Tommy Caldwell - big wall free climbing mutant

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The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Tampa, FL
Topic Author's Original Post - May 13, 2009 - 01:03pm PT
Info on freeing Mescalito:
http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/blog/607/
GDavis

Trad climber
May 13, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
What???? damn
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
May 13, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
Darn, Tommy beat me to it again.
I totaly had this one... Really... ;)

Nice work Tommy

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 13, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooo!

I want to nail that sh#t up, no free climbing til I've done it.
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
May 13, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
Yeah tommy is not only a great climber but he is a great guy too... I do hope however that this project doesn't turn into a bolt fest... but others seem to do a lot more of this kind of bolting than he does... What was done on the Dihedral was not good... BTW it was done by earlier parties not TC... Good luck Tommy you are the man!!
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
May 13, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
Wow...nice photos and wild looking climbing.

what was this wall first called? the End All Wall...

seems a fitting name... now
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
May 13, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
i'm belaying in those photos. i can tell you that i have never seen anyone so fearless about taking falls 2000 feet up... except maybe ammon. Tommy probably tried that dyno 15 times and each time took a nice whipper 1500 feet off the deck. he also took a few other 20-30 footers. he goes for it! i wish i was that fearless on el cap. truth is i am terrified of falling up there and have taken less falls in my life than tommy takes in an hour working on those futuristic free lines!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Redlands
May 13, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
There's a short video clip on one of those recent flicks showing him working on that corner pitch. They just label it "project", but I'm 99% that it's that pitch. It's either on Dosage IV or the bonus footage Tommy Big Wall thing on one of those Mortimer films.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 13, 2009 - 06:06pm PT
wow!
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 13, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
when a bad-ass like Chris Mac talks about a another bad-ass like that, you know something is up...
Michael Hjorth

Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
May 13, 2009 - 06:22pm PT
Everything at that level is somewhat incomprehensible. But as I vividly remember my silent weeping in 1994 over the bend and spaced out rivets on p. 15 - my mind boggles.

I cut the Caldwell photos out as comparison with shots from this my first Valley route:

Caldwell on p6(?):

Me on p6:

Caldwell clipping before dynoing on p15(?):

Me hanging deadstill - and crying - on p15:

Looking forward to the film!

Michael
Matt

Trad climber
primordial soup
May 13, 2009 - 06:45pm PT
string cheese burritos- that's just wrong!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
May 13, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
Has he actually sent the route? Or is this preliminary hype? If he hasn't done the route free it seems a little early to advertise it....

I was told he added a bunch of bolts to unreapeted A5 pitches on Adrift.
BrentA

Gym climber
Roca Rojo
May 13, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
A5 pitches on adrift (snicker)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 13, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
Amazing!
dirhk

Trad climber
May 13, 2009 - 07:46pm PT
TC should be able to add bolts to whatever he wants because free climbing is so way more bad ass than aid climbing. Aid climbers complaining about the added bolts is like puny white kids calling pro boxers weak because they use gloves.
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
May 13, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
Dirhk... anywhere they want? Every 5 ft and next to usable cracks? I know what you are saying bro... but that it can be way over done was my point... However I have great regard for TC and know he will keep it limited to the minimum.
dirhk

Trad climber
May 13, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
Everywhere HE wants. Which I doubt is feet from good pro.

Cheers
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
May 13, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
"Thumb undercling."

Now how many of us are going to be seeing little nubbins next time we go out and think "Hell, if it works for TC, maybe it'll work forrr-orrr--rrrrr meeeeeeeee......(whip)."
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
May 13, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
you can not bullshit physics, but some special types seem to do so.






frequently.


Oh, and did he not produce the El Cap article in that badass Alpine aneversary edition?
Full props there also.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 41 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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