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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Hi Rog and Werner!
It’s true, Chris Fredericks did think that climbing was going to hell in a handbasket, especially after Pratt---his incomparable mentor---had pulled away from really deep climbing by 1971. His whole group naturally thought they had done all the last free problems in Yosemite.....Chris still hung around in Camp often, tried to maintain some dominance; it couldn’t stick. Instead and as always, new talent came in, some learned from old talent leaving, some didn’t and some died, but basically this arcane art obviously progressed. It is always best to acknowledge greatness in others, especially the younger talented ones (grin & lol).
Haven’t seen Chris for at least 30 years. Roper knows what’s going on I am sure. But a number of us continued on Pratt’s path, with the most profound respect. I have a photo of Pratt the summer before he died, btw. Also of Kor, in Guam with his family only 6 years ago. I can post them if you like. And to update you on other friends, I see Doug Robinson, Al Steck, Vandiver, Roper (steveroper@aol.com) every few years or so also. And of course contacted Dale after Alan’s death.
Another interesting tidbit, I saw Bridwell a few summers ago at this large reunion on the East side that Dennis Miller, Russ McLean, Tom Carter et al organize. Jim and I stayed afterwards for half a day just being together talking; the younger group there was scandalized of course since they have been trying to marginalize him for the last 25 years. But he and I had a really deep, complex and special friendship that just picked up where it had left off in 1975. We went through the first couple of big El Cap rescues together (70-73), and some FAs. He and Klemens kept a watchful eye on me every day on the Salathe solo too. I think that is why my van had little gas when I got back... (g). Oh, and to charge the battery for the 8-track, as Werner notes! It all did not seem so great to me when I was 22 and suffering in the dirt, but you guys were really interesting friends whom I would remember for the rest of my life.
Werner, you are one of our great geniuses, completely unique. You have climbed your own climbing, for 35 years, often at the highest levels. You have been courageous, impeccable, decent. It is just incredible. You have made a complete life doing this; you have achieved the highest respect and awe of all who know you. If there is an artist in Yosemite, it is you. And all this, solidly spanning more than three decades!
I will put up some more fun stories here on ST, soon.
Best PH
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Just to update you old fossils:
Allen Steck is still climbing, although he has to watch his heart rate more than ever these days.
Last summer he put up a few new routes in the backcountry near Wishon Reservoir, a 5.7 (Golden Tower, 3 pitches) and a 5.9+ (Seem's Holy, 3 pitches.)
Brutus
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Deadwood Mountain
climber
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hearing folks reminisce about the good old days is so... nice.
it will never be like those days again... too bad for the modern day climbers...
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LittlePinkTricam
Trad climber
Providence, RI
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I think the modern climbing community's still got a little something...
Unlike modern music. Silly, silly modern music.
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dmitry
Trad climber
Chita, Russia
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Jay,
Regarding "Do you know of a free Cyrillic codex that works on OSX?".
I haven't done much with Russian for the past 7 years (used to teach Russian language & literature at a few colleges years ago), so I don't have an immediate answer. Plus I used to do all language stuff on a Mac. Let me root aroud a bit and get back to you.
Re Big Bros: that's what I also find, ANY flaring, however imperceptible, reduces the placement security a great deal. I've gotten a couple more WC Friends (5's & 6's) and sold my Bros.
Cheers,
d
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t-bird
Trad climber
Santa Cruz,CA
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Peter!
Doug and Jim climbed Snake Dike a couple of weeks ago! I wished I could have been there.
You need to come down to Santa Cruz and play on plastic with us. It's been too long.
be well,
T
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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HI Tauna,
I wish I had been there too on Snake Dike with them. I remember the day when JB did the FA too. Doug and JB climb with tons of feeling, always have. I think that is the point, simple as it may seem, and usually overlooked or avoided.
I actually dropped in at Pacific Edge a couple of weeks ago to say hi to Diane R. and Tom D. btw. Tom D had done Lotus Flower Tower recently, and had lots to tell. Perhaps I will be in soon; I have some work down there, and really like that gym, too.
Check out my new post on Bridwell.
Hugs PH
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t-bird
Trad climber
Santa Cruz,CA
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I'm including a TR link from another(Tom) friend of mine who got off the tower the day before Tom arrived. A spectacular trip on all counts.
http://tom.grundy.tripod.com/basedir/nahanni.html
Peter, tell Tom or whomever is in to let me know if your around or email directly.
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scuffy b
climber
S Cruz
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Peter, we've moved (not far).
Check your email.
Steve m
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WBraun
climber
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t-bird
Thanks for sharing that trip report and Wow! really cool.
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Hans.H
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Nov 10, 2005 - 11:33pm PT
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Let us talk climbing
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scuffy b
climber
Sinatra to Singapore
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Jul 21, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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check out the link in t-bird's last post.
A great trip report.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 21, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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Damn you... I've read this before but still had quite an extended lunch break to get through it again! Worth the bump.
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 14, 2012 - 08:32pm PT
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Sort of a gossip opportunity, since Peter, Werner and bvb seem to be around
lately.
I was around one time when Dale had just returned from some extended
absence and was fully enthused and nostalgic, sort of manically listing the
great days to come (I wonder how many partners he wore out that week).
He wanted to do a Cookie day, for example, see how many pitches it was
possible to do in one day.
But anyway, SKY. He so wanted to go back to Sky and jam it.
"It's an obvious lieback" he said, but he claimed it was the Only Off
Width that had ever Spit Him Out and he really wanted to make amends for
that.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Mar 14, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
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run it out james.
no purchase required.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jan 15, 2015 - 11:14pm PT
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would be so easy to DIY a simple reverse C-clamp configuration, and carry a drill/ driver in your rack to quickly set and release them.
I don't want to give all my secrets away tho.
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