Is this really accurate??

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Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 30, 2009 - 04:57pm PT

From a historical timeline on Yosemite climbing.

"In 1992, Croft made the first one-day link-up of the Salathe and Nose on El Capitan, becoming the first to scale two El Cap routes in a day. Then in 1993, Lynn Hill free climbed the Nose, by then the world’s most famous big wall; the following year she freed the Nose once more, this time in twenty-three hours. This one-day, free ascent of El Capitan is arguably the most significant rock climb of twentieth century, and remains the greatest achievement by a female in the history of adventure sports."

Peter Haan

Trad climber

San Francisco, CA

Oct 30, 2009 - 05:02pm PT

I sure think so !!!

Russ Walling

Gym climber

Poofter's Froth, Wyoming

Oct 30, 2009 - 05:05pm PT

I had always thought the link up of Everest, Gash 4, and Nuptse by that girl from Cuba was the biggest thing in women's adventure sport activity. The fact she padded from Cuba in a wash tub and rode a fixed speed velodrome bike to Everest, without even a support yak, really ups the adventure quotient.

looking sketchy there...

Social climber

Latitute 33

Oct 30, 2009 - 05:12pm PT

But Russ, that Cuban ascent happened last year and the statement was about the most significant ascent of the 20th Century. So, I guess I'm with Peter on this one.

The Wolf

Trad climber

Martinez, CA

Oct 30, 2009 - 05:23pm PT

How about Octomom climbing out of the white trash heap to become a celebrity?

Sorry if I offend.

the kid

Trad climber

fayetteville, wv

Oct 30, 2009 - 05:47pm PT

i'll go with octomom...
climbing is soooooo pedestrian!
kurt

Cpt0bvi0u5

Trad climber

Merced CA

Oct 30, 2009 - 05:59pm PT

Warbler Gash 4 = Gasherbrum 4

MH2

climber

Oct 30, 2009 - 06:04pm PT

Yeah, and don't forget her (Lynn's) achievement getting referenced in Jerry MacGuire.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

sorry, just posting out loud.

Oct 30, 2009 - 06:09pm PT

JL,

I didn't see a confirmation of the Salathe and Nose link up on Hans Florine's site (speedclimb.com).

Hans would probably know though. Might try pinging him.

cheers,
Munge

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.

Oct 30, 2009 - 06:19pm PT

It's difficult to comment without knowing the context in which the quotation will be used. Intended audience, purpose, etc.

That said, I tend to favour understatement in such claims, given that perspectives may be different. Although it could just be my own style, or even a Canada/US cultural difference - I'm really not qualified to comment as to the substance.

Lynne Leichtfuss

Trad climber

Will know soon

Oct 30, 2009 - 06:44pm PT

Lynn Hill is an Awesome person/climber. Have always admired and respected her as did Dan.

I'm pretty sure she spells her name Lynn ....no "e" on the end. It makes me nervous when people spell her name like my sorry ass 5.8 climber name....jess sayin'. Peace, lynne with an e that can't climb.

Largo

Sport climber

The Big Wide Open Face

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2009 - 07:00pm PT

I think what makes Lynn's achievement especially outstanding is that even on here first free attempt she was with then World Cup male champion Simon Nadine (sp?) and he couldn't touch the Nose - meaning Hill was outperforming the very best guys at the time. To my knowledge, this cannot be claimed in any other skill advanture sport - not sailing, nor alpine climbing, nor yet (fill in the blank).

JL

Scared Silly

Trad climber

Oct 30, 2009 - 07:01pm PT

I am not sure her ascent was the most significant rock climb of the 20th century, definitely one of them. Similarly, as a female she has her place in the history of adventure sports but again I would not say her ascent was the greatest of all. As such, I would use a bit of qualifier language in the paragraph. This language helps acknowledge, indirectly other achievements while still noting that it is considered one of the greats.

Some suggested editing and a little grammar, (additions are in BOLD).

