What were the first few routes on Cookie cliff?


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john hansen

Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 26, 2009 - 10:01pm PT

When was the first route put up on Cookie cliff? What year was it done? And what were the next few ascents?

Would be interesting to hear some early history of this wall.

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 26, 2009 - 10:08pm PT
Apparently the first were Cookie Original and The Cleft, 1958.
[Edit to add (thanks, Steve):] Beverly's Tower, 1959.
Then The Enigma in 1964.
Then several in 1965 - Elevator Shaft, Cookie Center, Twilight Zone.

150. Tennessee Strings FA: Rob Robinson, Cade Lloyd, 1986
151. Coffin Nail FA: Charlie Porter, 1972
152. Banana Dreams FA: Vern Clevenger, 1974
154. Hardd p2 FA: Henry Barber, Ron Kauk, Steve Wunsch, 1975
155. Crack-a-Go-Go FA: Harvey Carter, Pete Pederson, 1967
FP: cleaned by Roger Breedlove
FFA: Pete Livesey, Ron Fawcett, 1974
157. Outer Limits p2 FA: Jim Bridwell, Jim Orey, 1971
158. Satanic Mechanic FA: Dimitri Barton, Pete Takeda, 1989
159. Orangutan Arch FA: Steve Wunsch, John Bragg, 1974
160. Elevator Shaft FA: Jim Bridwell, Phil Bircheff, 1965
161. Cookie Monster FA: Bill Price, 1979
FFA: Kurt Smith, Scott Cosgrove, 1987
162. Cookie Cutter FA: Bill Price, 1979
FFA: Dave Schultz, Ed Barry, 1987
163. Twilight Zone FA: Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks, 1965
164. Chips Ahoy FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 1991
165. Ginger Snap FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 1992
166. America's Cup FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Wiegand, 1985
167. Red Zinger FA: Ray Jardine, Dave Altman, 1979
168. Meat Grinder p1 FA: Royal Robbins, TM Herbert, 1968
169. Meat Grinder FA: Royal Robbins, TM Herbert, 1968
170. Meat Grinder Arete FA: Dave Schultz, 1990
171. Beverly's Tower FA: Gerry Czamanske, Warren Harding, 1959
FFA: Roger Breedlove, Alan Bard, 1973
172. Aftershock FA: Tony Yaniro, Max Jones, 1981
173. Waverly Wafer FA: Jim Bridwell, Barry Bates, Bev Johnson, 1970
174. Butterballs FA: Henry Barber, 1973
175. Wheat Thin FA: Peter Haan, Jim Bridwell, 1971
176. Butterfingers FA: Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones, 1971
177. Ladyfingers FA: John Long, Mike Graham, 1974
178. Cookie - Left FA: Royal Robbins, Loyd Price, 1968
180. Cookie Center FA: Tom Kimbrough, Tom Hargis, Roman Laba, 1965
184. Cookie - Right FA: Royal Robbins, Loyd Price, 1968
185. The Cookie - Original FA: Chuck Pratt, Dick Sykes, 1958
186. The Big Fig FA: Charlie Row, Rob Ramey, 1979
FFA: Dave Schultz?, 1990?
187. Vendetta FA: Loyd Price, Roger Gordon, 1967
FFA: Royal Robbins, Galen Rowell, 1968
188. Infraction FA: Bob Finn, Don Reid, 1977
189. Anathema FA: Barry Bates, 1972
190. The Last in Line FA: Chris Snyder, Ken Ariza, 1988
191. Jardine's Hand FA: Ray Jardine, 1979
192. The Cleft FA: Chuck Pratt, Wally Reed, 1958
FFA: Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks, 1965
194. Catchy FFA: Jim Pettigrew, Jim Bridwell, Mark Klemens, 1971
195. Catchy Corner FA: Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, 1974
196. Pringles FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue McDevitt, 1991
197. Zipperhead FA: Doug McDonald, Pete Takeda, 1989
198. Void arete FA: Chris Falkenstein, 1990s [added]
199. The Void FA: Tom Higgins, 1971
200. Void Continuation FA: Dimitri Barton, Steve Gerberding, 1984
201. The Stigma (The Renegade) p1 FFA: Alan Watts, 1986
202. The Stigma p2-3 FA: Dennis Miller, Brian Birmingham, 1970
203. The Enigma FA: Barry Miller, Ray Barlow, TM Herbert, 1964
204. Ramp of Deception FA: Jim Bridwell, 1971
205. Abstract Corner FA: Jim Bridwell, 1971
206. Escape FA: Barry Miller, Ray Barlow, 9/1964
207. Shortcake FA: Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, 1971
208. The Enema FA: Jim Donini, John Bragg, 1974
209. Ray's Pin Job FA: Kurt Smith, Dave Hatchett, 5/1985
210. Something for Nothing FA: Kurt Smith, Dave Hatchett, 5/1985
211. Gunning for Buddha FA: Ed Barry, Tucker Tech, 1990
212. Terminator - Left FA: Don Reid, 2/1985
213. Terminator - Right FA: Bruce Brossman, Mike Breidenbach, early 1970s

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Mar 26, 2009 - 10:11pm PT

Next question?
john hansen

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 10:20pm PT
Seven Minutes,,,

You got questions,, we got answers.

