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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 25, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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It was a bright June day. Bob Boyle and I lay on our backs munching on tuna sandwiches, contemplating our plan of attack on the spire which rose sixty feet above our heads.
We had been told by our climbing friends that Headstone Rock could only be climbed by a series of bolts. We had made a reconnaissance a week before and had to agree that the summit block was void of cracks, holds or even the usual lichen which carry us up some of the harder Sierra peaks.
We had our usual desert climbing equipment including heavy cords, light cotton shirts, lug sole climbing boots, and wide brim hats. In our packs was an ample supply of hardware, tennis shoes, water and food, sling rope, camera, and 240 feet of nylon climbing rope.
Not caring for the work in placing a bolt ladder on a hot summer day, we had purchased 600' of twine. People had told us that such a throw was not likely. This made us more determined to do so.
Choosing the shaded side of the rock in the late afternoon, we began our ascent. On our first heave the little ball of string unravelled itself across the narrow summit. The rope was next pulled over the top and secured to a bolt on the other side.
Being in good condition after weeks of climbing in Zion and Yosemite, we were able to climb the rope with the aid of a safety line. Happy with our success, we spent an hour on the top taking pictures and enjoying the beautiful desert which lay below.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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"In our packs was an ample supply of hardware, tennis shoes, water and food, sling rope, camera, and 240 feet of nylon climbing rope."
hint hint nudge nudge
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Jan 25, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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That was one hell of a throw.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 25, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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So Cool!
Sent me running for the oldest JT guide I have, to learn that -- in an eerie echo of the Lost Arrow a decade before -- this was the first day people set foot on top of Headstone.
The climbing FA, up that beautiful and exposed SW corner was led two years later by Mark Powell.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 25, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
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Didn't someone (Largo? Fish?) throw a baseball or something over Intersection Rock?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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Headstone Rock was originally called Balanced Rock by Powell but the name didn't stick come guidebook time.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Jan 25, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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Funny how that happens, power to the press-
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 08:24pm PT
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My first ever roped climb in Jtree was the 5.6 route on Headstone.
I had started climbing w/ ropes fairly recently, did a few 5.9 leads on hexes at Mission Gorge near San Diego. The same week I did Headstone I scampered up a 5.10b lead at Jtree later that same week.
And yet, I was quaking in my boots following 5.6 ! I just wasn't used to the instant exposure yet, and the buffeting wind was unsettling.
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Chaz
Trad climber
Boss Angeles
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Jan 25, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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"Didn't someone (Largo? Fish?) throw a baseball or something over Intersection Rock?"
That was one hell of a throw.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 25, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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Found it. Quote from Russ: "As for the fungos, baseballs, and Largo.... I remember Largo having me try to throw a baseball over Intersection Rock in JT.... mission accomplished, but PDH for sure. Need a pretty big hose to pull it off."
In the climbing myths, golf and El Capitan thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=206908
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