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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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What's the best middle pitch in Yosemite. By middle pitch I mean pitches 2 - 27 excluding #5,12,17 and/or 21. Anything over 27 doesn't count. Also, anything with bolts does not count, because if it is bolted it is a sport climb, and no sport climb can be best, EVER!!!!!
Let me know!
Werner Braun for Govenor 2010!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 16, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
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WTF with all the restrictions? Some kind of lame scam of a sweepstakes? But I'll vote anyway. Any list of great mid-climb pitches on long Valley routes would have to include, maybe even start with, Pancake Flake. I'm sure the innumerable 5.12 to 5.14 pitches on free walls are better climbing, but Pancake gets a huge bonus for accessibility to the masses without any loss of fabulous setting and multi-star climbing quality. I think for Hans and Yuji, Pancake would be about pitch 3 or 4 so it fits within your limitations.
Notwithstanding all your mysterious pitch number exclusions, you never excluded crag routes, which makes the layback pitch on the Good Book another prime candidate.
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Oct 16, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
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I always snag the 2nd pitch on Central Pillar by "letting" my partner have the roof pitch. Suckers!
If you count the Nabisco Wall as a route, then Wheat Thin is a pretty stellar middle pitch.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 16, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
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The 10.d lieback pitch of the Good Book. The Harding Slot.
Butterballs.
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scuffy b
climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
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Oct 19, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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Middle pitch of Reed's Direct?
Middle pitch of Twilight Zone?
Middle pitch of New Diversions?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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butterballs, cant remember what pitch but the one up to big sandy on HD a is fun, enduro.....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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Gee...no contest- the 2nd pitch of the Gripper. You know, the 40 ft. 5.8 where you climb through the tree.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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Dike pitches on Snake Dike?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Oct 19, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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"...but Pancake gets a huge bonus for accessibility to the masses without any loss of fabulous setting and multi-star climbing quality."
Say what? I'm part of the masses, and I couldn't get myself to free the pancake. If it were on the ground, and I weren't carrying the aid climber's kitchen sink, you bet. But the mental games and the clusterage that hangs off of you on a wall make 5.10 non-masses material, doesn't it?
Anybody freeing over 5.9 on a big wall eats the masses' dreams and aspirations for breakfast!
Edit:
NEB HCR, you know the pitch.
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hooblie
climber
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Oct 19, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
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warbler has got it right. failure to decide is no failure at all. i always cringe when a panel of experts are charged with sorting out the rankings of contenders who have distinguished themselves as valitorious in merit.
salutes should be proffered freely, without impugning the eligibility of others. ice dancing comes to mind, it should be more like climbing. full embrace for the pair that took it to the edge, in their own resounding way.
isn't it great that we are immune to the syndrome, that we can ascend the best pitch of our lives, and then do it all over again, but in a slightly different category? the ultimate!... fitted for that time and that place with that set of variables, with those folks in those conditions. under this criteria, the cup can stay running over.
granted, every once in a while the cup is subjected to a hundred year flood. but who is the authority, who can impeach the ultimate? that's what is so great about climbing, no one has to walk away with the silver
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