"In 1992, Croft made the first one-day link-up of the Salathe and Nose on El Capitan, becoming the first PERSON to scale two El Cap routes in a day. Then in 1993, Lynn Hill free climbed the Nose, by then the world’s most famous big wall; the following year she freed the Nose once more, this time in twenty-three hours. This one-day, free ascent of El Capitan is arguably ONE OF the most significant rock climbS of THE twentieth century, and remains ONE OF the greatest achievementS by a female in the history of adventure sports."

Reilly

Mountain climber

Monrovia, CA

Oct 30, 2009 - 07:07pm PT

I have a world of respect for Lynn Hill but I have to agree with Pate.
I'd also give serious consideration to that woman who walked to the N Pole by herself, well, and with a few polar bears.
Plus, a few of Wanda Rutkiewicz's (sp?) climbs were pretty gnarly too.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Oct 30, 2009 - 07:15pm PT

I think given the scale and history of The Nose route, and the activity involved in attempts to free it by many of the top climbers, Lynn's free ascent, and then the free ascent in a day was an enormously important climb. When you talk about the 20th century, however, even if we stay in Yosemite Valley, the initial ascent of The Nose ranks right up there, and without that ascent it would be difficult to believe that there could have been a free ascent.

As for adventure sport, the fact that Lynn herself had been up the route many times has to be factored into the achievement. There was little "adventure" left by the time of the 21 hour all free ascent, still an enormous achievement.

The 20th century covers much of modern climbing, probably all that we would recognize. I think it is too early to tell with objectivity what the significance of the FFA of The Nose was... though long, free, hard routes are a game being played out now, will it be the future?

Thinking about Sacherer's contribution to climbing, it seems that someone like Breedlove observed that Frank may have been the fountainhead for the 70s, that his esthetic was adopted. But at the time, and for long after he departed, his contributions may have been under appreciated. It was only after seeing what transpired afterwards, 30 or 40 years, was it clear what the effect of those climbs were.

It is only 15 years since Lynn's ascent, I'm not sure we have it all in context yet...

...still a climb of major significance. How many times has it been repeated since?

Studly

Trad climber

Oct 30, 2009 - 07:27pm PT

I don't think womens solo sailing even holds a candle to Lynn Hill's accomplishment. Not even close or in the same league. I don't consider solo sailing a sport, and I'm a sailor. Its more of a mental game, sleep deprevation, storm, navigation, equip repair, etc. Maybe it compares to aid climbing in that you are relying on your gear all the time. But free climbing.....a realm of its own.
Lynn Hill set the bar so high in the art of physical accomplishment that even today who besides Tommy Caldwell has done what she did. No one that I know of, and that includes all the greats of the climbing world can free the worlds most legendary and famous climb, The Nose.
What Woman besides Lynn Hill in all the annals of sporting, bested the best men in the world in a sport that is so physically demanding and mentally challenging. It stands in my view as the singlest greatest physical accomplishment by any woman ever in light of the time when it was done and the track record of the climb since. She was eons ahead of her time.
I may one day sail around the world, but I know I'll never free climb the Nose.

dave goodwin

climber

carson city, nv

Oct 30, 2009 - 07:54pm PT

Wasn't Shultz Croft's partner for the two El Cap route in a day? Seems like he should get some mentioning also.

WBraun

climber

Oct 30, 2009 - 08:00pm PT

"In 1992, Croft made the first one-day link-up of the Salathe and Nose on El Capitan,"

Yeah, what happened to Shultz? Without the "Iron Monkey" nothing would have happened.

They actually failed on their first attempt of the one-day link-up of the Nose and Salathe.

And Lynn Hill rocks!

Studly

Trad climber

Oct 30, 2009 - 08:24pm PT

I don't buy it, its not that big of a deal sailing. What are you going to die from, boredom? Those guys are flying along in some semi rough seas becasue they choose to go that fast. If they were worried about it, they could heave to or put on a storm sail but they are in a race trying to lay tracks and make some time. Those seas are not even that rough in reality, it gets way worse then that. People sail and race in those conditions all the time. How many people free climb the Nose?