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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
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Nope, sorry, this has nothing to do with traveling harbingers of political correctness, or anything else political...
The much anticipated fall-winter road trip is upon us, and I would like to share our adventures with those of you who may be interested.
I have an actual blog which will include more anecdotal stuff in addition to climbing stuff-
http://camsforthemiddleclass.blogspot.com/
I plan to update this thread with multiple mini TRs, taking a page out of Tkingsburys book...always enjoy his threads.
I hope to make it into the valley in a month or so, a little behind my original schedule(ish) but I am hoping I get to meet some of you and share a rope if it works out.
Steve Richert
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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I will spare the illustrative details and anecdotes that are non climbing related for this TR since I am keeping a more fleshed -out blog which is more a general interest work for those interested.
So far the climbing this trip has been wonderful- exceeded only by the quality of great folks whose company we have had the privilege to enjoy. Our first stop having left NY last thursday is at Mt Rushmore, SD. The climbing community is just that; very open and friendly and willing to help. We came without a guidebook just figuring on winging it at Rushmore and had several groups of people show us around, lend us guidebooks etc. We also got to meet Brad and Deann (Mr and Mrs Museum) and it was a great experience for the first time meeting someone off an internet chat forum...all kidding aside, they shared a lot of amazing stories and some beta for the areas we will be visiting over the upcoming months.
I may have routes mis-labeled or vaguely labeled...feel free to correct.
This is me at the top of a little 5.6 that kicked off our climbing call boxcars and airplanes
and then Stef
Me at the top of some 5.9 just left of Boxcars and Airplanes
This is called critical arete, its a blocky 5.4, lots of fun- made more exciting by dropping a couple draws...
The following day starts off with Stef leading a short easy route up the Toy Boat formation. She is just starting to get back into leading again after breaking her ankle pretty badly at Rumney NH (yuck)
and yes...i tilted the camera on this one...
Here I go on a short 5.10, dont know the name, but its to the left of Hornets Nest, i think on critical view. Crux start, which obviously I have passed, and the remainder is really enjoyable...
I also attempted Pelican Dike which is a 10+ but that wasn't happening...
The next day before heading out to the Needles we climbed a really nice 2 pitch route called Waves.
It starts in a little gully
and follows a series of "waves" which are really fun rails
Stef following P1
Top of P1
Stef fllowing P2, now we're in the sun and its pretty hot...
Summit shots
and the (thankfully) uneventful descent
This concludes this installation of me hating picasa and other various photo storage websites and my POS computer. Coming next, the Needles!
Steve
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Chinchen
climber
Anacortes, wa
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Sep 19, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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Thanks! Keep sharing!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 19, 2009 - 03:13pm PT
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Porkchop Express, comin' through!
Good stuff, Steve.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 19, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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great start
love the needles in SD!
Waves is a tremendously fun route. Glad you got on that one.
Get on Window Pane if you can. Unique and fun formation.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
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Climbing in the needles has been spectacular. The weather (up til about 3 hours ago)was beautiful and we made some really wonderful friends here. Heading into the Needles I was a bit ambivalent in terms of what to climb. I really wanted to get on Tricouni nail but I had heard and read that it was pretty tough and runout. Having climbed here a bit last summer I know roughly what that can entail even on a moderate outing and so I was a bit tenuous.
As we drove through the park I asked my wife to hang out at the car while I just go have a look, to see if the Nail was a daunting as what I had heard. It was, I decided- and moreso. I scrambled around to the Tent Peg, the poor man's Tricouni Nail. There was nary a soul (climber wise) to be seen but a couple of lads working a route in the Dakota Illinois formation. They apparently mistook me for one of their friends at a distance and so they called out to me. I replied, sorry, I'm just Steve, not Chris...
They asked, well Steve, what are you scoping out? I basically told them what I related here, and they clarified two things. One, I was on the wrong side of tent peg as a result of a poorly designed guidebook. Two, the Nail was totally classic and well within my abilities. While appreciative of the moral support and assumption that I would be man enough to lead the Nail, I assured them that in fact I was chickenshit and that maybe next year. By this time, Stef had gotten out to come see where I had gone off to and my new friends, Josh and Steve, offered to simply lead the Nail so I could try it on top rope first.
I felt a bit sheepish at accepting their offer but what the hell, I figured. They were nice enough and I wasnt likely to get assistance like that anywhere else. They ran off to retrieve their gear which they had left dangling off their project when they decided to give me the impromptu tour. I approached the gully where the route begins when they called over to me that they had a "better idea". Something they insisted which would be "way more classic".
