Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2005 - 03:07pm PT
|
Great trip report, mate! I very much enjoyed your comments as a free climber learning how to aid. Yeah, it's harder than it might first appear.
On a technical note, the link from the overlook to El Cap goes to Half Dome pictures by mistake. I was also thinking it might be a lot easier to read if you darkened the text in the trip report.
And like, your Wall Doctor is from Canada, eh? Hopefully we'll manage to get together when you return next year, and I'll be able to drink the beer you bought for me, instead of forcing you to drink it yourself. Yeah, it ain't as tasty as the Brit stuff, that's for sure.....
|
|
10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2005 - 05:02pm PT
|
I enjoyed the tr.
|
|
Ceramiclover
Trad climber
sioux falls, SD
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2005 - 08:07pm PT
|
great trip report!
|
|
kevin Fosburg
Sport climber
park city,ut
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2005 - 08:51pm PT
|
Good effort. Very enjoyable reading.
|
|
David Nelson
climber
San Francisco
|
|
|
Oct 27, 2005 - 10:33pm PT
|
Marvelous, marvelous, marvelous. Reminded me of my ascent of the Nose three years ago. Big wall rat, indeed! You are. The tourists may have been avoiding you because of your smell, not the size of your pig. I also agree: you must commit 200% and never think of retreat. If you train hard on the right rock, and therefore you know your stuff, you just need to stick it out, pain and blood and nerves notwithstanding. The views are great, esp higher up.
PS Please do a better job of screwing in the bottom of your poop tube, or post your planned route here and we will run for the hills!
PPS For training for jugging, use the heaviest weight you can lift and still do the motion of pushing a jug up the rope. Repeat 10x, upgrade as you get stronger. I did that, found that jugging was easy with the right training (and, of course, the right lengths on your daisies). It does become an obsession; if not, you are probably not traing hard enough. And suffering? What else is big wall climbing if not suffering?
Thanks for putting in the part about taking storm gear. We lost two last year to freezing on the Nose, we don't want to lose any others. Check out the thread here about what went wrong and what we can learn: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=57522#msg57522
|
|
SteveM
Trad climber
UK
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2005 - 03:17am PT
|
Thanks for the feedback everyone. I've enjoyed putting everything together, now I just have to catch up on another 2 years of photos.
Pete: I've edited your location, sorry but the other side of the pond just blurred into "North America" when I was drafting this late at night ;-) I'd just add a public thank you for all the emails and patience with a novice working his way through the ropes.
|
|
John F. Kerry
Social climber
Boston, MA
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2005 - 09:42am PT
|
Great report, Steve, and fantastic job on Da Nose. That was my first (and only) El Cap route too and part of the magic was finally being in the place I had read & dreamt about so often.
Kudos to you for your preparation, too. Few first-timers on El Cap have already learned to aid solo and such.
From your TR: "Up to now we hadn't dropped anything but the bottom of the poop tube came undone and unloaded our waste all the way to the base. Oops. "
Don't you mean POOPS! :)
|
|
dengar
Trad climber
Ottawa, Canada
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2005 - 12:59pm PT
|
Great TR Steve enjoyed it very much ...makes me want to climb it even more now....
thanks
Dennis
|
|
Rupe
Trad climber
Leeds, West Yorkshire
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2005 - 01:51pm PT
|
Well done Steve. Yours is an uncannily similar trip report to my own experience on the Nose this time last year (the week before the Japenese team perished). I even trained at the same crags as you. As recorded at the time, I too was indebted to Pete Zabrok for his info. I didn't make it this year, Pete, but I still owe you a beer. Say hi to your parents!
Rupert
|
|
yo
climber
NOT Fresno
|
|
|
Oct 28, 2005 - 02:43pm PT
|
My favorite quote: Quite simply it's big. HUGE! F***ING GINORMOUS!!!! How the hell am I going to climb that?
Gets bigger every time you see it.
Cheers.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!