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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2009 - 02:21am PT
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I bootied one of these- the newer squarish, yet stylishly curved type.
I took it to the gym to try it out, and was immediately impressed with how badly it is designed.
The curved shape seems to be designed to jam the rope as you feed it out,
And with the unit hanging from a gear loop, that same curve hung up on things like a hook, even just walking around the gym.
Maybe it wasn't dropped, but chucked in frustration.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Feb 10, 2009 - 05:45am PT
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which belay device are you talking about? The B-52?
Maybe you should just boulder?! =)
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Danielle Winters
Trad climber
Alaska
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Feb 10, 2009 - 06:57am PT
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The B52 has always been a good belay device for me. In general Trango products are great.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Feb 10, 2009 - 08:13am PT
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For real, Multi pitch trad, climbing I am not a fan of auto locking belay pieces as you also need to bring an extra rappel piece. Plus they are too heavy. That being said I do have both a grigri and a Trango Cinch that we use at our ice tower for top roping. I find that both work fine but take some time to master. The cinch is lighter that the Grigri.
So in answer I do not think the Cinch is a piece of sh#t for gym or sport climbing.
This is the cinch with instructions of it’s propor use.….
http://www.trango.com/pdfs/CinchInstructions.pdf
Has anyone used the cinch for aid climbs, as a back up when cleaning? How does it compare to the Grigri?
Also not sure if you know or care, but Mal who posts on this forum owns Trango. Maybe go a little easy on the review or at least know the product name, and it’s proper use, prior to writing a review.
Prod.
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couchmaster
climber
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Feb 10, 2009 - 08:22am PT
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You might be more specific as Trango makes (at least) 4 belay devices. I suspect you mean the B-52 but do you mean a Jaws? Looks like this:
I haven't used one of those yet. Love the Cinch and the B-52 and the Trango Pyramid (formerly Lowe) Tuber are fine.Maybe you can figure this out for yourself, Trango makes some good products.
Belay devices from Trango:
Jay Wood said :I bootied one of these- the newer squarish, yet stylishly curved type. I took it to the gym to try it out, and was immediately impressed with how badly it is designed.
The curved shape seems to be designed to jam the rope as you feed it out, and with the unit hanging from a gear loop, that same curve hung up on things like a hook, even just walking around the gym. Maybe it wasn't dropped, but chucked in frustration.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 10, 2009 - 10:58am PT
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Jay, I think the device you're talking about is the B52. It's my favorite and I take no offense that you hate it. The way I figure it, belay devices are like underwear. I like boxers and you like briefs. No worries but don't try to make me wear briefs or belay with something I don't like.
BTW, get outside with the B 52 and try it on a real rope. They never have worked well on the crunchy old gym ropes.
Climb safe,
Mal
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Feb 10, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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"BTW, get outside with the B 52 and try it on a real rope. They never have worked well on the crunchy old gym ropes"
Probably unintentional, but... Ouch!
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Feb 10, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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"Has anyone used the cinch for aid climbs, as a back up when cleaning? How does it compare to the Grigri?"
The cinch doesn't work well with the fat ropes that climbers typically use for big wall/aid climbs. I have used the cinch for "aid pitches" such as half dome in a day. Since we were climbing with a skinny lead, I thought it worked better than a grigri.
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2009 - 12:16pm PT
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The last one pictured.
I've used the pyramid one for years, and am very happy with it- nothing against Trango in general.
It didn't seem to matter between funky old rope, and nice, new ones.
Over time, I seem to be more bothered by design flaws (as I see them) in manufactured stuff. That may be a mental design flaw in my head.
Edit- I tried it for underwear, but didn't like that either.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 10, 2009 - 12:30pm PT
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Well handled Mal.
Strikes me as poor form to booty a piece of gear and then malign it online with a harsh acronym after such a poorly staged and brief trial.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Feb 10, 2009 - 01:06pm PT
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There is one thing about the B-52 I don't like.
If you are belaying with the "palms down" method, and your brake hand gets close to the device, it can pinch that bit of skin between your thumb and forefinger really badly.
I once saw a person get their skin pinched in there and totally let go with both hands, because of the shock/pain. Their partner was wheeled away on a backboard.
Just becareful about that. Other devices seem to be less prone to pinching.
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