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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 29, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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A couple of questions...
1. What is the best glue to attach climbing holds to clean Yosemite granite?
2. Are there any hold companies out there looking for some press? I have a little project that I will GUARANTEE will get you global attention!
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WBraun
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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The best glue for this type of application would be the stuff Cal Trans uses to glue on the reflectors to the pavement.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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Yea, I heard that. However, isn't it like grey or blackish? I need something bright (yellow or red) Maybe I can play around with adding paint as an additive. I need them to REALLY stick but I also want them to be visible. Perhaps if the holds are bright yellow and red then the glue color doesn't matter.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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Someone post up that old magazine article about Jardine wanting to glue a plastic 5.8 up El Cap...didn't it show him with a big vat of glue or something?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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May 29, 2009 - 01:44pm PT
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No rock shuld be glued in Yosemite , but for information purposes only I offer this info. The stuff Caltrans uses is called PC-7. It's a 2 part epoxy which dries into a grey color. Very strong & it seems pretty durable.
Keep glue out of natural climbing areas. It is a bad precident for others to follow.
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the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 29, 2009 - 01:56pm PT
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There already is a fully glued on route in the valley. If you don't know where it is I'm not saying, since it would be chopped immediately. However there are no bolts or cracks so you have to free solo it, because the dude who put it up believes anything but free solo is poor style.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 29, 2009 - 02:12pm PT
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You can buy it at Ace.
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Barcus
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
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May 29, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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OK IHP,
I'm still waiting for the "punchline". lol
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Double D
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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While you're at it, could you put a couple of footholds on Butterballs? They always seemed a bit sparse for me. Dayglo pink would be good, then I won't accidently miss them.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 29, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
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The problem with the stuff Werner mentioned is it's a bugger to work with on verticle surfaces. You have to mix it, then wait about 1/2 hour before it becomes thick enough not to run down a verticle surface. Then you need a means of keeping the hold in place for the couple of days it takes for a full cure.
It might not be the strongest adhesive, but in my experience either the hold or what you glue it to fails before the glue. Even a small hold will have a couple square inches of area to bond.
And I only glued to concrete, so don't get yur fethers ruffled.
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WBraun
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
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In the old dazes before internet Bridwell used to yank peoples chains saying he's going to open a shop in El Cap meadows selling bolt on holds and glue on holds for making El Cap routes go free.
Some people really got twisted hearing that.
Hahahaha .....
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jstan
climber
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May 29, 2009 - 05:11pm PT
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This is an area wherein I have at least a little experience. Based upon my Facelift data I can assure everyone that the reflectors glued to the surface of the roads in Yosemite is the form of debris beside the roads that most aggressively challenges cigarette butts as the primary form of trash.
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| Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic |
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