Josh had it in his head to lead Superpin and hang a TR off that for Stef and I and his buddy Steve. I couldnt say no to that, so as Stef scrambled down to the road to shoot photos, I kept Steve company at the belay as we watched Josh work his magic. Clad only in fluorescent lycra he started up Superpin, giving us a play by play of what would happen if he fell here and how much further it would be til his next pro. He spoke of the risk at hand as though he were placing an order for Chinese food at the local Szechuan joint.
Long story short he led brilliantly and declared that I would follow next while other Steve belayed. He had no doubt that I would send cleanly in his wake, while I, donning my shoes felt a sick feeling in the pit of my stomach that I was about to make a huge ass of myself.
Steve calmly talked me up to the crux and while I did fall once, I was quite surprised that I got after it and finished it off cleanly otherwise.
this one is the Steve who is not me
I could not fathom the control and determination necessary to lead such a demanding route- but I decided that I owed it to myself to at least try the Nail in light of the fact that I just stood atop Superpin with only a little difficulty. Sitting up on that spire I paid homage to those who came before and I felt humbled to be in such a significant place, albeit via TR...
Now time for the Nail...I had been sweating bullets over the prospect of returning the following day to try and send the Nail. Josh had assured me we were better off doing Superpin because he wanted me to have the onsight of the Nail. I can not thank him enough for his foresight as I walked right up to it the next day, with my wife's encouragement and did it up without hesitation. The fact that I built it up in my mind made it that much more significant when I did get it, and the onsight made me even happier.
The counterbalance rappel scared the crap out of me, but it was good practice for rapping off P1 of Conn's Diagonal later in the afternoon when we didnt have time to finish with daylight, and the P1 bolts had no chains attached.
All told, the Needles will always hold a special place in my heart because no matter where I go or what I climb, I always seem to really face myself and come away better for it. I am also glad that there are other places one can climb just for shits and grins without having existential dialogues 20 feet above a manky old pin...
some of my pics are coming out small on here (thats what she said) so here is the link to the online album so you can see them in all of their splendor
http://picasaweb.google.com/stephen.richert
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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Porkchop Man, Dude this is a good fricken trip with Excellent Pics but you've been blowing it with these tiny pics.
digital age, bra. Dig it.
Bigger ain't always better, but I can't see throwing great adventures off short. Go big, if you can.
Glad you're havin' Fun.
Cheers.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2009 - 12:08am PT
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wait they are showing up small on your screen? they show up big on mine...should i resize them?
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2009 - 12:15am PT
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most likely a good part of it. we are going to be in San Diego by October (middle-ish) and that will be my base camp so I will definitely be spending some quality time in JT
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Sep 21, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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maybe resize a few... but things look cool so far...!!!
Good idea on the re-touched TR for the entire TR/Road Trip.
Should be fun, and I'll watch for the next installment!!!
Good luck to you both
Cheers
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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The last group had size....But the 1st group was small.
Very small. I didn't try to resize them.
Maybe I could have just clicked....I dunno.
Computers are a solo gig, onsite, for me.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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THE PIN!!!
oh man, i wish I had got on that somehow.
Pete Cleveland route! stout!
Is the retro bolt still there?
least I got on Tent Peg and Cerberus.
nice job Chops!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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i think it is. there are two bolts, one seems more for sentimental value because a good stout fart would blow it off. the other is only poor. some scary stuff, that.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Sep 21, 2009 - 01:18am PT
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Loved the Nail.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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I know that this is a cheap way out, but I am pretty blitzed and don't feel like re writing all the blog entries...
http://camsforthemiddleclass.blogspot.com
have a look if you would. I still have an entry or two to put in.
We made it through devils tower, the winds and some relatively obscure stuff in UT before we wound up in San Diego...now I am scrambling to get on some stuff up at the leap and possibly the Sierras if its not too late...ideas, partners, suggestions?
thanks,
Steve
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Good times!!!!
Enjoy the trip and keep us posted.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Love your stuff - always an audience for bouldering stuff in here too . Bring it on .
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 9, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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Thank you! It is very nice to know people get something out of it! I just finished the last post. Phew! Now I gotta get back out and so some more climbing! I really want to get on Jedi Mind Tricks at the buttermilks. I saw that one last year when I came through and I fell in love...but it was beyond me at the time. Maybe now I can do it.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Oct 10, 2009 - 12:01am PT
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PC, very honest, open good writing. Maybe see you out at J. Tree. Enjoy your explorations and adventures. Glad you're setting the example to live and breathe and experience life and freedom. Peace, lynne
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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Thanks Lynne! When will you be out there? I am planning on getting out there a good bit in late Oct- November.
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