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Erik of Oakland
Gym climber
Oakland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 3, 2009 - 05:48pm PT
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anyone have a preference here? thinking about getting a set of four Dyneema, but have personally only used the old nylon ones
also: has anyone used the two new smallest tricams (white and black)?
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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I have both nylon and dyneema ones, and have to say I prefer the nylon. But it could just be due to loving the SCREAMING PINK!!!!!! of the nylon ones. The dyneema pink is just too mellow (and too close to the red for my taste, which makes it hard for me to tell which is which at a glance).
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Captain...or Skully
Trad climber
North of the Owyhees
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I really like the little whitey, there, Erik......no offense.
;-)
in nylon, thanks very much......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dyneema seems to be similar to Kevlar and may be more prone to, for lack of a better phrase, work hardening at the metallic contact point. Weight savings is not really an issue with respect to conventional webbing, so why not choose that option. Dyneema likely has greater UV deterioration and hence shorter service life as another consideration.
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Kinda similar in that they're both high tech fibers, but not really all that similar otherwise. I'm just being picky though, so don't mind me.... I've been working with various types of tech cord lately and have it on the brain. :-)
Puget Sound Rope has a good comparison here: http://www.psrope.com/ropeproperties.aspx
HMPE (PlasmaŽ, SpectraŽ, DyneemaŽ) - High-modulus polyethylene fibers produced by gel-spinning ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE)
* Highest strength-to-weight ratio of any fiber
* Highest abrasion resistance of any fiber
* Excellent dynamic toughness
* Very low elongation (3% - 5%)
* Excellent flex fatigue resistance
* Low resistance to heat
* Susceptible to creep
LCP (VectranŽ) - High-modulus fibers produced by melt-spinning from thermotropic liquid crystalline aromatic polyester.
* Excellent strength-to-weight ratio
* Zero creep
* Excellent dynamic toughness
* Excellent flex fatigue resistance
* Good abrasion resistance
* High resistance to heat(melting point of 625°F)
* Highest strength-to-weight ratio of any fiber
ARAMID (KevlarŽ, TwaronŽ) - A manufactured high-modulus fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic aromatic polyamide in which at least 5% of the amide linkages are attached directly to aromatic rings.
* Excellent strength-to-weight ratio
* Highest resistance to heat of any fiber(chars at 800°F)
* Negligible creep
* Poor abrasion resistance
* Susceptible to axial compression fatigue
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Why is there still Dyneema?
-must be good for something, I guess.
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| Messages 1 - 7 of total 7 in this topic |
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