Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
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so talent is hereditary?
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Walleye
climber
In the Aviary studying trees
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Aug 17, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
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It was cool to see the knobs and position up close like that. The kid shoulda done it in E.B's just for the sport of it as he didn't look to worked from the climb. Good job!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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supreme!
Peace
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Mustang
climber
From the wild, not the ranch
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:42pm PT
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awesome route, looked like he fumbled and back clipped the slung knob tho., not that he'd pop there.
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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I like when he said that Bacher bolting on lead, by hand was futuristic for the time :)
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Aug 17, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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You fu**ers, I feel so old and haven't even made it to the video!!!! I got high centered here when they start warming up:
"I meet my good friend Aaron Jones in Yosemite and we started by climbing the Regular Route on Half Dome and the Nose of El Cap in a day. We had climbed some easier routes early that week, but this was a big goal for both of us. We simuled 90% of Half Dome and short fixed the Nose; the end time was 19 hours."
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Aug 17, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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I feel that many of these modern climbers have little idea of what climbing was every time I watch one of these videos. Bolting on lead was cutting edge? Sorry, we all got out there and wacked those bolts in by hand. If a lowly 5.11 R/X is too easy how about a video of Southern Belle for a change?
Or better yet Why don't you get out and make a test piece? Or better yet make your own Rich Romano/Steve Grossman/John Redhead routes to test the future generations on.
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Tami
Social climber
Vancouver, Canada
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Aug 17, 2009 - 06:49pm PT
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rick d I don't think Hayden was disrespectful in speaking of the B/Y tho' your post gives me the impression you thought so.
Correct me if I'm wrong!
Hayden is taking Yosemite115 as his first year university course. "101" being for those of us who might need the entry level - but Hayden, 18 ( or gonna be this year ), a powerful climber, is quite able to take on classic testpieces. And who wouldn't want to do this ? In memoriam to JB and in consideration of the most wonderful Dave Yerian , I can only imagine what Joy & Fun Hayden saw in wanting to climb this route.
In the future, time will happen for Hayden to do put up his own big routes. For now, I - among many - take great pleasure in watching Hayden become a young man in the Valley - the way so many of us did so many years ago.
Okay so I didn't become a man....didn't magically grow a penis........thankgod......but the Valley was definitely the Granite Crucible for myself & many of my friends.
But the word "crush" cracks me up when used for climbing. For me it still serves better for grade nines who got a horndog on for somebody or for what happens when you hit a turtle with yer truck.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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so Bachar/Yerian has become a kids play thing....
Lucky kid to have so little in the way of fear...
Cool post, love the video....
Brings me more respect for that climb.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
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Really well-produced video. Thanks for bringing it to our attention. It once again proves that principle we learn over and over and over again in climbing, we have nothing to fear but fear itself. And I am really grateful that Bachar gets plenty of acknowledgement by Kennedy. Love (along with some upthread) that stance bolting and stance/hook bolting is “futuristic”!! The production could easily have been a facile treatment, Hayden's ascent made to seem as if it trivialized the first ascensionists, minimizing what they went through 28 years ago. No, there was plenty of respect displayed here and if you watch really closely you can see Hayden really does notice the spreadout protection. Great!! Hurrah for the next bunch of young climbers!!
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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I’ll Pipe Up, Knob delight! Did the First two pitches in 91 with Dave Tyler. ( Lighting retreat ) the route is beautifully laid out. Old School Face. Pitty it was my only shot at it.
Bruce.
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10b4me
Gym climber
Happy Boulders
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Aug 17, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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thank you Tami
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 17, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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The kid just flashes it. Great talent and cool head.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Aug 17, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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Beautiful....
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 17, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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I feel that many of these modern climbers have little idea of what climbing was every time I watch one of these videos.
It's been twelve years since I last saw Hayden, and he wasn't talking much about climbing history then -- most six-year-olds don't -- but I've met his daddy a couple of times and my guess is that if there's one eighteen-year-old in the world that has a sense of the history of climbing, it'd be him.
rick d, whoever you are, maybe you know the kid really well, and can tell us that in fact he's a clueless poser who somehow tricked BD into making a video of him, but you know what? I doubt it.
David Harris
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Aug 17, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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Like father like son. Hayden's dad, Michael, sunbathing upper left in photo on Latok in 1978. Skinny guys climb great!
George Lowe and yours truly, front and center. Donini photo.
It was wonderful to meet Hayden with his dad at a barbeque at my house last month. Hayden shows respect and deserves respect.
Fantastic video!
-Jello
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Mikemcee
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 07:58am PT
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Did Shagadelic on Sunday and checked out the B-Y on the way down. I just can't imagine how he stays so calm and makes it look so effortless.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Porn, CA
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Aug 18, 2009 - 08:14am PT
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Really well done video.
Gotta love how he cruises that testpiece. Wow.
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