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TimN
Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
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What is the closest climbing to Santa Barbara, CA?
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Jim Wilcox
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Sep 29, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
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Bouldering, or rope?
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Rokrover
Trad climber
SB, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 02:33pm PT
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All the closest climbing areas in the foothills above town got toasted in the Gap, then Tea and Finally Jesusita fires. They are now subject to closure due to hydromulching operations. However, the trails to the Playground and Brickyard areas off West Camino Cielo should reopen next week. Also nearby is Lizards Mouth. These are bouldering areas on soft sandstone and hardly a major destination. You may be better off at Echo Cliffs south in the Santa Monicas.
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Jim Wilcox
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Sep 29, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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While the Gap fire started at Lizard's Mouth, it was spared from much damage for the most part. Lizard's mouth has some great views of the coast line, too. I hauled out 350 lbs of broken glass back in June.
Agreed that the sandstone can be pretty friable in the area,but Lizard's mouth is pretty solid. It's fairly spread out-and a "tour guide" your first few times can make a huge difference in your enjoyment level.
Brickyard is close by. Been closed ever since the fire last August. Supposed to be open soon, but I'll believe it when the signs are down. Neat area, but has never seen the traffic required to really clean it up.
A few areas for roped climbing. Gibralter, San Ysidro, sport routes at the fire Crags(discovered after a fire back in early 90's) A few other areas-but could have access issues right now(recent fire closures)
Nothing in Santa Barbara is a destination spot, but there are some great areas nearby if you're already planning a visit.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 29, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Whats the name street that has the glue up bouldering on the bridge that crosses the creek downtown? I used to get a good pump on after work there. I think it's Annamapu St. bridge right near State St.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Sep 29, 2009 - 03:31pm PT
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And don't forget the great bouldering at the Bridge in Goleta.
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Joe Stern
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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Closest bouldering to downtown: Skofield Park then Painted Cave. Both offer good rock, variety of difficulty (V0-6 mostly, with a few harder), and are pretty small areas.
Best bouldering: Lizard's Mouth for now.
Closest roped climbing: Gibraltar Rock (the area is torched, but the rock is mostly fine), San Ysidro.
Sespe Gorge is maybe 1.5 hours away, not burned, with fun easy to moderate cragging and a few 2 pitch routes.
I just moved there/here a couple months ago for grad school, so that's just what I've seen so far. If you're coming to the area any time soon, I'd be happy to show you the bits that I know, explore others, loan out guidebooks, or whatever: joevstern AT gmail DOT com.
Oh, and pretty much everywhere worth going is within a long weekend's drive.
Joe
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Jim Wilcox
Boulder climber
Santa Barbara
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Sep 29, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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Jan,
I used to love the bridge at Maria Ygancio for after work. Went there the first time after a billion years not to long ago. The bummer is the city used that thick, nasty anti-graffati paint to cover up some tagger's work. Made all the crimpers real slick. Bummer.
Edit:
Shoot, if your gonna go all the way to Sespe might as well go a little further and hit Pine Mountain
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TimN
Trad climber
St. Charles, MO
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 29, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
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Thanks for all the info. I will be in the area 10/9-10/12 for a wedding and might be able to climb on Saturday or Sunday.
Joe- I'll get in touch once I have the wedding schedule figured out.
Thanks again everyone!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Sep 29, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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Gibralter is pretty fun. Nice that the fire didn't totally ruin it.
Pine Mountain is nearby, and, worth a look. Great bouldering and some highball stuff that some folks (me) wouldn't mind a rope on.
Stuff above Malibu is good too. Can be hot in the sun.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 04:41pm PT
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You can still climb at the classic spots: Fire Crags for sport off of Painted Cave Road. Gibraltar Rock and that whole area up on Gibraltar Road is in the burn zone but I don't think they are hydromulching there. San Ysidro is in Montecito and has nice a nice approach and casual cliff base for socializing.
Classic cracks near Gibraltar are T-Crack (5.10) the Nose (5.11), Makunaima (5.11).
At Fire Crags you can go for bolted Grib dat Hole (5.11)
San Ysidro Classics are Vanishing Flakes (5.11), Applied Magnetics (5.9) and Great Race (5.10).
Harder routes are out E Camino Cielo at the Kryptor.
I wrote the area's guide (out of print) with Tucker back in '94 and other than the new routes at the bouldering areas not much has changed so let me know what you are looking for and I'll make sure to point you in the right direction. kevin at kevsteele dot com
some shots form the recent fire are here at another thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=853396&tn=60
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kevsteele
climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Sep 29, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
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@Batrock: It was the Pedrogosa Street Bridge near the 101 (Pedrogosa is 1 block below Mission) that had all the glue on pumps and traverses. It was even in a BD catalog BITD.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Some recent shot'z of Gibraltar Rock.
Hole in wall.
Shitty shot of Cold spring dome. the climb is around left corner.
they say fourth class!
Makunaima wall
Dave sending THE santa Barbara Classic.
very kool.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Gibraltar is worth climbing if, and only if, it's the only thing around.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 10, 2011 - 11:55am PT
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Donini getting to that makunamia wall is worth going anytime!
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Guck
Trad climber
Santa Barbara, CA
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Nov 10, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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Jim, I do not know when you were in Santa Barbara last, but many new areas have opened in the last 15 years. There are great ones below West Camino Cielo (e.g. "Land of the Lost", The Playground"). Come by and visit!
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Nov 10, 2011 - 02:02pm PT
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I learned to climb at Gibraltar. 3 of us went in to buy a rope and 6 Chouinard carabiners. Our harnesses were tied out of 1" webbing. Quite painful to sit in, but we were just toproping there.
Great memories. Good thing I don't have a scanner because the style of the times has really changed. . .
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Nov 10, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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Has anyone been up to that big slab easily visible from the rest stop on Hwy 101 near where the road leaves the beach? I remember it from years ago, always wanted to run up there. Looks kinda like Sespe.
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