Thanks Clint, it wasn't climbed earlier? Going back to check your list to see if Cookie original was the lowest grade (easiest)route up the face.

EDIT, after checking I see the list does not show the route ratings.

Hmmm I wonder..
pip the dog

Mountain climber
planet dogboy
Mar 26, 2009 - 10:58pm PT

fook, that is genuinely impressive. how do you do that voodoo that you do? i only wiffed on two (ok - three) of those.

are you writing all this stuff all down? generations behind us will really want to know (if only to settle C4 arguments -- if there still is a C4).

remarkable stuff. Go Dog, Go!


Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 26, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
so, how early was it called the Cookie? and what Was the referent?

Hope somebody knows. Clint?

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
Cookie Center FA and FFA was done by Kimbrough and Tom Hargis. This is the same Tom Hargis currently of Exum Guide fame? Wow! He's been around a lot longer than I thought. Mead's cousin, right?

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 26, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
I thought I read somewhere (here?) that Cookie was a woman.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 26, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
No, Meade's brother.

Separately, Mel(issa), that was funny.
john hansen

Topic Author's Reply - Mar 27, 2009 - 12:08am PT
How much had the face been explored before Pratt did the first climb to the top ?

Any stories from you old timers?

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 27, 2009 - 02:16am PT
I don't understand. Is it funny b/c everyone but me knows?

I asked J...He said It was named after Cookie Calderwood. Can't find the ref.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 27, 2009 - 02:51am PT
Roper mentions Cookie Calderwood in the ST Yosemite Valley Free Climbs book (at page 40). Rich Calderwood, her husband, was responsible, either directly or indirectly, for teaching many of us in Fresno to climb in the 1960's, and yes, Cookie Calderwood was quite attractive.

Pratt was the first one on the cliff but, sadly, I never got any stories from the horse's mouth about it. I'm sure others here know much more.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 27, 2009 - 10:42am PT
You missed the ever popular Beverly's Tower, Gerry Czamanske and Warren Harding, 1959. Ultra stout at 5.4, A-1!

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Mar 27, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
Nope, Beverly's Tower is there (see No. 171 in Clint's post). Now that you mention it, Rich Calderwood had us do that climb as our first aid lead.


Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
Mar 27, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
Riddle me this Batman......when was the FA of P1 of Stigma. I see Pitch 2 and 3 were done in 1970. But how bout P1?

beneath the valley of ultravegans
Mar 27, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
"5.4, A-1"

Is that Californian for the Canadian alpine grading: 5.9, A2?
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Mar 29, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
I am trying to remember Beverly's Tower--I cannot think of where 5.4 would have been: on the ramp at the top to the belay?

Anyway, has anyone done this climb and who can remind me of what the sections are? I remeember a right facing corner (climber facing away from the main wall) with a finger crack and good holds on the left face. (Guide books refer to laybacking, but I only remember stemming and combination climbing.) Then moves into pull into a chimney position, closer to the main wall than the first section. Then the ramp.

Am I remembering anything real?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 29, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
Bev's Tower is a parallel set of nice cracks with an ear/lobe on the outside. Grunt 10a not technical. Some stemming and chimneying involved. The 5.4 is the traverse out to get started, I think. Useful?
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 29, 2009 - 12:47pm PT
Tom Kimbrough is still around. A Ranger, maybe, in the Tetons? And I think he does snow safety around Alta in the winter.

He was still firing so hard around SLC a few years back that the youngsters nicknamed him "the buff geezer."

I'm drawing a blank on Pratt stories of the Cookie, unfortunately. Twilight Zone is another matter of course, the legendary most badass OW FA of the Sixties. but that's been well covered.

At Pratt's memorial in the Tetons, Kimbrough brought down the house with the best line of the evening. He got up and the first words out of his mouth were, "I'm glad he's dead." He quickly explained that Chuck would not have to suffer the gradual decline and dribbling away of his powers in old age.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Mar 29, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
Steve, that sounds so different from what I remember--no grunting. But the bit at the beginning starts to come back--a low angle slab away from the main wall?

Anyone have a picture?
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