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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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May 20, 2009 - 05:05pm PT
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That's my work, and thanks. I was meaning to start spreading the work, but haven't had a chance yet. Unfortunately it doesn't look like I'll have time to follow all the boards, so if you have questions and don't mind posting them on RC I'll get to them sooner.
-aric.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 20, 2009 - 06:14pm PT
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Same sh#t, different batch, and the beat goes on...
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada, CA
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May 20, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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bump
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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May 21, 2009 - 01:03am PT
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Hate to say it but Im still going to climb on mine. I just love the red alien, probably my favorite piece of gear, followed by yellow and green. Anyone out there going to abandon CCH based on this new information?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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May 21, 2009 - 06:39am PT
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I still have a yellow and a green but will NEVER buy annother CCH product. No reason buy Faliens with the new METELIOUS Master cam available.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 21, 2009 - 10:18am PT
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I always use my Aliens with a grain of salt free climbing. If I have a short runout to another placment I throw one in, if I have to run it out, I place two just to be sure. They are great for aid, very fast to place, love em.
I read this report and it looks like the guy put allot of time and effort into it. Therefore I question why he did not test new product instead of buying secondhand Aliens obviously used and battered to test. Seems a little unfair to CCH and throws the whole testing into question.
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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May 21, 2009 - 10:56am PT
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Hey Guys, I'm finally catching up...
As I said over on RC my only concern is that there are obviously defective cams out there in the wild and climbing on untested ones is probably a bad idea. I don't particularly care if CCH stays in business or not and frankly I think Aliens are a good design, but unreliably made. Get them tested to whatever you're comfortable climbing over and have a bit of peace of mind that they won't explode.
-aric.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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May 21, 2009 - 11:45am PT
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 11:53am PT
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^^^ That's awesome!
I have some Alien Hybrids. I'll never buy from CCH again, and the hybrids will be used under the assumption they won't necessarily hold a fall until I've tested them in some way that does not involve getting them "pull tested" by CCH.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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May 21, 2009 - 04:59pm PT
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This is really an interesting topic.
Unfortunately we sure could use a lot more data.
There is certainly the issue of testing a sufficient sample to determine what the distribution of forces is to cause a failure in new gear. That is a question that probably should be done by an independent lab, with the results published for everyone to see. The question of who pays for the testing is interesting. If the manufacturers donate the gear and pay for the testing, will it be like the "rating agency" problem in the securities markets.
Another interesting question though is whether your used gear is ok. The concept of failure at a single force is fine assuming that the gear is discarded after a single test. If it is not, then it would be useful to understand how to determine whether to discard gear. Aircraft failures have occurred at within design envelope forces due to cycles of loading. We all know that you can break a wire if you keep bending it enough.
What does one bounce on a piece do? I suspect we would know a lot more about this if more people were constantly falling on gear at high loads.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 21, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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The intrigue over yonder certainly escalated. An outraged Alien fan and is discovered to have an IP address identical to that of the owner/inventor's wife.
I'm starting to feel like I'm in an abusive relationship w/ my Aliens that I just can't seem to leave.
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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May 22, 2009 - 12:11am PT
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Hahahahaha... People are going to start wondering about all those bruises.
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 22, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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WheneverI find myself in Josh I always find time to fondle Locker's, popped head...
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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May 22, 2009 - 04:54am PT
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If all this is true, its probably the worst public relations nightmare for any climbing company.
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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May 22, 2009 - 09:59am PT
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Hey guys,
Sorry for the confusion but there was a miscommunication in the IP info I got from the other user. I've posted retractions and explanations over on RC and I do not have IP confirmation that the user "Sogdiana" is actually Nadia@CCH.
While her posts are highly suspicious and came from an IP from the same provider as Nadia, I do not have absolute proof that they are one in the same.
My deepest apologies for the confusion.
-aric.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 22, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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I just love the story line, though. Redneck flunkie hits the big time with Faliens, picks out Russian mail order bride, ignores phone ringing off hook for 5 yrs straight.
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Impaler
Trad climber
Munich
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May 22, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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I already tested the only alien that I own (found at the base of ElCap) by taking a nice long whipper onto it (-:
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ct
climber
CO
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May 22, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Not exactly new news here. Summary: Aliens work best, yet are fallible.
Caveat Emptor. As always.
Quite telling that the crew on this site just don't care (20 posts in 2 days?) while the other forum's members beat themselves into a lather. Again.
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