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Erik of Oakland
Gym climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2009 - 06:18pm PT
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threshold criteria would include altitude, aesthetics, and prominence. What mountain that is sufficiently high, classy, and prominent is the hardest to climb by its easiest route?
North Palisade? Mount Humphreys?
edit: another important criterion would have to be exposure
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tooth
Mountain climber
Guam
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Those that are closed all summer due to sheep/goats or whatever...
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Mt Clarence King
Easiest route is 5.4
Edit: I have now noted that Clarence King has the East Ridge route, rated 4th class, except for the summit block, which is given 5.4. I climbed this peak via the Regular Route, up the South Ridge & it was fair for the grade, but I had rock shoes for the summit monolith.
I therefore have to say that Thunderbolt's summit block, while more difficult, is not as difficult as Mt. Clarence King. You could do North Pal or T-bolt in a car-to car day, if your fit. It would take Herculean effort & tenacity to do Mt. Clarence King in a 1-day mission. It's more remote & farther from the road.
And let us not forget the Castle Rock Spire, in Sequoia N.P., whose easiest route is 5.9 A2 or 5.11B/C if done free. It may not quite be a mountain but it's the hardest technical summit in the range.
Castle Rock Spire & the Fin. This is not to be confused with Fin Dome, near Mt. Clarence King, which is similar to Matthes Crest, but smaller.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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If you're talking just the summit block itself, Thunderbolt is 5.9.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Clarence King and Brewer look really cool. Someday for sure.
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Gene
climber
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One or more of the Devil's Crags. Remote and kitty litter.
Black Kaweah and neighbors will get your attention as well.
gm
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Lost Arrow Spire 12b
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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LA Spire is a mountain???
Thunderbolt isn't continuous enough at 5.9 is it?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Mt. Whitney. The crux is getting the permit.
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Barbarian
Trad climber
stealth camping and hiding from the man
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The one remaining one that hasn't been climbed...you can't even find that one!
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joebuzz
Trad climber
Truckee, CA.
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Mt Morrison can be fairly psycho.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Out of the 14'ers, it has to be Thunderbolt with N. Pal and Starlight in a close second place tie.
Williamson is a long walk and a short legal window to get to, but the climbing isn't any worse than the friction route descent at Tahquitz.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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1. Starlight
2. T. Bolt
3. North Pal
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
planet dogboy
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with respect, i find the question "Hardest mountain to climb in the Sierra Nevada?" rather off target.
wouldn't "most gorgeous routes in the Sierra" be a better focus?
just a thought...
the Swiss Arete on Mt. Sills pops quick to mind. a gorgeous route on a glorious peak. and if "hard" is especially important to you, solo it. it's just a 5.7 (mostly far less) -- but alone and ropeless there are a few moments when it suddenly seems very big and very exposed indeed. mostly it is just big joy.
fwiw,
^,,^
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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I agree Pip, the Swiss Arête is sweet.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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I remember driving up to Mammoth as a kid and looking at Mt Morrison, thinking one day I would climb it...Well read up on it....It is nick named the Eiger of the Sierras. Suppose to be a loose block party. Anybody want to clean a line for me?
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Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
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Mt. Morrison is a stunning looking peak from the 395 or up closer. But I've read of some scarefests that took place on it and by some very competent people if I remember correctly.
Probably read it right here, but I'm pre-coffee still. :-)
Fletch
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DonC
climber
CA
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Mt Morrison
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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haven't done the north face of morrison, a friend described it as a 16 hr car wreck, but the north ridge is cool class4/5 with some good exposure, a classic norman clyde route, also east face and south summit offer some great ski decents. North ridge right skyline on photo. also some ski lines on the north ridge as well. :)
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