Rap Lurking Fear from Thanksgiving Ledge?

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Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 2, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
I am thinking about soloing my first wall this fall. Either Lurking Fear or Aquarian are both on my list. In researching I have found that hauling from the top out to the East Ledges decent is a pain. Somewhere I have read that rapping Lurking Fear from Thanksgiving Ledge is a good option. Seems like Lurking Fear could have a bit of traffic on it in September? Anyone ever rapped it? Fill me in if you can.

Thanks,

Prod.
tinker b

Gym climber
my mom
Mar 2, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
i didn't rap the route, but my friends did in a snow storm. they said the crux was on pitch 7 (i think) where it traverses. they had to down aid it. because it is way around the corner it shouldn't be too hot in september, and you might beat the crowds of october...but one never knows in yosemite.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:01pm PT
ptpp is an advocate of rapping from TG. maybe search his name or 'Rapping with pigs'

my friend described LF as a slabby grade IV with a thousand feet of mountaineering on top. why cheat yourself of the most character building 1/3 of the route?

and what ever you decide, please don't rape lurking Fear, it's been through enough already.

cheers
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
Wade, My plan would be to leave the pig at Thanksgiving, toping out the heading back down and rapping from there. I was under the impression that the rap route from Thanksgiving ledge was LF?

Prod.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
Sounds like an ugly scene at the Prod family Thanksgiving to me..


r-a-p-p-i-n-g.
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 2, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
RR,

You've got some miles to you, what other routes would you recommend as a decent first solo? My wall experience is minimal, I have done 1 wall, Zodiac, with a mutual pal of ours, Dean H. I would be comfortable soloing up to that level of difficulty.

Prod.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
"I have read that raping Lurking Fear from Thanksgiving Ledge is a good option."

I was mostly ribbing you about 'raping' sorry. I'm a teacher.

Yeah lurking fear is the descent route. I think pete talks about the traversing section. i also heard that it can be rapped with a reasonable swing to avoid the down aiding.

seems like if you make it to TG- you'll be wall fit, lean and strong, you'll be in a work and systems rhythm and the bag will be light enough to jug with on your back -search Tucker Tech-or harness. or failing that, far end haul it-ptpp again.

This is all hearsay and MO. Never been on the route. you'll figure out what's right for you and send, i'm sure. Have Fun.
Shimanilami

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
The hauling on that route is horrid. I'd hate to do it all alone. Why not try something steeper?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
You can link the traverse w/ the pitch before to avoid any down aiding. Watch your ends! Linking them on the way up will simplify your hauling.
BJ

climber
Mar 2, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
From two pitches above TG to the top is a real PITA. That said, I think rapping down Lurking Fear would be a worse PITA. Once you and all you gear is on top of all the climbing, it is just hiking to the east ledges. Stay to the south, and it isn't that bad.

Further more, the hauling in LF becomes difficult above the 13th pitch (Neds bivy), so you could stash all you gear there, and dash for the summit. It seems all rather complicated to just mindlessly carrying a bunch of stuff
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 2, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
i would not recommend it.

 there are a few big pendulums on the raps. its probably impossible to do the pendulums with your bags.

So in those cases:
- you would have to rap without the bag to the next anchor
- anchor the rope, and jug back up to your bags
- rap again with the bags
all that would take a lot of time and effort.

 more importantly, if there is anyone else on the route it will be a big cluster and bummer for them.

i have rapped lurking fear. i just had a light rack because i did the route in a day and I still think it would have been faster and better to do the east ledges.
Mike.

climber
Mar 2, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
Prod, You're totally ripe for Tangerine Trip.

Slogging up the shoulder of EC is a lot of work with a haul bag and a partner. That would just not be a fun route solo camping style compared to the airy experiences on the other side. You'll save yourself so much work and jack up the fun considerably by being there. FWIW.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Mar 2, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
RE: something you mentioned elsewhere...I haven't done it, but it seems to me that the trip probably gets 1/4 of the traffic of LF. Like...There's usually someone on the trip when the weather is good, but there are usually multiple parties on LF. Parties on the Trip are probably less likely to be on their first wall too. Just my observations from the outside. Others who've done both might have better insight.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 2, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
I have rapped Lurking Fear three times with a partner and with pigs, and it's a lot of work. Emphatically concur with Chris Mac.

It is inconceivable to me how anyone could rappel the route if it were wet or snowy - there are three penjis on it, once of which is really hard. You can't do the penjis with a pig. You can't even do it with a hunk of rope dangling off of you - you have to bag the rope, and wear the bag. We also did some tricks where I went down first on a single rope without pigs, did the penji, put the rope through a crab in the anchor and got on it with my Grigri to weight it, then my partner lowered the pigs down, clipped to the tensioned-diagonalled rope with a quickdraw on top of the pig. Clever, eh?

It is not an easy task to rap Lurking Fear - you have to be pretty skilled in a number of areas. It takes a long time, too. If your pig is not crazy-big [like my big wall camping pigs] you would do far better going over the top and down the East Ledges.

But you don't want to solo a route on the SW Face because of the difficulty in hauling - go do something on the steep-overhanging SE Face and you will be a much happier climber.

You've just stated your intention to go solo El Cap on an internet forum, in full view of all your peers. This can be a good thing, but it can also be a bad thing, too. So go make it good, and keep us posted, eh?
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Mar 2, 2009 - 11:45pm PT
"I'll be watching you, every move you make, every claim you stake..."
ECP's

ps listen to PTPP and the others... something else might be better for you...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 3, 2009 - 12:18am PT
> "I'll be watching you, every move you make, every claim you stake..."

"... every cake you bake ... " :-)
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Mar 3, 2009 - 10:29am PT
"every vow you break"...
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 10:44am PT
I am starting to think Tangering Trip or Mescalito? I appriciate the input, and I sure hope you're watching Elcap pics, watching and clicking. Just last night I was checking out your pics of me on Zodiac. Thank you once again.

Prod.
Mike.

climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 10:52am PT
Now yer talking, brother.


poop_tube wanted to climb EC and weasel out over on the short side. He understood in the end that size is the essence of the Big Stone, and he ditched his Zodiac plan for Mesca. I'd say he got full value out of that. He walked up and sent with no fixing (and no grade 6 experience!) The big part is the absolute sh#t, but the Trip, etc are great outings none the less.
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
Mar 3, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
Yah,

Pick something steeper, so you don't get screwed on the hauling. I been up Zodiac, but not the Trip. It seems that the Trip might be your best option.

I have been up Lurking Fear and the hauling on the upper part of the route after pitch 12 is not pretty. As a soloist you'll want the bags in the air.

Cheers,

Doug
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