Steck Salathe/Narrows. Would 9 or 12 inch giant cam help?

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p

Mountain climber
ny
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
I became a proud owner of 9 inch and 12 inch valley giant cams. I am planning to do Steck Salathe next week. Would these help protecting the narrows or the chimney above? I have read about using #4 big bros on the route.
Thanks
Paul
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 29, 2009 - 03:54pm PT
you do not need anything bigger than #4 old camelot. It protect well initial hardest entry move into the Narrows . After that you can not fall - just inhale and your chest hold you better than any pro
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 29, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
Yup! You only need a #4 friend. Just remember to take off your rack and dangle it below you.

Bruce
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 29, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
Geez...you can't fall out of the thing, it's a question of being able to move up.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Sep 29, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
Don't worry about the Narrows.

It feels like you could fall out as you're first sucking up into it. That's gotta be why so much ink gets spilled on that move. But I'll bet no one ever does. Just set those elbow-palm locks and make like a snake.

Once you get your knees up into the narrower bit tho, you'll probably wish they were still flailing out of the way. Seems to be harder for tall guys, but look at it this way: where else will you ever have one-up on Dean Potter?

Soon enough it'll be just another great story, mimed in the firelight.
p

Mountain climber
ny
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
Thanks guys. that makes sense.
I want to mention though that I climb predominantly in Gunks (read roofs/overhangs) and even 5.8-5.9 chimney/squeez/OW is a challenge. Any opinion from 5.9 chimney climber who did it?
BASE104

climber
An Oil Field
Sep 29, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Someone beat me to the "just inhale" part, but it is true.

You will love it. The route is super fun.
Moof

Big Wall climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
Sep 29, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
I love the "Breath Jam".
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Sep 29, 2009 - 05:31pm PT
I climbed the Narrows in the middle of a furious thunderstorm and the chimney was a virtual waterfall. It took about five or six tries for me to get wedged up in there because each time I tried to move up into the slot, the waterfall just spit me back out. Pretty scary and cool all at the same time.

Bruce
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 29, 2009 - 05:40pm PT
It'd be a pain to carry, route protects surprisingly well overall. Could maybe bring 2 fours at the max to absolutely sew up the off width cruxes. One is totally fine. I remember doing it as a newb and pushing a 4 around while I didn't know how to climb pure 5.8 leg jamming odub. A 4 bro seems overkill imo.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 29, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
You bought them, you might as well take them.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 29, 2009 - 07:12pm PT


Brutus enters the Narrows...
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Sep 29, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
Mark disagree......no need for these things in the narrows and then you whould have to drag them up the whole route, never when they are needed. Go lite and fast on this one.
That's Papajoto to you son!!!!!

Social climber
Oatmeal Arizona
Sep 29, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
A #4 Camalot and a pair of huevos.

PJ
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Sep 29, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
I don't think you need anything than the old #4 to get/aid into the narrows. I just don't see anyway to slide down that thing out of control. It is too narrow and it is actually sort of wavey on the inside (gives your feet something).

Exiting the narrows can also be exciting. However, you can climb up high and get a #3 camalot in (you then have to downclimb to actually be able to exit)--this protects the getting out and most of the rest of the pitch.

I thought the scary pitch was the one below the narrows that is a flared crack/chicken wing size. You most definitely could fall out of that thing. I don't know if it would take a big cam or not (we didn't have any).
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 29, 2009 - 07:56pm PT
A friend of mine did the SS in the early 70's with Brit Richard McHardy. Richard supplied the gear and when they got to the bottom pulled out 6 manky nuts, none of which were large. When questioned, Richard said: "Aye, but too many pieces lower me standard."
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Why'djya leave the ketchup on the table?
Sep 29, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
This image shows the placement of the crucial #4 Friend, you can see the entrance is protected.



Now ya just gotta get on with it... the Narrows brought out a more claustrophobic feeling then I ever got in a cave. You can definitely feel trapped in there, esp if you have big Hara.



This last image is the nice chimney just above the Narrows.



Hey Marty, followed Stu up that pitch. One of many greatuns I did with him.

Say... I heard from a little birdy he was flying again....

DMT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 29, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
A blue camalot works every time.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 29, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
Marty, I'm being facetious, there is no need what so ever for cams that big. In fact, if someone even considers taking gear that big then they should seriously re-consider doing the route. Remember, ability trumps all and all routes are not for all people.
Mike.

climber
Sep 30, 2009 - 09:18am PT
Not only do you not need an oversize cam, you don't need to squeeze chimney the Narrows. Head out to the edge and do the back/foot and stem thing for a couple moves to and past bolts. I think those bolts have bee replaced.
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