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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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Which is it?
It's amazing (although I guess since I haven't spent much time at all there in the last 30 years, it isn't) that I know next to nothing of any current routes in the Valley.
My last guide is the yellow Meyers one.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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I'm guessing the SuperTopo guides are the most up-to-date. However, I highly recommend going with the green Roper guide; it's way more exciting to reach the base of the described corner that leads to the top, only to realize the corner goes on for about another six pitches.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Falcon press, ST doesn't offer the "Obscure".
I second the Green Roper, nothing says adventure like "Little is known about this route except that it wanders up the 4,000 foot, low angle face. By careful routefinding it is possible to avoid using aid"
clouds rest, Northwest face IV 5.8
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Gene
climber
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Mark,
Gotta go with Roper. You probably own it. Don’t put too much emphasis on his gear recommendations. I think the Dihedral Wall has been done recently without the required 80 pitons.
Roper requires translation for today’s climbers. When he says “The loose flakes and great exposure combine to make this a very adventurous climb” he means "kitty litter death."
gm
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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Oh yeah, I used that one, although I'm thinking it won't have much current information, eh?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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probably the most recent
Don Reid 1994 Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs
but the previous Myers & Reid 1987 guide (the "blue" guide) is actually more complete though not so up-to-date.
Clint Cummins has been keeping some track on things, and you can see his public offerings at this URL:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/update.htm
A more modern thing to do is to look at what's available at
Mountain Project.
SuperTopo has a select book out that includes routes done after the 1994 comprehensive guide. It's worth a look. There is the "SuperTopo" problem that these climbs become popular just because they're in a SuperTopo guide...
My dream would be that all the routes (pictures, topos, descriptions, history, et alia) would be available, online, for free...
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I prefer the green (turquoise?) Meyers & Reid guide, "Yosemite Climbs".
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Green Roper Guide is still the best, for the routes less traveled.
And within that book are Gems, if you take the time to seek them out.
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| Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
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