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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
NinjaChimp
climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2006 - 02:38am PT
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Question...are the 2 pitches of 'Gold Wall' the standard start to 'Silent Line', or does that route have its own distinct begining?
If SL has a unique start, how is it? Free...aid?
If not, how is the aid on GW, does a standard free rack suffice?
Thanks,
Justin
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 24, 2006 - 03:37am PT
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>Question...are the 2 pitches of 'Gold Wall' the standard start to 'Silent Line', or does that route have its own distinct begining?
They have the same start.
>If SL has a unique start, how is it? Free...aid?
Incidentally, I heard that Dean Potter freed the first pitch bolt ladder in 2004.
>If not, how is the aid on GW, does a standard free rack suffice?
One of my friends did it a few years ago, and wrote a trip report which may be entertaining:
http://www.whereisevan.com/eb-in-gold-wall.html
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NinjaChimp
climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2006 - 11:03am PT
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So I take it that the aid is just clipping a couple of old 1/4 inch bolts and pulling up...
thanks Clint.
Anyone else with beta? I won't turn it down.
-Justin
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durban
climber
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Mar 24, 2006 - 12:07pm PT
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I did this last fall, and depending on how hard you free climb, you might need to aid a little more than just the bolt ladder. My partner led the 2nd pitch, mostly aid, and I followed mostly free. It's pretty tough (a couple moves felt like 5.11). The supertopo is dead-on except that the two-bolt anchor it shows at the top of pitch 3 turned out to be a solitary ancient quarter incher (a gear belay's available, though). Great route, we had a blast!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 24, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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hmmm,
I did it in the late pleistocene.
'Thought it was terrific.
There was a bolt ladder, yes. Aid.
Then I remember stepping left, gaining an obvious crack system, which was choked with dirt, except I think Werner had been there prior and cleaned exactly the needed hand/foot jams so it went fine. The moves through the somewhat spooky roof were wild, we happened to be on dbl 9's that day and I felt good about that as my girlfriend followed and did a great job, but the dbls seemed appropriate...
I was given good beta on how to find the descent raps, which was key...
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Mar 24, 2006 - 01:06pm PT
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One of my friends did it a few years ago, and wrote a trip report which may be entertaining:
http://www.whereisevan.com/eb-in-gold-wall.html[/i]
I used to work with Evan and Ian. I got the epic told to me, directly from these guys. At that point I vowed to never do that 'thing.' After reading the STv2.0 description, it doesn't sound so bad :)
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Mar 24, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
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Yes Dean did free the bolt ladder with a few excursions off the ladder - hence the 13aR rating. Curiously he never freed the entire route so I guess it's still up for grabs.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Mar 25, 2006 - 02:52am PT
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I haven't seen the most recent topos, but thought that some of the ratings were a bit of a sandbag. Long pitches, too, at least for anyone climbing with 50m ropes (which were the standard length for the time when I did it.
Seem to recall a few finishing pitches through vertical forest that somehow didn't make the topo.
Scope out the descent well before hand, and don't try it on a dark night, headlamp or no. It's not trivial.
Golden Bough is a good get-acquainted climb for the area.
Brutus
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Mar 25, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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This route has been on my radar screen for a while. I had thought I had seen somebody post a TR where they just rapped the route to get down.
Would you have to leave a lot of gear to do this?
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 25, 2006 - 01:53pm PT
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No .....
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NinjaChimp
climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
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It was my impression that with two sixty meter ropes one could make the raps pretty easily...anyone do this recently?
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Dirk
climber
Curry Village
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Mar 25, 2006 - 07:43pm PT
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Getting off this route is interesting. If you are going to rap the route you really gotta nail your stations. Things are less than straigtforward. If you are going to descend to the west, wear long pants. It doesn't suck THAT bad but on-sighting it at night is going to be exciting. Follow the base of the upper wall until the moment of doubt. Then, when in doubt, take the low road. Do not begin this descent until you have traversed to a pin and tat anchor. We did the western raps this spring at night with two sixties. I would highly recommend two sixties if you were rapping the route itself. I think the ST makes it sound easier than it is. The route is classic. Suerte.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 25, 2006 - 08:09pm PT
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I've rapped the route and I've done the descent. I didn't find any problems doing the descent and thought it was piss easy for a descent.
When me and Cashner first did the original Silent line we left camp 4 at 10 in the morning. and had plenty of daylight still by the time we got back to camp 4.
It's not that hard or long of a line?
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jack splat
climber
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Mar 26, 2006 - 04:47pm PT
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My partner and I epic'ed finding the descent at night and got benighted about 22 years ago. I don't remember much other than it was dark and inobvious.
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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
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