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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 31, 2009 - 04:53am PT
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Hi all,
So tonight I had Tollhouse Brian and I had a shop mission.
For those of you that are unfamiliar with F.E.C.A.L, Foothill Ethics Climbing Association of Lucidity (we're the shit), I though I might share with you what we do on a school night!
Time to make a 3/8 pickle fork. For those of you that don't know Brian he was last seen on Zodiac 2 weeks ago. Anyhow here's a summary of our nights work (with pics)
The Goal : a 3/8 inch tuning fork :)
Here is what we started with pins and some random metal
Then a little drilling had to happen
Next we put the tool-to-be in a vise
The fun begins!
The 3/8ths slot is almost done...
The first (and only) mistake - the swage hole should have been perpendicular to the slot. Oh well I'll do another and then give this one to mucci :)
next I polished it up a bit
Now time to see how those 3/8 bolts look in it.
Now all the beer and work has made me hungry!
It's a multi-tool!!!!!
And looks good with buttwiper light!
Cheers!!!!!
kev
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Joe Monectose
Big Wall climber
Oakdale, CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 10:38am PT
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bud light.marlboro light.go buy some shitty blow too.
americans have such great taste.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 10:50am PT
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That's pretty sweet, kev.
Joe, WTF?
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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 11:14am PT
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Bluey,
Joe is just another fake name used to post by that rodentbirdtard troll.
kev
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 31, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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F.E.C.A.L.- foothill ethics choppers association of lamos
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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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fattrad,
Looks like my mutant fabrication report has stirred up quite the SlanderTaco sh#t show.
Don't worry there will be photos of it in action - comming to a forum near you soon!!
kev
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Joe Monectose
Big Wall climber
Oakdale, CA
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Jul 31, 2009 - 11:43am PT
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im new here, but yes i like your style,kev.i am not a tard ,i am a trad whas your second post for tuning forks?that was funney.
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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
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Joe?
The jury's still out. You might be real or might be another troll. We'll see with time.
kev
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
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Nice TR! How is the pro on the route F*#kOff 5.7??? Is that topo accurate?
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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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fattrad,
The annual dues are one hanger or chain which has used when a route was retrobolted which you have graciously removed.
All dues are used for putting up new routes or replacing EXISTING original mank and such.
Russ,
Nah, i was just describing some route to Tollhouse and didn't remember the name of it. Whatever it was is 5.7. Glad you enjoyed the making of a fine product by Mutant Fabrication! A Tacoite has cheerfully volunteered to do a full TR on the testing of the Fecal Fork....
kev
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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You're gonna pull a 3/8" Fixe stainless bolt out of granite with that toy?
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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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Ksolem,
I had a lot of discussion with folks about removing 3/8 bolts. The rawls are easy and here's what I was told about the wedgies.... Seems like there are three different schools on this.
Step 1)
a) Make a fork and use a hammer to tap out.
OR
b) Hacksaw it flush and tap it in.
OR
c) Use a wrench with a big breaker bar to shear it off flush and tap it in.
Step 2)
If (b) or (c) was used in step one, patch small hole left from tapping in the bolt and put some granite dust in it
If (a) was used above put nails in the hole and patch it, and cover with granite dust. This (the nails) makes reusing the hole kinda hard on the drill ;)
I've use forks made from pins before to pull quarter inchers and that works super well. So in theory it should work. We'll see. I'm going to make another one with harder steel also. I think the steel was hard enough but i'll have to test it to see. Regardless I will have the backup methods in my pack.
kev
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:19pm PT
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Here's a suitable tool for old bolts:
5 piece bolts come out via dis-assembly.
Modern high quality 3/8 bolts will not pull out with that tool you made.
I need to know how to remove some of these:
Anyone done this?
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kev
climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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Ksolem,
That's way overkill for old bolts. A simple #5 LA with a .25inch notch works fine - done that before. The only concern with the fork we made last night is the softness of the metal. It was all we had lying around and another one may need to be made from cromally or something.
I'll see what Tollhouse thinks about that bolt. He actually puts in things anchored to concrete for a living. Rumor has it that another device is being machined elsewhere and I might get it tonight. We'll see.
Remember I'm only talking about wedgies here.
Got more pics of that bolt or a link to it? Email me it if you do. Worst case you could grind it all the way down.
kev
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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That's a Petzl "Long Life," advertised as a tamper proof anchor.
Some idiot placed a row of them right next to a crack at Trapper Dome which many folks had climbed clean over the years. I've left them alone because, like certain types of brain surgery it looks like the damage done by removal will outweigh the benefits...
Yeah, I've done the #5 LA thing too. The carbon steel pry bar with rubber handle is highly effective, a finger saver on big jobs, and it's nice having the extra juice when you need it.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:02pm PT
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Kris: 18v or larger angle grinder should take care of the LongLife bolts. Whack the head part that holds on the hanger and see what is under there??? Then pound it in or maybe be able to grab the pin and extract?
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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First off, Nice fork kev! That has a serious angle which may prove to be usefull for those wedgies!
Ksolem- Your toy looks like a ten penny nail puller, You could have at least cut a 1/4 inch groove in it like I did in my bar.
As to your question about the Petzl bolts...I have removed 3 of those in my day. They are difficult but not impossible. First you can center punch the shaft, then use a regular arrow to get some purchase under the hanger, finally use an appropriate 3 foot bar with appropriate size groove milled, a little elbow grease and POOF no more 1/2 inch power drilled bolt.
The other method involves whacking the hanger back and forth until you have loosened up the bolt's purchase, then pull with a large bar. This method has worked twice.
As to the hole in the above fork, Kev just carve a groove around the circumference of the handle and swage on a thin cable, Kinda like a certain butter knife I saw on another forum.
Good work on the late posting of this TR, not much drunk word fumbling!
Peace
Mucci
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Hi Russ - The flange which holds the hanger on is part of the bolt, press fit through the hanger. Grinding it off and then somehow getting a hold of and funking out the pin is what I've been thinking. The pin is flush when driven in tight...
Mucci - I've worn out stacks of soft iron tuning forks. That "10 penny nail puller" (not) has removed bucket loads of old bolts and still looks like new.
What do you mean by "center punch the pin?"
I've placed a couple Long Life's. The bolt slides easily into a 12mm hole, and then the pin is driven in 'till flush which spreads and anchors the bolt. If the pin could be removed, the bolt should come out easily.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jul 31, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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K- Provided the hole was drilled a little deeper, you punch the pin through the expanding flanges into the hole. This breaks the grip of the pin, thus loosening the expansion grip. Then bang it a few times to gain purchase under the hanger. Finally, use a LARGE 3 FOOT Pry bar with a 1/2inch slot cut to remove those pesky 12mm bolts. Pull and repeat!
Just teasing about your puller, I like that thing looks hand friendly, but I would grind out a proper slot for pulling just 1/4 inchers.
I have pulled Long LIfes, they suck, but are no harder than anything else you use good form and attack it!
Remember: fill those holes, PC crete and a fine selection of the areas rock dust, add a towel and a small tupperware container to mix appropriately.
Have fun
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ChirpioBartholomew
Boulder climber
Dixon
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Jul 31, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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Are you guys selling those? Lots of routes to chop...
Oh, wait a min... What are we choppin? All I need to join your team is a bolt and chain?
Oh boy...
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