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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
Erik of Oakland
Gym climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2009 - 12:41am PT
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jello tried this twice, including a dead-of-winter attempt, I believe. Anyone familiar with the story?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Jun 16, 2009 - 11:12am PT
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good question.
story time?
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Peter Arbic
climber
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Sep 30, 2017 - 02:10am PT
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HAHAHA ..A true alpine ascent to finish of "pillar" was completed sans summit (ridge) in 1989. Russians used how much fixed rope ? added 200 meters of unclimbed terrain... .Justifying bad style is one thing, claiming this is alpine style is just
plain lying.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Sep 30, 2017 - 07:49am PT
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"Kiss or Kill" by Mark Twight, in Climbing magazine many years back. Other people tried the pillar as well.
What happened when you went there Peter?
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Child of the Abyss
climber
Seattle, WA
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I'm pretty sure that Peter Arbic's attempt was the strongest attempt on the route thus far, and the highest anyone got in alpine style.
I'm not sure if Lowe tried it in winter, but Babanov definitely did, on one of his siege-style attempts.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, erik of oakland... and to those that bumped this up...
very interting... hope to see more about this...
also-- a happy 'jello' note, to see this...
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Peter Arbic
climber
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Oct 19, 2017 - 01:04am PT
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Hey Al Pickle ...reached the glacier at the top of the "pillar" in 7? days with Jim E, Erico Rosso, and Kurt Walde . Three days climbing past Jello and Dr Doom's high point but still not the tippy top.
Frozen toed and out of food, the Italians figured that was close enough a la Moonflower and decided to bail with one of our two ropes and the next day I dragged big J up to the bottom of the final rock band with the other. A good hard look at my companion and a scope of what lay between us and the "summit" convinced me that getting down alive was going to be enough of a miracle .....we descended the Bonnington route with 2 more bivys.
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Andy de klerk
Mountain climber
South Africa
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Oct 19, 2017 - 12:40pm PT
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Good choice PA
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 19, 2017 - 02:28pm PT
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real deal
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Nov 22, 2017 - 01:06am PT
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Thanks for the links^^
Wild route.
Guys looked like they were having fun!
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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic |
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