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WBraun
climber
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Jun 14, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
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Whew! I'd never want to solo that thing. Kudos to you Heinz.
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Khun Duen Baad
climber
Retirement
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Jun 14, 2005 - 10:17pm PT
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Hats off to the Bavarian apes. I think we can crawl back into our caves now and cry ourselves to sleep. You think he chilled out at the lip and fired the camera with his remote and self timer?
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 14, 2005 - 10:21pm PT
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A little history if you care?
Now when Kauk was trying that first ascent of Tales of Power we would always walk around and scramble to the base. Ground up was the thought back then as we didn’t even think or know about rappelling down there.
So I belay Ron a couple of times during his attempts. When the day he did it I didn’t go and I believe it was Meyers that went that day. Kauk gets to the top of Tales of Power when he sees Separate Reality for the first time ever.
He was blown away at the sight of this big ass roof above him. That night after coming back to C4 he was so excited.
The rest is history ……
Did Wolfgang solo it before or after the lip fell off during one winter, I forget?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 15, 2005 - 01:54am PT
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Bo'zhe moi!
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Gnat
climber
Smell A
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Jun 15, 2005 - 02:04pm PT
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Certainly an inspirational solo. Also, thanks for the historical background Werner.
The only sad thing to see was all the "tick" marks under the roof (not likely from Zak).
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Khun Duen Baad
climber
Retirement
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Jun 15, 2005 - 02:48pm PT
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Well, to be honest and fair, the tick marks are in-situ at this point (because they don't get rained on and Euros flock to the route when they go to the Ditch) but The Wizard would have in all likelyhood rehersed the moves, confirmed the ticks, and replaced/refreshed them.
I find the ticks to be questionable style to place and use (but you are free to climb in whatever style you want), and to be completely offensive ethics to leave behind when you're done. You're negating the onsight attempt for those who follow and bringing them down to your level. You didn't have any problem haning around on a rope to put them there, you should do the same to clean it when you're done. For exapmle, the Huber's left tick marks and color-coded tape to indicate the gear and placements all over El Nino which would have largely negated Leo's onsight attempt.
Cosmic Debris had the same sh#t all over it the first time I ever walked up there. It was ticked to show you which hand to use, plus with some contrived system of circles, dots, and triangles that presumably told you everything else you wanted to know.
You'll note Separate Reality wasn't ticked in 1986, back in the days when men were men...
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 15, 2005 - 03:24pm PT
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That's total bullcrap!
It's almost enough to make you want to retire from climbing all together, and then just give all your gear away and walk the Earth, not unlike Qui Chang Cain...
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wildone
Social climber
the little ditch
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Jun 15, 2005 - 05:27pm PT
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One time I was at manure pile after work, cragging, almost sunset, and a certain awesome climber, a woman, rolls up with heinz. She introduces me to him, I think I stammered something out (LOVED reading about Joe Simpson's rescue from the Eiger by Heinz in simpson's book, "The Beckoning Silence") and they were off, she was soloing some rad multipitch (nutcracker), and he was filming with some huge moviecamera, freesoloing with two feet and a hand, by feel, the whole time glued to the viewfinder. I think he was on a 5.8 or a 5.9.
I was very impressed. then I went home and played with myself (a alot). and then again. and then over again. and then I was tired. so I went to bed and dreamed about heinz.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Jun 15, 2005 - 08:07pm PT
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damn, this guy's gotta have more footage than perlman, anyone know if he's ever planning on putting a video out in this country?
seems like i've heard about him filming caldwell on Dihedral, davis on free rider, hubers on zodiac, c'mon, americans like watching yosemite climbing too
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lad
Trad climber
near Fresno, CA
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Jun 15, 2005 - 11:49pm PT
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Met and climbed on/off with Wolfgang and others in Frankenjura -spent many days/months in Erlangen back in the 80's.. Heinz coming back to freesolo Separate Reality does honor Wolfgang - congrats Heinz for freeing your mind and celebrating life.
prost...
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Blight
Social climber
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Jun 17, 2005 - 05:51am PT
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Khun Duen Baad said: "whine! whine! horrid euros trash all our routes and they all have bad ethics and none of their climbs count because they're all cheaters! whine! whine!"
Shut
up
you
slack
jawed
little
pansy.
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Khun Duen Baad
climber
Retirement
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Jun 17, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
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Blight,
It's always nice to see that the literacy rate of climbers hasn't increased over the years.
Actually, whilst Heinz's ascent, in whatever style he chooses, is proud it is hardly a jaw-dropper; it is a 20-year-old achievement. However, you'll note my first response was a "hats off" one, this still stands.
I wasn't whining about anything, I never said it "didn't count", I was calling a spade a spade. You all can trash climbing and the outdoors how ever you want, I won't be participating in it.
I get called a lot of things, all of which mean absouletly NOTHING to me, but "pansy" isn't usually one of them; I'm capable of living up to my own standards, and if I can't, I don't. Hence my location listed as "retirement". Since you're the one calling somebody a pansy would you care to marvel us with some of your high-style solo achievements? If you're meek about posting them here, as I am, you can feel free to mail them to me privately at singersmith@yahoo.com. I pledge to bow down accordingly.
If anybody deserves some flak about their ascent, it's Heinz. "Ahhh Ceedar, maybe you need a T-shirt, says "I used to have ze record on ze Shield" HAHAHA!!!. Maybe you can shake zeir hands on ze summit and I will take ze picture, maybe you can carry a rope for me HAHAHA!!"
I'm led to believe you like tick marks all over your routes, how bold.
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thebleeder
climber
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Jun 17, 2005 - 06:08pm PT
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singer you big pansy just shut up and let blight get rad on the interweb.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jun 17, 2005 - 06:20pm PT
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This guy is in his late 40's and climbing this hard. That alone is inspiring.
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Khun Duen Baad
climber
Retirement
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Jun 17, 2005 - 07:02pm PT
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I'll pipe right down if the Bleeder says so; you're by far the boldest soloist I know. Nobody else pushes their limits like you do. It always chills my bones to see you shaking your way down some chossy rap route.
Malabarista, I never said or implied that Heinz's ascent wasn't inspiring. In fact, I believe his ascent is just that: his. It's not mine, it's not yours, it's not anybody's but his and that's what soloing is supposed to be about. It's not supposed to be about pictures, spray, or inspriation for anybody but you. I'm just expressing my opinion and the style that I do or don't choose to climb in (mostly don't), I'm not saying that anyone should do anything different than they want to except for taking a moment to clean their tick marks when they are done..
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 20, 2014 - 06:41am PT
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Truly a "Separate Reality".....
The photographer looks like they hit the exact spot Jardine was shot for that Mountain Magazine cover. Wonder if the photog considered what a failure would entail like I just did. Brrr.
Hmmm, memory says same, picture says not same for Jardine:
$1.60 for a magazine:-) Heh
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Bad Climber
climber
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Nov 20, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
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Great vid. Did they set a small, remote camera in the corner, or did Zak solo it twice for the different perspectives?
My hands are still sweating.
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