Anybody Still Get Insomnia?


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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 21, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
Outside the snow is piling up and all is frozen.....But long ago, in an area not far away, a brave Stonemaster did battle with the Affliction upon the sunny granite......From Climbing Nov/Dec 1973. Make you wake up in a cold sweat once the jams get bad for Tobin!


Dec 21, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
Truly bad*ss. In a 2" swami, no less.

RIP, Tobin.

Thanks for the great post, Steve!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 21, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
What a loss. Tobin was so cool.

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 21, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
That article insinuates that I did the first free on Insomnia. Not true. Jim Ericson beat us to it. We got the 2nd.


Social climber
Dec 21, 2008 - 06:56pm PT
hey there say.... i did not know who he was, until another kind supertopo guy, shared a small bit about tobin...

thanks for the nice share...

say--i am watching a medium sized "near adult size" blizzard outside--been there all day... it is nice to get to read your post now---i will keep this memory, and think on it, whenever a blizzard comes round again...

and--i mean that kindly... i also made a necklace, and earlier had the grandkid-gals over... also missed work, and one gal is most likely mad at me--but i could not drive through that...

you see----you have given me another treasure, for to cherish today... i will now soon learn more about this rock-climbing man....

thank you so very much for sharing... i never knew there was magazine (edit: oops, ok--it see, it is AN ARTICLE on a named rock) (not a magazine)


say----if anyone can, please post MORE about his man, so i can learn from you-all as well...
god bless...

Dec 21, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
Yeah,As good-a pitch as you can find any where.Some say the best in SoCal. (10.d)? old school 10.d


Trad climber
Dec 21, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
Check out the big knob above the guy in the butt bag, beginning of the left slanting hands. I watched a guy years ago hammer this thing off, I have always wondered why this is never discussed.

Dec 22, 2008 - 01:22am PT
Sewellymon- I assume you mean Yaniro?

Can anybody else corroborate this? If it's true that there was little controversy about that rock alteration, it's an interesting point in time of the evolution of attitudes towards such techniques. Not trying to be judgemental, but if that were to have happened recently on the SFHD, that thread would double in size.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 22, 2008 - 01:32am PT
sent that rig in '76, and those photos were much on my mind.

Mountain climber
San Diego
Dec 22, 2008 - 11:22am PT
It was articles like this that inspired and got me into climbing (the movie "Solo" also). I never personally knew Tobin. Plenty of Supertopians here that did. Sure would have liked too. Way ahead of his time. And he could really push it. Seemed he was good at everything; he was a well rounded climber.

Good attitude about life. I recall reading at one time he was getting into ministry in his own way and teaching bible study classes. The 70s were a water shed and a important time in the Jesus movement. Very good music also: Larry Norman, Mustard Seed Faith, Oden Fong, Keith Green to name a few . . .

I recall someone saying in another distant thread that someone got Tobin's diary after the tragic accident in Canada.

Sure would like to know, and if appropriate see what he wrote on his last climb.

Great article. Life was so much simpler it seemed.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2008 - 11:44am PT
I just have to get my foot on the bump........

Dec 29, 2008 - 11:54am PT
I think that its interesting that it was commonly done in two pitches. Does it make it harder now that there isn't any fixed hexes?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
What, some scoundrel chopped the---------bump!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 27, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
My good friend AJ was asking me recently if I remembered what had happened to THE knob, as I had done it before and after. I could not remember, but he thought Tony may have been responsible for it's demise.
I hope not, what a stupid and arrogant thing to have done.

ps. It wasn't the one above Tob in the buttbag, it was the one on the traverse. It did offer a welcomed rest on that section. It isn't shown in any of these shots.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
Dan knew Tobin. Just curious. Was a biography ever done on his short but filled to the brim (in some respects) life ? Would really like to know .... lrl

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 12:26am PT
Not very many climbing sequence shots in the mags back in those days! This one was memorable.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 29, 2009 - 12:45am PT
Klimmer, thanks for yo post. LrL

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:05am PT
Excellent, love those EB's they were the best
thing going. I also had a pair of PA's well,
still have them actually. Plus the old classic
wall boots, low ankle, steel shank, vibram sole
am I getting warmer. Packed away in a box. Better
snap a photo. They were probably one of the first
wall boots designed for some free climbing with
a rand.

Insommnia, check, better try and turn in! Sorry rambling,
but I do love the old gear!

Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Jan 30, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
Leavitt and Yaniro: Lap running knob chopsters.
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