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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
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Hey I'm Trying to get some Information on the History of bouldering in South Ridge/County Park/ Relativity Boulders or any other areas in Idyllwild going back to Robbins day I know Largo does. I'm not looking for info on Black Mountain.
-The Kid
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 18, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
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I did quite a few of the firsts at S. Ridge and Black Mt. but my favorite peach was always The S. Ridge Arete...Skip Guerin snatched that baby! Got tons of photos of the stuff just have to find and blow the webs off 'em!!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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any pictures or info on first ascents would be great I have some info from Clark Jacob And Mr. Troll on the boulder in the parking lot at south ridge They cut away the manzanita tree their and did first ascents. And Clark did the fa of elephant man. Any more stories??
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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I would really like to find info on the AH rock in county park thats one of the best boulders in idyllwild Also i forgot to mention Humber Park bouldering Namely this boulder problem anyone know who did the First ascent and the spiral tree boulder
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
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south ridge arching crack boulder FA and who put the bolts at the top and the famous south ridge arete jogg any memories i know skip did the FA of south ridge arete
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JNB
Big Wall climber
Northridge
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Oct 19, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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The first thing I ever climbed was at the trailhead of the south ridge trail.
I have to go back someday.
Juan
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Oct 19, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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robbins, kamps, couch, higgins, haney-- lots of strong folks climbed there in the '50s and 1960s prior to the stonemaster gen.
since bouldering was not as highly regarded as cragging, no one seems to have recorded much detail.
personally, i was never crazy about south ridge and only went there a few times. funny how long the sr arete was an open problem-- and it was only v5.
folks had climbed stacks of "harder" things all over the hill years earlier.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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Wow, a great history! HI BALL ! And a bit secret? But this photo showed up of you know who, and the hunt was on!
PS.
Hey, Can you say, Dyno ?
By the way the landing on this problem is absolute DOG SH#T ! If you don’t pull it off As he did in the Shot. MR. Power of the StoneMasters...
Dogtown.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Oct 19, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Nice, with best wishes!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
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I know Chris Sharma went up to south ridge once and was doing laps up the south ridge arete i don't think he did any new problems.
I heard that Royal Robbins did a lot in County Park can anyone elaborate on this?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 19, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
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Yeah I know some people think the S.Ridge Arete is a hike (KLK?) And I used to run laps on it, but I thought it was as hard as other's in Josh per se that I used to hike as well...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 19, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
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First visited the Relativity Boulders around 1978 whith E !!!
Hugh Burton and Al Bartlett were there also.
I had a rugby shirt on at the time:
My mom had just washed it, using a bit too much fabric softener.
Burton cop'd a whiff & remarked: hey what's that sweet smell? I promptly demured & slithered over to some easier problems...
Also visited a place called The Sunrise Boulders which Randy Grandstaff found.
Again with E & Lou Bartlett.
Largo was there !!!
He pointed to some problem that was very cranky, with a big high step too.
He said: that problem looks futuristic! Then I did it...
I think those Sunrise Boulders got bulldozed to make way for a home-building project.
All troo & all histr'y.
(History, .... uh, more in the pejorative sense: as in toast)
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Oct 19, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
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One problem that probably won't be seeing very many ascents is "Weasels Ripped My Flesh" that is unless some kind of deforestation happens
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Oct 19, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
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Paging Dr. F
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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History of bouldering in Idyllwild and no mention of Bud Couch- the shame, the shame!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 20, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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Yeah, I put up all those "Cat" problems... "Big electric Cat" "Cat People" etc.They're in Craig Fry's ( Dr. F's) Guidebook So. Cal Bouldering....(I love that place by the way...)
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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wait Sun Rise Boulders!!! please elaborate i have never heard of them unless they are by Jameson road then ive heard them mentioned. Roger also told me about some boulder that Rob Erler put up but I can't remember where they were. and we talked for hours about bouldering off morris ranch road in garner valley. What are the "Cat" problems???
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Oct 20, 2009 - 01:29am PT
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There were some problems near S.Ridge Arete that I cleaned, then named after "Cat People"... (Movie I had been watching recently)... I think the one that is in Craig's book that I hadn't mentioned is "Transmaniacon" (After the Blue Oyster Cult" song) that I had done there, none of the local kids could touch...Must be in the guide...Ahhhhhh!
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The_Kid
Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 02:37am PT
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Are those on the Arching crack boulder to the left of the crack?
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