Tony Yaniro-how come no ones talks about him?


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Social climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 27, 2009 - 08:41pm PT
Tony Yaniro puts up Grand Illusion- like the hardest route in the world and no one says anything. What gives?
Was he out of the club? Climbing with bad style? Stole someones wife??
Who knows?

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:42pm PT
"Out of the club" sounds about right.

Russ Walling

Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:43pm PT

Arkansas, I suppose
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
Didn't he invent the semicolon?
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 27, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
You guys are too much.

I did a climb with him in '77.
He was a hell of an aid climber.
Can't say much about the rest,...


Aug 27, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
Apparently PR's wife stole Tony.

Jes guessing.

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
I was out in Joshua Tree in 82 with some of my fellow Minnesotards and we had a TR set up on a climb called Baby Apes. None of us were getting much anywhere on the thing when this short, kind of muscular guy sits down and starts giving us beta for the climb. Naturally, being young/arrogant/stupid, etc, one of us says, "well maybe you'd like to just tie in and show us how it goes?"

So, Tony ties in and climbs the thing like it's about 5.8--giving us the full running beta the whole way up. When we missed a key part of it--he down climbed past the crux and then went up again, without falling.

Too bad he was apparently only an aid climber.


ron gomez

Trad climber
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
He's smarter than us and has more important things going on, so he doesn't spend all his spare time checking up on the ST! Actually has a career, pretty intellegent, was doing route setting a while back, but don't know what's up with him these days. He was one hell of a climber and knew how to train. He did some great routes both aid and free

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Aug 27, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
It's "smarter than we..." I know he was down here in Phoenix helping Mike Covington design and construct the new CilmbMax gym a couple of years ago.


Social climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 10:04pm PT
I thought that was Ray Jardine- wait he invented something else.

Not many could flash anything over 5.10 so if you want to climb harder you have to be willing to fall.

I think of Jim Erickson's ethic- how if he fell ever the climb didn't count. Until Half Dome

so pure

mirror mirror on the wall
who's the fairest?

Trad climber
Butte, America
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
He helped design parts of Spire Climbing Center in Bozeman, as well as their first public artificial boulder, FWIW.

Ice climber
Aug 27, 2009 - 10:51pm PT

Come on now guys and gals...............
Who amoung us has not been inspired by that photo of him at the top of Equinox 5.12c............Yelling............

Totally pumped and with veins purple with pleasure.
And then there is every girls wet dream with him training in his backyard. Equinox, so many great routes. He introduced formal specialized training to rock climbing when no one else was doing it..........
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Aug 27, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
Tony is a great guy, very down to earth, super talented and very motivated. His list of accomplishments is long and impressive.
Greg Barnes

Aug 27, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
Years ago at the Needles, I replaced bolts on Pyrotechnics (5.12 slab traverse to 5.12 face below the much more famous Pyromania) and the anchor for Lost at Sea, which has a Yaniro slab traverse finish option. Both of those are 5.12 slab traverses, and both looked utterly impossible.

Anyone ever repeat those?

How about The Avenger (5.13 left of Wailing Banshees)? Those bolts are probably still the originals (a mix of 1/4" and a few 3/8" buttonheads with homemade hangers).

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Aug 27, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
In the early days I used to teach climbing at Sonoma State University (college then), Lars Holbeck helped out. We were up on the Bubble cliff at St Helena showing off to the young college coed students when this short little stocky guy shows up. Of course Lars and I paid him no mind until one of the guys in his group said this guy is really good. He proceeded to prove it! I always thought Tony was a nice guy....sure he still is. As a side note, Lars and I were into the first generation downhill skateboarding and after guiding we would wisk down St Helena, sometimes hitting sixty mph! To be young again.

Aug 27, 2009 - 11:58pm PT
Last time I saw him was on I-5.

We rolled down our windows and bullshited while driving on the freeway .....
Jerry Dodrill

Sebastopol, CA
Aug 28, 2009 - 12:03am PT
(cross post from Mountain Project...)
In 1979(?), a student was quietly enrolled in a beginning rock climbing class at Pacific Union College, just down the Napa Valley in Angwin. Jim Hanson, the instructor (RIP), told me this one guy had an uncanny ability with knots and knowledge of gear in the classroom. Half way through the semester they went on a field trip to the Bubble (Mt. St. Helena) and this kid just hiked all the climbs on the cliff. Jim pulled him aside and said "You've climbed before, haven't you?" The hilarious part is that young Tony Yaniro had just freed The Grand Illusion, .13c at Sugarloaf. At the time it was the hardest route in the world! Go figure. He needed elective PE credits and was enrolled at PUC from '79-'81, or so.

Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
Aug 28, 2009 - 12:07am PT
Sandbagging at its best.

Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 28, 2009 - 01:44am PT
I first met Tony when he was about 18 or 19 years old;...he was up in Idyllwild by himself;...started talking to him, and found out he was a climber;...I felt sorry for him being all alone, and we invited him to dinner with us....later someone said that they had seem me out to dinner with Tony Yaniro;......I never asked him his last name, and he wasn't spouting about his accomplishments.....he was just a kid named Tony.....very impressed with his humble yet motivated accomplishments......(but back then;...he trained and worked out WAY to much for us lazy stoners.....that was considered cheating.....)...Bravo to Tony Yaniro...


Back in time..
Aug 28, 2009 - 01:53am PT
tony in the day, had a sharp set of tools?
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