 - 09:38pm PT
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Cool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Oct 28, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
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It's definitely either Harry Daley or the Burner.
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CAMNOTCLIMB
Trad climber
novato ca
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Oct 29, 2008 - 12:48pm PT
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wow, not a trade rout but a strange classic
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 29, 2008 - 04:58pm PT
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Obscuritists Unite!
Sentinel Spire circa 1960 ......
Climbed this with Roper and Baldinger, who was a ranger at the time. Got in a bit of trouble with the Park Service on this one. Appears there were major complaints about "excessive and prolonged rock fall emanating from the area".
Having clambered over numerous terrains with Roper on many occasions I can well appreciate your fascination with the remote and obscure. I remember one hilarious time when we were lost in an area we had been numerous times. He wrote the friggin guide and we were lost.
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