History Of bouldering in Idyllwild

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The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 18, 2009 - 04:23pm PT
Hey I'm Trying to get some Information on the History of bouldering in South Ridge/County Park/ Relativity Boulders or any other areas in Idyllwild going back to Robbins day I know Largo does. I'm not looking for info on Black Mountain.

-The Kid
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Oct 18, 2009 - 06:44pm PT
I did quite a few of the firsts at S. Ridge and Black Mt. but my favorite peach was always The S. Ridge Arete...Skip Guerin snatched that baby! Got tons of photos of the stuff just have to find and blow the webs off 'em!!
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
any pictures or info on first ascents would be great I have some info from Clark Jacob And Mr. Troll on the boulder in the parking lot at south ridge They cut away the manzanita tree their and did first ascents. And Clark did the fa of elephant man. Any more stories??
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
I would really like to find info on the AH rock in county park thats one of the best boulders in idyllwild Also i forgot to mention Humber Park bouldering Namely this boulder problem anyone know who did the First ascent and the spiral tree boulder
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 05:02pm PT
south ridge arching crack boulder FA and who put the bolts at the top and the famous south ridge arete jogg any memories i know skip did the FA of south ridge arete
JNB

Big Wall climber
Northridge
Oct 19, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
The first thing I ever climbed was at the trailhead of the south ridge trail.

I have to go back someday.

Juan
klk

Trad climber
cali
Oct 19, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
robbins, kamps, couch, higgins, haney-- lots of strong folks climbed there in the '50s and 1960s prior to the stonemaster gen.

since bouldering was not as highly regarded as cragging, no one seems to have recorded much detail.

personally, i was never crazy about south ridge and only went there a few times. funny how long the sr arete was an open problem-- and it was only v5.

folks had climbed stacks of "harder" things all over the hill years earlier.
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
Wow, a great history! HI BALL ! And a bit secret? But this photo showed up of you know who, and the hunt was on!
PS.

Hey, Can you say, Dyno ?

By the way the landing on this problem is absolute DOG SH#T ! If you don’t pull it off As he did in the Shot. MR. Power of the StoneMasters...

Dogtown.


dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Oct 19, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
Nice, with best wishes!
Abercrombie

Trad climber
Ca
Oct 19, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
I know Chris Sharma went up to south ridge once and was doing laps up the south ridge arete i don't think he did any new problems.

I heard that Royal Robbins did a lot in County Park can anyone elaborate on this?
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Oct 19, 2009 - 07:23pm PT
Yeah I know some people think the S.Ridge Arete is a hike (KLK?) And I used to run laps on it, but I thought it was as hard as other's in Josh per se that I used to hike as well...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Oct 19, 2009 - 08:07pm PT
First visited the Relativity Boulders around 1978 whith E !!!
Hugh Burton and Al Bartlett were there also.

I had a rugby shirt on at the time:
My mom had just washed it, using a bit too much fabric softener.
Burton cop'd a whiff & remarked:
hey what's that sweet smell?
I promptly demured & slithered over to some easier problems...

Also visited a place called The Sunrise Boulders which Randy Grandstaff found.
Again with E & Lou Bartlett.
Largo was there !!!
He pointed to some problem that was very cranky, with a big high step too.
He said:
that problem looks futuristic!
Then I did it...

I think those Sunrise Boulders got bulldozed to make way for a home-building project.

All troo & all histr'y.
(History, .... uh, more in the pejorative sense: as in toast)
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Oct 19, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
One problem that probably won't be seeing very many ascents is "Weasels Ripped My Flesh" that is unless some kind of deforestation happens
F10

Trad climber
e350
Oct 19, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
Paging Dr. F
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Oct 19, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
History of bouldering in Idyllwild and no mention of Bud Couch- the shame, the shame!
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Oct 20, 2009 - 12:38am PT
Yeah, I put up all those "Cat" problems... "Big electric Cat" "Cat People" etc.They're in Craig Fry's ( Dr. F's) Guidebook So. Cal Bouldering....(I love that place by the way...)
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 01:04am PT
wait Sun Rise Boulders!!! please elaborate i have never heard of them unless they are by Jameson road then ive heard them mentioned. Roger also told me about some boulder that Rob Erler put up but I can't remember where they were. and we talked for hours about bouldering off morris ranch road in garner valley. What are the "Cat" problems???
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
Oct 20, 2009 - 01:29am PT
There were some problems near S.Ridge Arete that I cleaned, then named after "Cat People"... (Movie I had been watching recently)... I think the one that is in Craig's book that I hadn't mentioned is "Transmaniacon" (After the Blue Oyster Cult" song) that I had done there, none of the local kids could touch...Must be in the guide...Ahhhhhh!
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2009 - 02:37am PT
Are those on the Arching crack boulder to the left of the crack?
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