Classic El Cap & Half Dome Wall Survey C Cole Climbing 1986

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2009 - 09:56am PT
From the October 1986 issue of Climbing, this is the third and last classic Valley wall survey. Written in the midst of the Platinum Age by my partner, the ever snappy and old school, Charles Cole.















deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Aug 8, 2009 - 10:15am PT
That was an awesome piece for sure. Came and went without a lot of fanfare though, even though it was the first documentation of many ascents.

thanks for posting it, Steve.

PS. SInce you might have high quality scans, any chance you'd put them in a PDF? You can't really read the print on the scans as posted.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 8, 2009 - 10:39am PT
Thanks for another great post, Mr. Historian Grossman!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
For all you Magoos out there, the fine print without the hand lens and screen tan!









Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2009 - 11:23am PT
Its more than just a bump!
GDavis

Trad climber
Aug 15, 2009 - 11:51am PT
Wow, interesting read on the wings of steel ascent... every other placement a hole? Who knew?
bringmedeath

climber
la la land
Aug 15, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
Neat! I think a bunch of the stuff like this you have posted is some of the best stuff on this site! Thanks!

Some of those descriptions are pretty funny. I just spit all over the screen on the Artic Sea one! HAHAHA, sure bashed some of those routes and styles. Never realized those brothers fixed half the wall on those routes! That would suck to jug that much, mother of god. Camping was one of the main reasons to climb a wall for me. Thanks again for all the cool stuff Steve, make me want to be a non wanker and climb again... sorta...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Aug 17, 2009 - 02:55am PT
Yup, the "ever snappy" and ever-perpetrating-the-lie, Charles Cole.

Just one more evidence of the in-print defamation written by a guy either unable or unwilling to simply walk up to the base of it... or he actually did, and then just decided to lie anyway.

I'm glad that the "old school" is over--never learned anything anyway. lol
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Aug 17, 2009 - 03:02am PT
Oh, and just one more correction for the "ever snappy" Mr. Cole and his subman. The Sea had nowhere near 300 hook moves when we did the fifth ascent. There were more holes than hook moves in the route, and the amount of chipping and bat-hooking was impressive. Quite a manufactured rather than "natural" line.

GREAT route anyway! One of the best in history!

Just noting the fundamental disconnect between "natural" and "great." They don't always (or even often) go together. Sometimes a forced, manufactured line is still simply awesome; and the Sea is forced, manufactured, AND awesome.
TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
Aug 17, 2009 - 06:58am PT
Shameless edit: Aww geez, not this tripe again.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Aug 17, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Shameless edit in response: Aww Cole! This tripe again? It was bad enough the first time it was published. But again?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2009 - 08:29am PT
Bwana- You guys were okay with every other placement being drilled or otherwise enhanced on WOS right?

Out of 145 pointed Logan hook placements how many did NOT involve a drill, chisel or hammer to improve the eventual placement?

Since you and Mark have been sqaubbling of late, perhaps it is time to let the healing begin with an honest answer...

Just one teensy little answer. Tiny but exciting Bwanadimples do count!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2009 - 02:51pm PT
Still waiting for that magic number?!?

C'mon tadpoles hazard a guess...80% enhanced...seventy five percent??? This is the Big Lie we're considering here. LOL
Fogarty

climber
Back in time..
Sep 19, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
Steve thanks for the blast from the past, this was a great storry, I almost forgot all about Chuck doing this...

Thanks Mike
Pate

Trad climber
The High And Lonely
Sep 19, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
I want to hear a WOS confession. It's like a heavyweight bout that gets hyped forever but no one ever throws down.
Jack Burns

climber
Sep 19, 2009 - 09:10pm PT
I always wondered why Lost in America is called Cowboys in Space in this article. Maybe that was the tentative name Greg and Randy had in mind before hand (or possibly because of the "Lovetron" hook moves). I remember from Greg's article about the route (in his book Mixed Emotions) that they saw some sort of rocket test while on the first ascent and that got them to wondering what it would be like if an attack happened while on the Captain and topping out to a barren wasteland, becoming "lost in america".
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2009 - 09:25am PT
Names can evolve and change. The Endall Wall became Mescalito. The Hydra became Sunkist. The Real Nose became The Competitive Edge...etc. The Cowboy thing was real popular around that time.
Walleye

climber
In the Aviary studying trees
Sep 20, 2009 - 10:29am PT
"Mandatory off-widths in the the upper section make this a valley locals dream, but a visitors nightmare"

Sure used to be that way, maybe not so much anymore with the advent of giant cams....
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
Big Ole Bump, close to the road!
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Oct 29, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
Steve:

I'm continually impressed with the cool historical stuff you post. Your ability to find-scan-post classic climbing articles is unsurpassed! I go on and off reading Supertopo, so unfortunately I miss a lot. I'm just curious if you climb anymore? If so I've missed it, I'd love to know what you have been up to. Thanks for any info!
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