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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 10, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
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Almost 30 years ago Dan Dingle and (the late) Ken Black climbed three lower angled routes on the left side of the Bunny Slopes area across the road from Pywiack Dome. As was the custom of the time they minimized the number of bolts placed and what resulted were climbs with an R/X protection rating. These guys were pretty bad-ass friction climbers and a short while later went on to put up Crest Jewel (Dan) and Dakshina (Dan and Ken) on North Dome.
Over the years folks have hinted to Dan that it would be nice to upgrade the pro on those Bunny Slope routes. Last year Dan asked me to help him out with doing just that. As of this last weekend both "Black Uhuru" and "Hit or Miss" have been updated. Although these climbs are no longer R/X, they are not sport bolted either. Leaders will find the protection to now be on par with the other routes at the Bunny Slopes. We will try to get to "Cool Meditation" on the far left next summer.
The update consisted of adding one or two protection bolts to each pitch and replacing existing 1/4" carbon steel hardware with 3/8" stainless.
Black Uhuru is the prominant black streak left of Wild in the Streaks. It consists of fun 5.6 climbing on dark knobs. Forty feet further left is Hit or Miss. This climb is a little harder with a few sections of polish to negotiate.
Black Uhuru 5.6
p1: 2 bolts + 2" piece to a natural anchor (2"-3") on a ledge just left of the start of Wild in the Streaks (5.6 100').
p2: 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor (5.6 160')
Hit or Miss 5.7
p1: 4 bolts + .5 camalot to 2 bolt anchor (5.7 165')
p2: 2 bolts + .5 camalot to a 2 bolt anchor (5.6 160')
Here are some shots of Black Uhuru:
Dan doesn't post here on the Taco, so I told him I would let folks know about the update. Dan is a really great guy and it was a pleasure and a privelage to climb with him. Here he is at the belay:
Here is the 2nd pitch with the old leeper visible on the left, shortly before we pulled it with the tuning fork. Just a sea of knobs- too many to choose from!
Here is Alyse, a budding slab master, high on the 2nd pitch.
Enjoy!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 10, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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Looks great - thanks for all your work !
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Redwreck
Social climber
Echo Parque, Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 10, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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Very cool! Thank you!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 11, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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bump !
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 11, 2009 - 04:41pm PT
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Yay! I climbed p2 of Black Uhuru by, ahem, mistake one evening when I first started leading. I was pretty far up when I realized I was on the wrong route with that manky bolt. Got my attention! Glad to hear that there are a few more bolts now, it was a fun route.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 11, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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Excellent work. Please thank Dan for agreeing to the upgraded protection.
John
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BrianH
Trad climber
santa fe
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Sep 11, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
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I'll second that, that looks like climbing I'd like to do!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Sep 14, 2009 - 03:09am PT
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Drove past here on Saturday, later in the afternoon after the rains/clouds. We counted 4 folks on one route and 4 on the other when driving past around 5p Saturday.
This stuff's already getting attention. Kind of like how Dozier is these days after CM's new book came out.
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