royal arches crest jewel linkup 5/09 with the wife

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sneville

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 11, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
Here goes my first supertopo trip report. Enjoy. My wife Jessy and I awake at 5am on saturday and drive to the parking area for royal arches. We decided to do the alternate start under the light of our headlamps and I arrived on the ledge after the first pitch at 6am. So far it seemed like we were the first ones on the route. We stayed roped up and simul climbed up to the start of the fifth pitch passing a party of three euros and did not see anyone else for the rest of the day. Just like the boys who did snake dike We DID NOT SEE ANYONE ELSE. We pitched out some short sections but mostly simul climbed up to the penji. We don't have many pictures because we were trying to move fast but here are the ones we took. I just finished the penji and took my shoes off which worked well walking through the waterfall while linking pitches 9 and 10.

Here is a shot looking down the valley towards the cathedrals.

This is right after the penji and I am placing gear before the step down to the 4th class ledge

Jessy just at the end of the 4th class traverse loving the cold water.

The traversing pitches were wet but no big deal. We simuled up to the rap stations and then did the last wet slab pitch with shoes on. I was able to avoid most of the water by stepping over it and staying low by the old bolt. We were in the forest by 10:30am. The crux of the route came while trying to get to the rim where we had to cross this wet slime slab. Once on top we refilled our water bottles. Jessy still looks happy after 15 pitches and ready for the hike up to north dome.

We found the trail easily and soon we were on the slabs working our way up to north dome


It took us about an hour to get to the base of the climb where we had lunch and began crest jewel at 12pm.

I combined the first two pitches and moved quickly on the perfect rock with great friction. This route is great with awesome views of halfdome.

I think this is the 3rd pitch on supertopo which was the 2nd pitch for us where you traverse the dike and then head straight up.

It got pretty windy right before the 2nd crux pitch but we pushed to the top and we linked the last two pitches with about 10ft of simulclimbing to topout at 4:20pm. So about 9 hours of climbing. Here are some summit shots.


Looking back if we could have jumped in the car at the top of north dome it would have been a great day. But instead it was a good day because the descent worked us both. We tried to find the trail that leads to upper yosemite falls but failed to do so. We began walking down what looked like a climbers trail that turned into a deer trail and then no trail. We were in down mode so we finally made it to the approach slabs and worked our way to the north dome gully trail. We had no problem staying on the trail during the day and we were lucky to be experiencing the north dome gully with the sun still out. If it was night time it could have been a whole different story. We made it back to the car at 8pm. So approx. 14 hours car to car. My wife says she will still climb with me but never do anything that long again. As of today we are still married. She is an awesome partner who does not complain and climbs fast and hard. I am lucky to have her.
Sean
yosguns

climber
San Francisco, CA
May 11, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
You guys rock! Congrats. Fast and furious is my new nickname for you two. Way to go and see you soon. :)
murcy

climber
San Fran Cisco
May 11, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
Sweet.
sneville

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2009 - 12:04am PT
sorry for the delay we had to resize the pictures. It is now complete. Yosguns how was the concert?
Mike.

climber
May 12, 2009 - 12:10am PT
Good show, a two-fer! With the sweetums, no less. Bravo.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
May 12, 2009 - 12:16am PT
Great job on a long day!
Zander
hungry man

Trad climber
around
May 12, 2009 - 12:46am PT
Wow, that's great!

I like the picture of the barefoot guy doing yoga on the traverse.
haa, good job.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 12, 2009 - 12:55am PT
Nice report! Nice linkup! I love the part about going barefoot through the waterslide. thanks
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2009 - 12:55am PT
Nice - thanks for sharing.
The easiest descent is to wait until sometime in June, when Tioga Road is open - stash a car at Porcupine Creek trailhead, which is about 4 miles from the top of North Dome (with a slight uphill grade).
susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
May 12, 2009 - 01:06am PT
Now, that's more like it.

Nice pics, short report, great results!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 12, 2009 - 01:55am PT
But it's such a short approach? How can that be any fun?


;)
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
May 12, 2009 - 07:51am PT
This photo in particular was inspiring, I could just about feel the air:




Good story, good climb. And congratulations on still being married!

She is an awesome partner who does not complain and climbs fast and hard. I am lucky to have her.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
May 12, 2009 - 07:54am PT
now, how cool is that?

I'd get married again, for days of that sort!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
May 12, 2009 - 09:37am PT
NICE!

Thanks for posting!
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
May 12, 2009 - 09:50am PT
Neat! Ed Hartouni and I were going to do that same climb during the facelift in September. No water on the route then...just 107 degree day! (Maybe a slight exaggeration - ha). You TR makes me want to try it all over again!
cowpoke

climber
May 12, 2009 - 10:09am PT
very cool -- thanks for sharing the report!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 12, 2009 - 11:02am PT
Well done and kick-a$$ TR!!!!
rhyang

climber
SJC
May 12, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Nice work !!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
May 12, 2009 - 11:14am PT
Thats a burly day for two fit dudes. That wife is a keeper! Good job.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 12, 2009 - 11:15am PT
great report, nice accomplishment!
I've yet to do the linkup, though the one attempt with Crimpergirl was a great outing even if we didn't do the second part...
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