Reed's Direct?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
When did you top out on it last? Myself, I can't remember...

Scuffy, yesterday
Scuffy, yesterday
Credit: Jaybro
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 2, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
1976. You mean some folks don't do the last pitch? The shame! The shame!
More Air

Big Wall climber
S.L.C.
Nov 2, 2009 - 01:19pm PT
Back in 1978...got some nice abrasions on my knees.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Nov 2, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
1982.


But that was also the last time I did it.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 2, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
November 13th, 1993
At least for the first two pitches... :-)
Oh the shame...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
Is it easier or harder with a boombox on one's shoulder?
Mateo Pee Pee

Trad climber
Ivory Tower PDX
Nov 2, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
1973 or there about. Ed Barry's parents were in the Valley and they wanted to watch him climb. What better view than the Direct on Reed's? The only problem was Ed got really nervous climbing in front of his parents. So, I gladly accepted the offer to also lead the second pitch. For reasons I can't explain, waving to Ed's parents, I somehow felt compelled to demonstrate a leisurely climbing style that entailed tossing in my pro (a MOAC and a few stoppers) by just flipping them in from the end of the cords. This worked great for the 5.7 locker jams but upon reaching the wider section near the top of the pitch I looked down at a series of manky pieces and nearly tossed a wobbler clambering to the belay ledge. I led the last pitch to regain some composure but can only recall that it was a bit of a grunt. I also can't remember if Ed followed me or not as he was still freaked out by having his parents watching him. As always it was an adventure climbing with Ed.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
1978. Loved it and hated it.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:09pm PT
1982

I was so proud of the rash I got the first time I did it in 1980. I was bummed when it healed
L

climber
Waist deep in 'gators and still grinnin'...
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
Niiiiiiiiiiiiiice booty--er--technique shot ya captured there, J-man.

Looks like a fun lead...in a scary-painful-sweaty-hand sort of way. ;-)
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
73 when it was obligatory for the aspiring hard man.
HJ

climber
Bozeman, Montana
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
August "84. First climb I did in Yosemite. I don't think I knew what an offwidth was then. Probably called it a grovel. Went to the Cookie after that and got heat stroke on Waverly Wafer. That led to the discovery of Tuolumne, which for a northern boy was a very good thing.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 05:32pm PT
Really Hieronymous, first valley climb?

Too funny! Cheers!
Gobee

Trad climber
Los Angeles
Nov 2, 2009 - 05:34pm PT

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Nov 2, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
Once, 1991... That was enough.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
Gob, with socks like that, you were destined for great things!
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Nov 2, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
Topped out on it last time I climbed it, about 6 months ago.

You haven't done Reeds Direct unless you've topped out.
Which eliminates probably around 95% of those who've claimed an accent.

Their loss...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
Sometime in the late seventies. I bet lots of folks claim to have done the 3-D without the last pitch. Here is the Roper green guide description with my note on the last pitch just for Jim.

Iron Mtn.

Trad climber
Corona, Ca.
Nov 2, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
Dream Route-Too fat and out of shape to do it right now.....
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 2, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
What a cool pitch...



Like to go back and finish it off one of these days.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 61 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews