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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2009 - 10:21am PT
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Is there a Black Canyon Guidebook out? I've always liked that area and would like to get one and do some more routes there.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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It's a good one, two thumbs up!
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
80' from the Hankster
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I would hold out for the book Josh Wharton is working on. No idea when it's coming out but he's climbed just about every route in the Black. The current guide has a lot of bad info and misleading topos; you can probably get better beta for routes off http://www.mountainproject.com/.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Does anyone really WAIT for a guidebook to come out?
That's sort of like sitting in the woods in the PAC NW waiting for Sasquatch to go by, ain't it?
(i.e. maybe it'll happen, maybe it won't)
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
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I think most people use the Rumsfeld approach: they go to climb with the beta they have, not they beta they wish they had.
I personally tend to combine the mtnproject info with the guidebook, cuz just being down there and trying to get out is usually plenty of adventure for this lightweight. YMMV. I bet Mark can take care of hisself alright.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Robbie's topos are sh#t. I like the guy, but his topos are sh#t. The rest of the guidebook is filled with self congratulatory spray and other stale fireside crap left over from the 80' and 90's - with very little useful information on the the actual climbing. Stop by the ranger station and hand sketch a copy of the topo there. They generally have the FA's topo and/or a well drawn and detailed version. That is they way things were done long before the guidebooks. Mt Project info helps as well. The routes are generally long and complex. If you want to actually enjoy your climb, I'd definitely do my homework on each route.
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Vic
climber
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Jun 26, 2016 - 02:37pm PT
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After many years of work, I am pleased to announce that there is a new guidebook for the Black Canyon...
The Black. A Comprehensive Climbing Guide to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is available through K. Daniels Publishing:
http://www.kdanielspublishing.com/shop/guide-books/the-black/
At 512 pages, this full color guidebook is packed with dozens of new lines, detailed approach information and pitch by pitch descriptions, pictures of the walls, first ascent stories, historic photos and action shots, ten essays and hand drawn topos for some of the better routes in the Black.
A huge debt of gratitude goes to Josh Wharton, Jonathan Schaffer, Ed Webster, Topher Donahue, Kent Wheeler, Steve Levin, Jeff Achey, Robert Warren, Jimmy Newberry and so many others who helped make this book happen.
See you in the Black this fall!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 26, 2016 - 03:33pm PT
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The Black.
notorious for spitting out prancer Californians.
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Vic
climber
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Jun 26, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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The Black. notorious for spitting out prancer Californians.
No way. Lots of hype and mystic, that's all. You can get into trouble anywhere, California in particular. I've been equally as gripped on the East Side - Whitney Portal, Wheeler Crest to name a few. The Black might not be the friendliest destination for climbing, but it's a magical place to experience... at least once :)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 26, 2016 - 09:50pm PT
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Can't wait to get it!!!
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 26, 2016 - 09:58pm PT
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The topo drawings look really good .......
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jun 27, 2016 - 07:47am PT
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Been waiting for this one! I understand that there are lots of new climbs.
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Vic
climber
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Jun 27, 2016 - 11:05am PT
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Yeah! Quite a bit of new stuff since 2002 for sure. Although many of those routes are on the internet by now, many are not. Lots of quality new lines, including what are now some of the best at the grade in the Black.
Previously untapped and unknown areas of the Canyon like Cedar Point Gully now have multiple Grade IV and Grade V lines in the 5.10+ to 5.11+ range. There are a lot more options on the South Rim for those shoulder seasons when it's too hot to climb on the North Rim's sunny walls.
This book also puts an emphasis on the 5.10 and below options in the Park, with detailed topos and pitch by pitch descriptions, including suggestions for variations, hybridizations and notable link-ups to stay in the shade.
I also tried to highlight some of the often overlooked obscurities like Lauren's Arete, Ground Control to Major Tom, Musical Partners, Moveable-Stoned-Voyage, Great White Wall, Ghost Dancer, Highway 61 Revisited, The Ripe Stuff, Black Shadow Arete, Debutante's Ball, etc.
It's still the Black - lots of chossy, heads up, alpine style climbing - but hopefully this book will help more people find those diamonds in the rough.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jul 15, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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Book looks great the place spectacular.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 15, 2016 - 04:25pm PT
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Lucky you, DMT!
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Jul 15, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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So, I may have already told this story on some thread here, but your (Vic's) reference to Great White Wall, made me think of my ascent with my buddy Clare Dunning, some 25+ years ago. We arrived Friday night as usual and climbed our main objective on Saturday (I can't remember what it was). That evening, we ran into Jim Nigro -- Black Canyon legend (didn't know it at the time) who, realizing that we were looking to do something on Sunday suggested Great White Wall. We knew nothing about it -- back then, you really had to study the archives at the ranger station to keep up with what routes had been done in the Black Canyon.
He proceeded to make a topo from memory, on the spot, of a climb that he had done once more than 4 years ago. Turns out, the second-half wasn't a bad representation of reality; not so much the first half. I don't know what we were on, but it didn't look like the topo. In the end, there was probably nothing harder than moderate 5.10, but the terrain was rotten and hard-to-protect, and it didn't look anything like Jim Nigro's frigging topo. Did I say he seemed like a very nice man?
Fortunately, there is a huge, no-mistake-about-it ledge, replete with archeological evidence about half-way up. After that, we stayed on-route. I consider this to be one of my truly great Black Canyon experiences. I loved the route -- for that matter - I love my buddy Clare..
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jul 21, 2016 - 11:16am PT
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Would you trust a topo from this man? (Jim Nigro - Lotus Creek 1980?)
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| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
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