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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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I'm needing a dose of sport climbing. A big dose.
One area relatively near here I'd like to go to is Ten Sleep. Got the Huey guide and checked out the photos. Checked out photos here on the taco as well. And I saw what is posted on RC.com.
Still I'd like to see and hear more about this place. It's clear that the only real source of good info is from the tacos here.
Anyone have anything they want to share?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Jul 15, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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I'll try to write more later, but it's well worth a trip...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 15, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
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Crimper, keep the faith, you'll be okay, take some cams to bed with you, somehow this sport climbing obsession will pass. If, however, you're in an addictive stage, I'll say that I spent an afternoon at Tensleep a couple of years ago. The wall I went to was in the sun and very hot but the white limestone was very high quality. I since have learned that it is possible to chase the sun or the shade depending on conditions. Hope you get more definitive info.- look forward to your TR.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 15, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Shiii-t wish you'd mentioned this earlier, i have some access to some of that beta. I'd have sent you a book. Drop me a line at my mac account. i'm out the door now. but I can give you phone contact with those who know who to know on this topic. World class bivy options, as well. drop me a line, there may be giggles to come...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 15, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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Lord Slime loves that area, often talks about it. I haven't managed to get there myself though.
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:00pm PT
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Generally speaking, I loathe sport climbing. However, I'm convinced I could spend days in the over-bolted sport hole that is Tensleep... all the routes were really, really fun, the guidebook is hilarious, there's plenty of shade and almost no climbers....
Really, the place has a lot of bolts but also a lot of unique features and routes on high quality rock.
I really liked it even in the middle of August. (Until my bivy sack got stolen.)
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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I'll be there in late August, so I will look forward to your TR if you go before then. It's got bolts! I'm thinking climb to one shiny thingy and then the next shiny thingy. :)
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Decko
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
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Ten Sleep rocks for climbing, partner and I, (wife) spent a week there a couple of years back......super fun, fun free camping....nothing really of a town or services, but loads of routes, no one around, great scenery......
Yea oh yea......if it were just a little closer.......
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Jul 15, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
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From Mountain project:
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Jul 15, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
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If you have a 4x4 with high clearance, decent free camping can be had. IMHO the guidebook looks a lot better than it is; more emphasis was placed on pictures and flashy imagery than factual information/organization that could be helpful. The locals were pretty dour when we went through, but that could be because they are leery of folks who ain't white. Could have just been a bad hair day. Who knows.
My bias against Tensleep is largely personal- I can see going back there under alternative circumstances and loving it. The approaches are quite steep and it can be tough distinguishing some of the trails and features. My wife had recently broken her ankle and that pissed her off which made climbing together less fun. Also being diabetic, watching my car full of insulin get hotter than a convection oven in the sun, was an uncomfortable feeling.
Once you know your way around it would probably be better too. First time out can be pretty bewildering.
I liked wild iris better. I may be crucified for saying that, but so be it.
I have a few pics here of Ten Sleep.
http://picasaweb.google.com/stephen.richert/TenSleepWyoming#
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charley
Trad climber
nw pa.
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Jul 15, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
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You mean you don't like the sport wall in boulder canyon.
smiley face.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 15, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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I think GOClimb was headed that way for July 4th weekend. Perhaps he'll share?
If you combine Ten Sleep with Lander (e.g., Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon), then be sure to stop along the way in the Yellowstone Drug Store in Shoshoni for a fabulous malt or milkshake...they have something like 60 flavors.
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reddirt
climber
Elevation 285 ft
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Jul 15, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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I too am looking fwd to your TR Crimpie!
Kinda OT but I was just checking out Aaron Huey's webpage the other day. Some pretty amazing (non-climbing) photography. Definitely might be enough to until you get out to Ten Sleep.
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Jul 16, 2009 - 12:24am PT
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"If you have a 4x4 with high clearance, decent free camping can be had."
I have a 1993 Saturn SL2 (read: no clearance, two wheel POS car) and I was fine. Found great camping in Bighorn without trouble.
"The locals were pretty dour when we went through, but that could be because they are leery of folks who ain't white."
Oh yeah, there's that too. We went to a restaurant in the town of Ten Sleep where people at the bar were just casually talking about how the Jews are evil f*#ked up people as if it were normal, average dinnertime conversation. There was also a sign someone had written in Sharpie in the bathroom that said "Jews suck", which is less offensive and more just kind of weird. They might not be so smart around those parts.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2009 - 12:47am PT
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Thanks for the input. I like limestone. And pockets. And steeper stuff. And for whatever reason I'm thinking a lot about this place. The pictures looks like it is such fun!
I'm also dreaming of Maple Canyon after reading about the Fish's recent trip there. :)
Now, just to carve the time out and we're going. But don't tell BrassNuts that there are bolts there. :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 16, 2009 - 03:25am PT
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kind of like Shelf road on Steroids...
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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Let's see.
The rock is really good, sharp (bring tape for fingers) and mostly iin the 5.11 range.
Bring stiff, pointy shoes (tell Brassballs to bring his Synchos) or a new pair of Sportiva TC Pros.
There's no water out there in the free camping so bring lots of that. The camping is mostly on forest service sites, so it's primitive and free. The best sites are "improved" FS or BLM sites and come with tables and firepits but cost $$$$$.
It took us 7.5 hours to drive directly to Buffalo and then swing over to Ten Sleep.
The town of Ten Sleep has services and a funky western bar/restaurant with a great juke box and a good pool table. Since it can rain alot in the canyon you might seek shelter and distractions in this, the only bar in town.
There is lots of firewood to be gathered out there so no need to bring your own wood.
A 70meter rope works well for some of the newer and longer routes out there.
Mostly the runouts AREN'T and the climb ratings are comparable to Shelf Road.
My Honda Element made it into the campsites and on roads without a problem with clearance.
Have Fun.........BRING BUG JUICE!!!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Jul 16, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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SPORT CLIMBING!!!! NOOOOOOOOOO!!! DON'T DO IT!
If you must.....do the following.
Clip a cam or wired nut or Lowe-Ball to each bolt with an extra biner then clip into that. It'll feel like you're in the high country. Kinda. And clip approach shoes to the back of your harness and wear a small pack on all routes. Duct tape your Nalgenes. Tape on crack mitts for all routes and bivy at the top of the last route of the day. Voila! Its an alpine trad weekend.
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Jennie
Trad climber
Idaho Falls
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Jul 16, 2009 - 03:27pm PT
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Stemming on Beerbong, 5.10
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jul 16, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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""We went to a restaurant in the town of Ten Sleep where people at the bar were just casually talking about how the Jews are evil f*#ked up people as if it were normal . . .."
Nice.
Glad to see the place hasn't lost that authentic western flavor.
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